Re map of my MK3 Octavia vrs deisel

[ISQ]

I've got a 2014 mk3 deisel octavia vrs 180bhp 47000 miles,  had it for a year now fancy a bit more poke. So looking at a remap I can get both a superchips or quantum remap at a local dealer both for  £340 a shark remap is looking to be £500. 

Has anyone had their MK3 deisel VRS remapped? Who did you use and have you had any related issues such as over heating or clutch burning out. And is it worth it? 

There are lots of remap posts but none specific as far as I can see that answer my questions. 

Any independent advice would be appreciated.

[Tim1631]

I’ve got a DTUK on mine at the minute. It is awesome. Unfortunately I’m getting rid of the car and DTUK can’t change the software so I can use it on my new car. 

 

Its like a totally different car with DTUK tuining box. Well worth it 

[ISQ]

7 minutes ago, Tim1631 said:

I’ve got a DTUK on mine at the minute. It is awesome. Unfortunately I’m getting rid of the car and DTUK can’t change the software so I can use it on my new car. 

 

Its like a totally different car with DTUK tuining box. Well worth it 

Is that a plus and play box? Any adverse effects since using it

[Tim1631]

7 minutes ago, ISQ said:

Is that a plus and play box? Any adverse effects since using it

 

 

No no none at all. It’s how the car should of come out of the factory. 

[Ads230]

Although mine's a petrol VRS230, I'm similarly booked out for a Stage 1 remap with Shark (although could go to Stage 2 with my mods).

 

Just as someone who's already done the research (although not had the 'experience' yet, so take it as you will) - a Stage 1 should not cause any adverse effects on engine components, as it is more of a linear torque curve adjustment, rather than ragging a tonne more power through the engine. Any issue with 'overheating' would more likely be from a water pump failure (common across Octavia Mk III's, so I'm led to believe) - which could happen anyway on the OEM tune.

 

The base Stage 1 tunes across APR, Revo, Shark etc. seem to be roughly the same for most petrol EA888 motors... but it might be worth your own research (I called a load of suppliers and got the engineers to talk me through it all; including a couple from the same software suppliers). But it's a fairly robust motor anyway, so you're unlikely to get any critical failures of components as a result of a Stage 1

 

I'm not sure what would change with the adjustable ECU boxes, but as I'm a tuning tech n00b I'd personally steer clear of them anyway and let the professionals crack on with it.

 

With a diesel, you're likely to get a fair bit more torque from a Stage 1 tune, as well as potentially increasing your MPG from efficiency improvements. But well worth a chat to a few different companies / suppliers to see what's best for you.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Edit: It might also be worth having an EDT (Engine Decontamination Treatment) service to smooth out the diesel engine before you get it remapped. Number of places run that service now; I've heard it's very beneficial.

Edited 8 November, 2017 by Ads230

[Auric Goldfinger]

1 hour ago, Ads230 said:

Although mine's a petrol VRS230, I'm similarly booked out for a Stage 1 remap with Shark (although could go to Stage 2 with my mods).

 

Just as someone who's already done the research (although not had the 'experience' yet, so take it as you will) - a Stage 1 should not cause any adverse effects on engine components, as it is more of a linear torque curve adjustment, rather than ragging a tonne more power through the engine. Any issue with 'overheating' would more likely be from a water pump failure (common across Octavia Mk III's, so I'm led to believe) - which could happen anyway on the OEM tune.

 

The base Stage 1 tunes across APR, Revo, Shark etc. seem to be roughly the same for most petrol EA888 motors... but it might be worth your own research (I called a load of suppliers and got the engineers to talk me through it all; including a couple from the same software suppliers). But it's a fairly robust motor anyway, so you're unlikely to get any critical failures of components as a result of a Stage 1

 

I'm not sure what would change with the adjustable ECU boxes, but as I'm a tuning tech n00b I'd personally steer clear of them anyway and let the professionals crack on with it.

 

With a diesel, you're likely to get a fair bit more torque from a Stage 1 tune, as well as potentially increasing your MPG from efficiency improvements. But well worth a chat to a few different companies / suppliers to see what's best for you.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Edit: It might also be worth having an EDT (Engine Decontamination Treatment) service to smooth out the diesel engine before you get it remapped. Number of places run that service now; I've heard it's very beneficial.

 

I've been looking on the Shark web site and they don't seem to advertise a remap for a 230, only a 220.  Will they just remap your 230 with a 220 map.  I believe the 230 deliverers the torque slightly different to a 220. I've been looking on other Web Sites and some tuners actually advertise a remap for a 230. 

[ISQ]

1 hour ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

 

I've been looking on the Shark web site and they don't seem to advertise a remap for a 230, only a 220.  Will they just remap your 230 with a 220 map.  I believe the 230 deliverers the torque slightly different to a 220. I've been looking on other Web Sites and some tuners actually advertise a remap for a 230. 

