2 hours ago, KeithCheetham said:

 My 1.9TDI and previous 1.4TDI have as a recommended oil Quantum Platinum which is a 5W40, while our 1.4TDI Greenline uses Quantum LongLife III which is a low ash 5W30, both to the relevant VW specification for PD engines.

the 5/40 suitable for the earlier PD engines, but must meet VW specs as mentioned above, but the green line has to use 5/30 long life low ash oil (Castrol egde can be used as well as pertronus ? oil's) because it has a DPF fitted.

 

All vehicles with a DPF have to use low ash oil's

3 hours ago, Ju1ian1001 said:

the 5/40 suitable for the earlier PD engines, but must meet VW specs as mentioned above, but the green line has to use 5/30 long life low ash oil (Castrol egde can be used as well as pertronus ? oil's) because it has a DPF fitted.

 

All vehicles with a DPF have to use low ash oil's

None of the mk1 fabias had DPFs

Gord- someone mentioned EGR . which might be full of crud on low mileage 1.4 Tdi which have only done 2-3K per year. I've had it happen on mine when I did low miles. The symptom is car runs OK for most of the time, but on starting, fails. Fuel shut off, should toggle ( off when engine switched off, then on again as the engine shuts off). Valve sticks, usually half way .it's situated at the engine rear, left of centre on the air intake, behind the EGR ( cylinder 2-3" in diameter), with a  wire attached. The simple fix is to manually flick this valve to get it to open. From what is said on here- the cure is to get rid of crud in the valve/EGR, and then if you only do low miles- take it for a burn up on a DC/Motorway. BTW- I've found this little lady more responsive at 70 in 5th than a 6-speed Mondeo at the same speed. And even on long ( mostly at illegal speeds on long trips from where I am to way north of Glasgow she returned well over 50 MPG. 

Oil filter - as mentioned elsewhere - drain sump BEFORE removing. One other check item is the calliper securing bolts. I had to have one fitted with a Helicoil after a previous fast fit place replaced the pads. Remove wheel, and try a 7mm Allen key in the head, of all 4. Any movement/ failure to tighten and it's off to local small man repair shop.

That red light on the dash, when you've got the back seat down- it's rear seat warning, for the seat not being secured. But enjoy- especially that look on boy racers in a punto/Escort, when you leave them for dead at the lights, as the turbo kicks in. BUT- perhaps it just mine, which passes MOT brake tests with no problem, but I'd suggest that it needs at least larger discs or discs all round to match the performance to the stopping ability. I have found brakes are OK but suffer from fade on progressive driving. And I chose my pads on QUALITY, not price.

If you ever have to change the console bushes- ( often called Nearside Front Suspension arm rubber bush deteriorated resulting in excessive movement rear (2.4.G.2) IN mOT SPEAK), I'd recommend POWERFLEX.

One other place to look is Front Anti-roll bar has excessive play in a ball joint (2.4.G.2) (again MOT MAN SPEAK).

It's a long list for a small car, but one I've done over 2.5k in a week in, feeling happier than in many a dearer spec motor and a lot nippier motor. ( That's after 50 years behind the wheel and possibly  heading for my 3 million mile mark). And in my time, I've got several through the MOT chain. 

 

Hi there. I have Skoda Felicia GLXi. Recently the engine oil light is coming on when the engine is hot but at very low revs. As soon a si increase revs the oil light goes out. I'm putting this down to old oil and filter as It's been a while since it's last oil change. (It's a starting point at any rate!)

 

Now. I cannot remember which oil I used the last time but I suspect it was ASDA's 5W40. That's what I've been topping up with recently anyhow!

 

 I thought I would check on here and I see that the general consensus seems to be as long as it conforms to 505.01 or 506.01 it should be fine. 

 

My Haines book of lies suggests 10W/40, 15W/40, or 15W50 to API SG or VW 501.01, or VW 500.

 

API SG is redundant now but I think it's backwards compatible the ASDA 5W30 is API SL/CD or ACEA C3.

 

I'm actually very confused. I think that the 5W/40 may be too thin for my old motor. Any comments or recommendations would be very welcome.

 

Thanks guys.

It sounds like a leaky oil pressure switch, change it out, they're as cheap as chips.

 

Oil grade is a red herring on such a basic engine.

I suspected that initially and have ordered one from Evil Bay! I just need to find the bloody thing now!

 

Any idea on the oil type?

 

5 minutes ago, Caesar42 said:

I suspected that initially and have ordered one from Evil Bay! I just need to find the bloody thing now!

 

Any idea on the oil type?

 

 

On that engine I'd just use whatever was cheapest, no sense in wasting money, it's far more important to change the oil and filter regularly than worry about super-duper whizzbang liquid engineering marketing nonsense.

 

As I've mentioned before the SAE viscosity standard really isn't relevant in this climate, it gets neither hot enough nor cold enough for it to be an issue. I assume you're in the UK and not Alaska or Nevada.

That's brilliant mate. Cheapest best it is!

 

I'm in Scotland.....It definitely felt like Alaska this winter though!