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Permanently Disable Stop/Start


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@numskull

photo i made in the morning, all were done month+ ago

 

steps on my previous MY16:

1. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485940-memory-module-for-start-stop-button/?do=findComment&comment=5632305

2. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485940-memory-module-for-start-stop-button/?do=findComment&comment=5632321

3. then pushed buttons from bottom

 

on my current MY23 i weren't able repeat #2, black panel sits extremely tight,

used then alternative method:

20230411_080452_25p.jpg.2cc71e0b354084330c1efe156fb1fc4f.jpg

 

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I pryed upwards slightly from the bottom, as shown in the pic above, then pryed and lifted from the top, in a similar manner at the top to lift up the entire switch panel.

There was no need for me to remove the gear shift cover.

 

Then again, mine is RHD, so the switch panels r reversed.

 

IMG_12102020_211729_(1080_x_1440_pixel).thumb.jpg.7c1924612bccf724e0c7df607193fceb.jpg

 

1670079187_Screenshot_20210812-1940042.thumb.png.bd6f51670376426fa493cb74ddf34f3e.png

 

Edited by JR RS
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Cheers JR. Which tool did you use to pry and lever the switch unit out? Also, did you move the stop/start button to position 3 too? I ask as it looks like the cancellation module is connected to the centre switch?

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5 hours ago, numskull said:

Cheers JR. Which tool did you use to pry and lever the switch unit out? Also, did you move the stop/start button to position 3 too? I ask as it looks like the cancellation module is connected to the centre switch?

 

I used essentially used the same tool as that shown in @MartiniB pic.

 

With the switch module - that centre wiring loom is for the entire switch module.  In my case, it's the wiring loom for Start/Stop, Driving Mode and Traction control buttons.

There is no need to swap the individual button positions.

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Thanks guys. I finally got the switch unit out and plugged in the gizmo, but I could not get the switch unit back in. I tried pushing the block connector at the car end, which was now connected to the gizmo, back into the hole into which the switch unit sits, but it wasn’t having any of it so, not wishing to break anything, I gave up and removed the unit, so Martini and JR, can you tell me how you guys succeeded where I abysmally failed? 😢

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again not sure if this is a RHD vs LDH thing, but i was able push the connector block bit back down the rabbit hole - there was enough room, just. 

Edited by JR RS
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Thanks MartiniB.
Can you clarify what the diagram shows? Is the black line the area under the switch assembly, or is it the gap under this, where the original cable appears?

 

The problem I found was, the large PCB in the shrink sleeving is too thick to stay in the area where switch assembly fits - if it’s there, the switch assembly won’t slot into place - and it’s also too large to go through the hole where the original cable appears. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

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