I've noticed the same I think some advertise the actual bhp increase compared to the potential increase. I'm betting on a increase to 220 bhp, 230 sounds too optimistic. All companies only offer a stage 1 remap on diesels, stage 2 are only available on the petrol models.

[JohnnyType2]

+2 for the CRD3+ dtuk box, being able to choose a map as well is interesting. works on the fuel, boost, and cam sensors and has totally transformed my vRS, with added pedal box its like a hot hatch.

[ISQ]

11 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

+2 for the CRD3+ dtuk box, being able to choose a map as well is interesting. works on the fuel, boost, and cam sensors and has totally transformed my vRS, with added pedal box its like a hot hatch.

Looking into plug and play boxes opens a new can of worms, so much more research to do!! And now a pedal box what on earth is one of those? As a none technical person that just wants a bit if fun, it seems a better option to give my car to a garage and collect the beast a few hours later, I'm not sure I would trust myself to set the programmes correctly 

[stever750]

Two choices; a remap (shark or revo), or a 3 channel tuning box from DTUK (crd3) or race chip (Pro). Actually that's 4 choices to keep it simple and save you hours of research. Many owners in briskoda have tried at least one, some more than one if these, and there are few if any negative experiences. 

[JamiePvrs]

If I were you I'd speak to Tim1631 and make him an offer on his DTUK box seeing as he is moving from black pump to green pump! They plug in easily in ten minutes and can be removed when necessary. And from what I hear they transform the car!

[JohnnyType2]

the DTuk box is simple and takes about 15 mins to fit maximum, you have three choices of map. then when you get to know the car you can fine tune it. the pedal box takes even less time to fit. And at the end of it you can take them both with you and have them reflashed for a different/newer model if you are trading up. If anything goes wrong with the map you are back to the garage. if anything goes wrong with the tuning box you just unplug it, plug in the blanking unit and leave it for a dozen minutes and its back to stock.

 

Over the years Ive had remaps on several cars, I currently have a race chip unit in my Kia, CRD3+ was the easiest option for this car and gave me some control over the performance too. No brainer. I should be asking andrew for a commission. 

Edited 8 November, 2017 by JohnnyType2

[stever750]

Talk is through the three main map settings, ie 1,2 and 3. How do they differ? 

 

Do you have a link to fit one? Anything on YouTube? (I could my find one specifically for the crd3) 

 

What do you mean about using a blanking plate after you remove it? Surely you just switch off the engine, unug the box connections, and refit loom per standard?  

[JohnnyType2]

theres a blanking plug that comes with the unit so you dont need to remove the loom if you wish to run stock, just remove the tuning box and replace it with the plug.

 

theres a whole thread on here about it also follows the development and testing by the owners. Your car is identical to mine 14 vRS Diesel 47K. 

 

How they differ is a bit of a mystery, AFAIK map 1 affects fuel pressure, map 2 fuel and boost. and map 3 dials down the fuel pressure a little for more economy? at least that is what was reported by another member on here.

 

bingo but 3+ also fits to the cam sensor right at the front in the middle just under the  fuel rail

 

 

 

Edited 9 November, 2017 by JohnnyType2

[stever750]

Thanks, though I've seen that video. 

 

I've been told that map 2 is max torque at lower engine speed, map 3 at high, and 1 is in between. Dtuk chat bod told me the ideal setting is 1 and 0 for the 184ps engine 

[ISQ]

I'm warming to the plug and play box and the CRD3+ from what I can see is as good as any other box. Does anyone know of any discount codes for dtuk? Or if they do black friday deals

[JohnnyType2]

6 hours ago, stever750 said:

Thanks, though I've seen that video. 

 

I've been told that map 2 is max torque at lower engine speed, map 3 at high, and 1 is in between. Dtuk chat bod told me the ideal setting is 1 and 0 for the 184ps engine 

 

that would make sense. as i said it was what i had been told so it was obviously b0ll0x info 

 

i think i'll change to 1+1 on that bombshell. 

Edited 9 November, 2017 by JohnnyType2

[stever750]

29 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

that would make sense. as i said it was what i had been told so it was obviously b0ll0x info 

 

i think i'll change to 1+1 on that bombshell. 

Presumably the +/- 3 range either makes it more or less aggressive?  Can you also turn it off completely whilst it's still installed so that it has no effect? 

