Felicia OBD fault 00532?

[Beefymilly]

Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone could shed a bit of light/knowledge on this fault code (car is a 1999 Felicia 1.3 lxi)

 

00532, Transmission control module relay-Supply Voltage (B+) Malfunction low battery or bad ground...

 

I tested the battery with a multi meter the other day and it was fine (will check again tomorrow)

 

I also had a peculiar thing happen with the airbag light...

I had the obd reader in with the ignition on (engine not running) just checking codes, when the airbag light came on, it lasted a few seconds then went off this happened a few times, then stayed off?? Any thoughts

 

I know my ignition switch is going as you turn the key and sometimes just get a solenoid click and no go, ( I have another to replace, but thinking of just going for a push button as it will be a lot quicker to install)....

 

Thank you in advance

 

Mike

[nu99et18]

This is what Ross tech brings up with that fault code.

 

[RicardoM]

12 hours ago, Beefymilly said:

I tested the battery with a multi meter the other day and it was fine

This "test" only proved the battery holds well a load of around 1 mA or less.

 

How old is your battery? Your description hints towards a dying battery or a weak charging system.

Edited 25 October, 2017 by RicardoM

[Beefymilly]

Just ran the car up to temperature, check the battery with a multi meter, before startup 12.45, idle 14.1 and 2500rpm 14.2....

Battery looks relatively knew maybe 2 years tops....

 

[Beefymilly]

By "control module" do they mean the ECU?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

[LightRain]

Did you test the battery voltage while cranking (without starting that is)? 

Without loaded readings battery voltage isn't the full picture. Although, probably not your issue, if you're going to test a battery it pays to do it right.

AC voltage leak test may also give a clue if there is a charging issue, this is done from alternator battery wire to ground with the meter in AC mode.

Edited 25 October, 2017 by LightRain

[KenONeill]

@Beefymilly - I'd agree with @RicardoM that your description sounds like a dying battery. Just because "the battery is only 2 years old" does not mean that it doesn't have a bad cell.

[Beefymilly]

Right I'll do another check on the battery same as before (what my local mechanic said)

No ignition no idiot lights

Idiot lights only

Cranking

Idle 

And 3000 rpm

Then I'll do an AC test....

 

I have wiped the fault codes off and will use the car a bit and check to see if they come back.....

I don't mind getting a new battery but if I can save £60 I will.....

 

Most important job is the ignition switch took 6 attempts this morning for it to actually get going..

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

[LightRain]

3 minutes ago, Beefymilly said:

Then I'll do an AC test....

This should be done with as much electrical load as you can manage, so with lights and blowers and so on. Also, hold it around 2000ish.

You should certainly be getting less than a volt AC reading, ideally less than half a volt.

[RicardoM]

5 hours ago, Beefymilly said:

Right I'll do another check on the battery same as before (what my local mechanic said)

I see. You didn't get what we tried to teach you. Now it is strictly between you and your local mechanic.

[Beefymilly]

Oops sorry to hurt your feelings.

 

I spoke to my local mechanic today and that's what he said about checking the battery

It was 'lightrain' ^^^ that mentioned the AC test which I shall be doing!!!

 

Also all you have mentioned is it could be a dying battery.

 

So its not "strictly between me and my local mechanic"

[Beefymilly]

And I do appreciate the input hence me thanking in my post.

[KenONeill]

@Beefymilly - back up at post #1 you said "I know my ignition switch is going as you turn the key and sometimes just get a solenoid click and no go". That is usually diagnostic of a dud battery rather than an ignition switch problem, which is why @RicardoM and I are suggesting testing the battery (free, even if you need a garage or fast fit place to do the deep load test on the understanding that they get the business if you need a new battery) first rather than throwing other parts at the car and hoping.

[Beefymilly]

KenOneill, i was treating the ignition switch as a separate issue, when you turn the key the idiot lights light up, when you turn the key (to initiate the starter) at times you just get a click, turn the ignition off and straight on again it starts up without an issue, it cranks well and is more a symptom of a duff contact/connection/switch after some extensive searching and seeing other people with duff switch's (even only a few months old) I assumed of to be that, I managed to get a new old stock switch for the princely sum of £10. I'll be testing the battery tomorrow (have way too much welding to get done today and that's what pays)

Thanks

Mike

[Beefymilly]

Update on the whole scenario, scrapped the battery, put a higher cranking amps battery on, car ran fine, deleted fault code, code reappeared, deleted again, reappeared again. 

Car is starting to ale slightly, although its only got 40,000 and was serviced every year at Skoda before I got it, 

Has a weird fault were if its running (warmish) you turn engine off then go to restart it takes a while to catch and then when it does, you need to give it a bit of gas as it tries idling very very low..... My old man says it 'hunts' on start up.....

Probably get scrapped soon as I have my eyes on a 4x4 

[RicardoM]

19 hours ago, Beefymilly said:

Probably get scrapped soon as I have my eyes on a 4x4 

Somebody should buy it. Easy to fix with proper skills.