Hi,

I have read around before posting but still have some unanswered questions.

 

Having recently changed the brake fluid I needed to take off the 90° rubber / silicone pipe that follows the Egr towards the intercooler. Part 6 is the pipe. I ve noticed after a drive that the pipe has started to separate from the egr end. Despite correctly it continues to separate back. Probably by 5mm. This pipe has been off a few times whilst I ve had the car. 

 

The cause for concern was the black gunk able to leak out near this first pipe . no 6 . see attachment to workshop picture diagram. 

 

The advice I m after is whether to replace the d clip or clips? Replace the o rings? Replace the whole tube, no perforations in it Though but someone said the metal case wears down loosening d clip grip.

 

These are quite pricey parts. The dealer I use at Doncaster worked out cheaper than TPS for genuine parts. 

As another option how effective is it to use jubilee clips? What size is recommended if so?

 

D clips are £1.50

Rubber seal is £8.50 per seal!

The whole pipe no.6 is cheapest at £40.

 

Also, there is the oil mist leaking after the intercooler. Pipe no 2 which is well documented. 

Would anyone recommend changing o ring here?

 

Intercooler was cleaned last time I did the timingnoise and the pipes last time egr was replaced.

 

Car is 07 with 76k.

 

This is preventative maintenance at moment. I switched the d clips around pipe 6 which are same size and this helped stop leak but not the gap that has appeared of 5mm where pipe seals. 

Any thoughts appreciated. 

PS I don't really want to buy an aftermarket kit. Car is too old to justify cost. I m keeping  it genuine. 

 

Matt

 

 

 

 

Neatly firing in a couple of self-tappers will stop the pipe coming loose, it's what most people do.

Yes, I saw that some folks were using self tapping screws. I thought that was a bit too invasive.

I was going to replace the D clips (they have been pulled apart when removing and probably stretched out) and possibly replace a few O rings. 

 

This weblink supports the use of jubilee clips. Anyone used jubilee clips with success? Do they work?

 

https://www.onpointdyno.com/2013/01/war-on-boost-leaks/

 

 

If I were to go with the aftermarket silicone hoses what would people recommend? Any weblinks.

At the moment though none of the hoses are split, it is just the joints that seem a bit loose.

 

Thanks for any replies.

Just found this unanswered Briskoda thread from 2011. So any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

 

 

Jubilee clips are not really good enough, they cannot be reliably tightened enough, some people scared of drilling holes for self-tappers have used Mikalor clamps with varying degrees of success.

i used cable ties to stop the joints coming apart. seems to work well they havent moved at all since i did it. just makes it a pain to undo the joints as the ties have to be cut.

Thanks for your replies.

I ve seen the mikalor clips. Is there any locations these work better at along the boost pipes. See diagram above.

 

I think it might be worth trying cable ties. Not seen a guide but would the method be to cable tie two ties parallel to each other around either side of the join and place a 3rd or 4th under and above the 2 other cable ties in line with the pipe, in order to brace and pull the other 2 ties and hopefully the joint together?

Anyone found that replacing the horseshoe c clips helps and or the rubber. I don't think the metal lugs on the pipe itself are worn.

Is there any tape out there that is more oil resistant than ptfe. Ptfe I ve used for plumbing with water but it is flimsy and probably will dissolve in oil mist. Also might flake about and find its way into engine?

Aftermarket kit for replacing with hard pipes seems to cost £290.

I kept have the pipe coming out of the turbo pop off when under load. Would shoot straight out. 

 

I modified a mikalor clamp to fit over the spring clip to hold it firmly in place. Must be 18 months now and hasn't popped off once. Worth it for £4 and a few minutes with a demel 

Stevo, how did you modify mikalor clamp? 

Do you remember the size of the clamp? I see a reply of yours that hints to a project thread but cannot find it.

cheers

 

13 hours ago, bmbmdmb said:

Stevo, how did you modify mikalor clamp? 

Do you remember the size of the clamp? I see a reply of yours that hints to a project thread but cannot find it.

cheers

 

Here you go mate.

 

 

It was size 63-69mm but that was to go over the the clip on the turbo housing. The boost piped may be slightly different 

Thanks for that link Stevo.

I had the pipes off at weekend. Bottom one full of oil that builds up in intercooler. I think the top pipes just need new c clips for now, having had top pipe off a few times. Tie wrapped pipe joins. Bottom pipe c clip not put on probably and pipe blew off after quarter mile. On removal of underbody cover found intercooler was cleaned out. On reassembly, car runs better. The lugs that hold the pipes together are in good condition.

 

 

 

Anyone know what this copper coloured ring is? See picture. 

Looks like position 22 in diagram, before turbo. What does it do? Only part of it is visible. Is it sealed?

^ Think it's simply a locating flange, which I would guess is all part of the metal connector and not a separate part.

 

Edited 15 December, 20178 yr by TMB

okay thank you TMB.

 

I have scoured the web for threads on boost leaks.

Although the metal lugs on the side of the boost pipe allow the c clip to hold the pipe in place has anyone replaced the rubber o ring and or c clips first to fund this is successful? Obviously, if the lugs are worn or missing the c clip will have nothing to grip the pipe and whooooosshhh!

Is there an aftermarket kit that fits the original oem smic and egr / anti shudder valve? It seems all 'hard pipework' requires the same aftermarket FMIC? 

Has anyone used heat shrink over the metal lugs and shiny alloy join before reattaching two pipes together. If the lugs wear down gradually would this not take up the slack? There is a Youtube video showing a fabia 1 vrs having heat shrink 76mm width 2 to 1 shrink ratio at 3mm thickness placed over the join and then heat shrinked. Looked effective. More cost effective than paying 400 to 575 for FMIC and hard pipework?

 

Just to update...

 

Bought new c clips for the short right angle pipes just after egr & asv and after intercooler. Also, changed 3 o rings which are 5x price than the clips.

When putting the pipes together the new rubber o rings helped make a seal. There was more resistance when pushing the pipes together. The c clips helped the most, some of the clips were noticeable tighter than old ones.

For good measure heat shrink without adhesive as used over the joints. I could not seal first joint over asv / egr or the joint going into intercooler but the car is noticeably better. A lot more responsive and less turbo whistling noises.

Heat shrink round width bought is 76mm , about 100mm+ flat width as suggested elsewhere on briskoda. 0.5m length but could have done with a bit a longer length.

...and it does not work.

Worked for 4 days. Produced improved mpg figures. Easily an extra 5 mpg. 

The heat shrink after intercooler looks like it has been pushed aside and along pipe. I m looking at aftermarket kit. 

Btw oem pipework  from dealer would cost £640 for entire replacwhich, not including clips and o rings. Not including Oem Smic which is £380. 

Edited 13 January, 20188 yr by bmbmdmb