Edited 9 November, 2017 by stever750

[stever750]

1 hour ago, ISQ said:

I'm warming to the plug and play box and the CRD3+ from what I can see is as good as any other box. Does anyone know of any discount codes for dtuk? Or if they do black friday deals

Maybe, if you hang around long enough. You can buy on credit up to 48 months, best option was 10% deposit (£40) then 6 interest free payments of around £52 per month. Or, do as I did and buy a slightly used one off eBay for £200

[stever750]

14 hours ago, Ads230 said:

Although mine's a petrol VRS230, I'm similarly booked out for a Stage 1 remap with Shark (although could go to Stage 2 with my mods).

 

Just as someone who's already done the research (although not had the 'experience' yet, so take it as you will) - a Stage 1 should not cause any adverse effects on engine components, as it is more of a linear torque curve adjustment, rather than ragging a tonne more power through the engine. Any issue with 'overheating' would more likely be from a water pump failure (common across Octavia Mk III's, so I'm led to believe) - which could happen anyway on the OEM tune.

 

The base Stage 1 tunes across APR, Revo, Shark etc. seem to be roughly the same for most petrol EA888 motors... but it might be worth your own research (I called a load of suppliers and got the engineers to talk me through it all; including a couple from the same software suppliers). But it's a fairly robust motor anyway, so you're unlikely to get any critical failures of components as a result of a Stage 1

 

I'm not sure what would change with the adjustable ECU boxes, but as I'm a tuning tech n00b I'd personally steer clear of them anyway and let the professionals crack on with it.

 

With a diesel, you're likely to get a fair bit more torque from a Stage 1 tune, as well as potentially increasing your MPG from efficiency improvements. But well worth a chat to a few different companies / suppliers to see what's best for you.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Edit: It might also be worth having an EDT (Engine Decontamination Treatment) service to smooth out the diesel engine before you get it remapped. Number of places run that service now; I've heard it's very beneficial.

On my experience, none of the generic maps alter the torque curve how you describe; most of them increase max torque (obviously) but it often occurs at the same engine speed, or even lower! This means the rate of increase is higher, or the torque curve at low engine speeds is steeper. 

[ISQ]

14 minutes ago, stever750 said:

Maybe, if you hang around long enough. You can buy on credit up to 48 months, best option was 10% deposit (£40) then 6 interest free payments of around £52 per month. Or, do as I did and buy a slightly used one off eBay for £200

I have looked at eBay but you don't get any warranty and you never know how carefully it has been removed or it's it's been played with.  I might give them a call to see if they have any online discount codes 

[JohnnyType2]

yes i believe so. 

[Ads230]

14 hours ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

 

I've been looking on the Shark web site and they don't seem to advertise a remap for a 230, only a 220.  Will they just remap your 230 with a 220 map.  I believe the 230 deliverers the torque slightly different to a 220. I've been looking on other Web Sites and some tuners actually advertise a remap for a 230. 

 

That's a good question - I, perhaps wrongly, assumed that any type of Stage 1 (at 220 or 230 OEM tune) wouldn't really matter as it's still being applied to an EA888 engine. But then I'm wondering if a '230'-specific tune takes into account the E-Diff and 'sports exhaust'. My stock 230 was dyno'd at 263 BHP in July...

 

i could potentially go for a Stage 2, as I've got the induction kit and turbo-back exhaust, but wasn't hot on the potential 'mad gainz' vs. engine longevity.

 

Thoughts? 

[stever750]

1 hour ago, ISQ said:

I have looked at eBay but you don't get any warranty and you never know how carefully it has been removed or it's it's been played with.  I might give them a call to see if they have any online discount codes 

There really isn't much to go wrong, and it's possible to find careful owners, but it's like anything I guess, there is a risk, it's about figuring out how much. Personally I'm pretty confident it's fine (and the length of warranty suggests there is little to go wrong with the device) 

[Auric Goldfinger]

14 hours ago, Auric Goldfinger said:

 

I've been looking on the Shark web site and they don't seem to advertise a remap for a 230, only a 220.  Will they just remap your 230 with a 220 map.  I believe the 230 deliverers the torque slightly different to a 220. I've been looking on other Web Sites and some tuners actually advertise a remap for a 230. 

 

9 minutes ago, Ads230 said:

 

That's a good question - I, perhaps wrongly, assumed that any type of Stage 1 (at 220 or 230 OEM tune) wouldn't really matter as it's still being applied to an EA888 engine. But then I'm wondering if a '230'-specific tune takes into account the E-Diff and 'sports exhaust'. My stock 230 was dyno'd at 263 BHP in July...

 

i could potentially go for a Stage 2, as I've got the induction kit and turbo-back exhaust, but wasn't hot on the potential 'mad gainz' vs. engine longevity.

 

Thoughts? 

 

The only think I could suggest is that maybe a phone call to a tuning company who offer the 230 map, ask some questions.  As i've said I think the torque is delivered on the 230 slightly differently to a 220 and perhaps the d-iff and different exaust might make a difference.