So the wife has kindly pointed out that her 16 plate is beginning to rust on the section before where the wheels attach (not sure what its called), any idea''s how to get rid of the rust.

 

She has a good point if these bits are rusting what else is?

 

 

That's the front disc 

Never seen a car that has  not rust there 

 

Only time they don't rust is in the showroom 

 

 

Edited 31 July, 20178 yr by malcster

Yep - as @malcster says. 

Cast iron/steel parts will just show a layer of oxidation (which is what rust is).

You'll see it there, and on some suspension parts. Castings are just like that. They don't rust through unless you have a hundred years or so to spare. It's not like sheet metal rusting. That will rust through OK.

If you leave the car idle for a couple of days, you'll usually see a light rust/oxidation layer on the brake discs too.

Nothing to worry about. It's a feature !

just been to look at my mk2 that is rusted completely at disc area but surface area is slightly smaller, not as noticeable, will put her mind at rest tonight, thanks folks!

Mmmmm...............Race Blue Valve Caps.

3 hours ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

Mmmmm...............Race Blue Valve Caps.

 

You mean "hope that some anti seize grease has but put on there"  - as in if not, and if that car gets its tyre pressure checked as is "normal" (once every 6 months), then in a few years time, these valves will be stuck on.

 

Rusting "top hats" on brake discs, seems like the protective coating that is used nowadays on discs in lieu of that oily stuff, works quite well in keeping these discs looking better after a couple of years. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo at 14K miles does not have any nasty rusty stuff showing - yet.

 

15 hours ago, rum4mo said:

 

You mean "hope that some anti seize grease has but put on there"  - as in if not, and if that car gets its tyre pressure checked as is "normal" (once every 6 months), then in a few years time, these valves will be stuck on.

 

Rusting "top hats" on brake discs, seems like the protective coating that is used nowadays on discs in lieu of that oily stuff, works quite well in keeping these discs looking better after a couple of years. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo at 14K miles does not have any nasty rusty stuff showing - yet.

 

yeah matches the rallye green one on mine, have squirted all the caps with some T Sil found at work https://www.randjbuildershardware.co.uk/buy/t-sil-release-agent_1066.htm

 

my green ones were solid after 2 weeks! 

 

Edited 1 August, 20178 yr by Kobayashi

15 hours ago, rum4mo said:

 

You mean "hope that some anti seize grease has but put on there"  - as in if not, and if that car gets its tyre pressure checked as is "normal" (once every 6 months), then in a few years time, these valves will be stuck on.

 

Rusting "top hats" on brake discs, seems like the protective coating that is used nowadays on discs in lieu of that oily stuff, works quite well in keeping these discs looking better after a couple of years. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo at 14K miles does not have any nasty rusty stuff showing - yet.

 The distance on the 'top hat section ' MK3 is double the Mk2, so it is annoying you can see rust all over it, for now it can go in the list of 'things i will get round too eventually' next service is not till Sep 2018 so it will have to wait till then, might stick some brembo discs & pads on

 

Edited 1 August, 20178 yr by Kobayashi

Good that you are actively doing something to avoid these valve caps seizing, I think that it was "Tech1e" on this forum that was warning about that issue with aftermarket alloy valve caps - he had real working experience of having to destroy some during servicing, in theory the anodising should protect the inner surface, but in reality it will be of crap quality and the action of screwing on/off even onto to brass valve bodies will break through the thin layer and corrosion will start.

 

I've noticed that good aftermarket discs, and I'm including Pagid ones from ECP, do keep their "looks" longer than factory original in the case of VW and SEAT, I can't comment for Skoda, and the working surface also stays free of rusting for longer, both of which suit me!

 

The rear discs on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS SEL are looking a bit sad, swept area is dull grey and heavily ridged at 14K miles, I have cleaned things up prior to it going in for its "year 2"  oil/filter and some more then tyre kicking session that "could take 2.5 hours" - so they will probably not issue any comments on the brakes.

 

Edit:- maybe for anyone trying to keep their car looking like new is the fact that there does not seem to be anywhere seliing a grey matt/satin finish paint to tidy that up!  I know that Hammerite etc provide silver, but that is grey not silver, maybe a job for me to trial mix some Hammerite silver with a touch of Hammerite satin black - I know Hammerite say you should never do that as they can't say exactly if the same "stuff" is used in all the colours, but I've done that with smooth blue and smooth black to protect the jacking areas on my S4, and it worked okay, pity the remainder I mixed is solid in a "sealed" glass container though!

Edited 1 August, 20178 yr by rum4mo

You are not looking very hard if you can not find suitable paint or protective finishes at a Motor Factor or Agricultural Supplies / Ironmonger etc.

26 minutes ago, Awayoffski said:

You are not looking very hard if you can not find suitable paint or protective finishes at a Motor Factor or Agricultural Supplies / Ironmonger etc.

so rust remover, wire bush, protective finish or paint the top hat ( easier with wheels off) so that's £50 in Halfords then

My Yeti suffers with this and the "open" design of the alloy wheels renders the rust highly visible.

 

I repainted mine with silver Hammerite (smooth), after a rub down with a wire brush. Didn't bother with a rust treatment, given the parts are finished/cast quite roughly in the first place.

 

My efforts below:

Edited 1 August, 20178 yr by pinkpanther
added photo

Just a thought i have some spare standard MK2 VRS Discs & Pads, would these fit the MK3 Monte if i cleaned them up? Looking at the pad style i dont think the pads will, but the discs might?

 

Really dont want to take wheels off too treat, So need a second set, pre-treat, paint top hat etc.. then swap with oem set between services, ideally using the MK2 OEM discs.?

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 1 August, 20178 yr by Kobayashi

3 hours ago, Awayoffski said:

You are not looking very hard if you can not find suitable paint or protective finishes at a Motor Factor or Agricultural Supplies / Ironmonger etc.

 

I think it is more my unrealistic obsession with sorting it while keeping it same as it was out of factory that is causing me problems, I did track down and use a matt(ish) finish grey under body treatment spray can, which I used a couple of times on my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza, but rust has beaten me, second time I really hammered it with a rotary wire brush followed by an anti rust treatment then the grey under body spray paint, but still rust coming through, so buggar that!

Google.  Cold Zinc  or Steel Conduit Spray or Galvanising Spray     or the likes.

 

Remove rust, be sure to mask off what you do not want sprayed, do that carefully.   then the job is an easy one.

I do have an old spray can of Cold Zinc, but I don't think that it will want to come out of that can now, it has been in there for far too long - should get binned - just another "must buy" when spotted, for me it was a drum brake, so easy to remove the drum and work on, as said already, a lot of this is down to the holes in the surface of the drum, ideal starting points for the next attack of rust, discs should be easier to get and keep free as they tend to have smoother and hole free "top hat" sections.

All you need to do is remove loose rust and dirt. Then degrease/clean the hubs. With a brush, apply a thin coat of smooth hammerite. Let it dry for 30 mins. Next apply a thicker coat of smoothrite. Don't miss anywhere as if you do you will let in the oxygen that sparks off the rust again. It should last you at least 3 years plus before you need to re-do it. Don't bother with using zinc sprays as unless you have totally removed ALL rust it just doesn't work and it'll rust again quite quickly. And, the zinc needs an overcoat of paint too but the zinc also needs at least 24hrs to set and bond to the surfaces before you overpaint it. If you overpaint it too soon you actually trap moisture and this stops the zinc from properly working, further causing corrosion again.

For best finish if using Hammerite Smooth allow 4 hours between first and 2nd coats and there is greater longevity IME.

Used to use it professionally.

 

As to Spray Galv i have never painted over it.