i am now carrying my jump leads in the boot

i have a brand new battery so i shouldnt have to use them, but someone might need a 'jump'

i have been bringing myself up to date on connection of the cables and did some googling to confirm what i think i should do...i should do

there are a number of suggestions...AA RAC HALFORDS HAYNES MOTOR MAGS ETC

not all agree??

i usually fix red to the good car battery then red to the dead one, black to the dead one then black to a good earth on the good...

run the good for around a couple of minutes then start the bad...run both for a few minutes

remove my black, the other black and red, and then my red...

 

happy christmas to all you chaps and thanks for months of help

cheers

geof

I've not made a habit of giving or taking a jump start since having cars with lots of electronics in them, though if I planned to start doing that again I'd probably get a new modern set of leads that had spark suppression built in.  My plan tends to be to use a portable battery pack across the car's battery though some others would suggest only the non earth end to the car's battery and the other lead to the engine metal work.

 

Happy Christmas to you!

Thanks 

must get a new set of leads..

and

happy christmas 

Much easier and smaller than a set of leads  these  Merry Christmas..
 

Edited 25 December, 20178 yr by DEL80Y

On 25/12/2017 at 10:08, DEL80Y said:

Much easier and smaller than a set of leads  these  Merry Christmas..
 

I did see this on a USA YouTube...didn’t know one could get it here

will defo investigate

thanks

geof

Yes, that is the way things have gone or moved on to.  Plenty choice around - I've still got an old battery pack which had used to have a tyre pump and still has a feeble work light, replaced the battery once, it takes a "Hillbilly" golf cart battery - broken tyre pump has been removed and a sheet of plywood fitted in its place, so it solders on supporting powering up my new tyre pump and 12 volts high speed drill and any other emergency 12 volt power needs.

 

Edit:- I think that that energy pack would be better to have as a present that the battery powered "Colour Changing Toilet Pan Night Light" PIR sensor that my mate seems to have suggested to his wife that I would like as a Christmas present, though, I have to say it has turned out to be quite handy, I've just got to remember to drink a few litres/pints of water before going to bed so that I can use it, I'm sure the novelty will wear off soon though!  (Croydex AJ100122E if anyone is really interested!)

Edited 26 December, 20178 yr by rum4mo

On 12/26/2017 at 11:03, rum4mo said:

Yes, that is the way things have gone or moved on to.  Plenty choice around - I've still got an old battery pack which had used to have a tyre pump and still has a feeble work light, replaced the battery once, it takes a "Hillbilly" golf cart battery - broken tyre pump has been removed and a sheet of plywood fitted in its place, so it solders on supporting powering up my new tyre pump and 12 volts high speed drill and any other emergency 12 volt power needs.

 

Edit:- I think that that energy pack would be better to have as a present that the battery powered "Colour Changing Toilet Pan Night Light" PIR sensor that my mate seems to have suggested to his wife that I would like as a Christmas present, though, I have to say it has turned out to be quite handy, I've just got to remember to drink a few litres/pints of water before going to bed so that I can use it, I'm sure the novelty will wear off soon though!  (Croydex AJ100122E if anyone is really interested!)

now we are into rocket science...

your aim is to please?

do they do one for a pedestal sink...

You do know that "we" are not meant to use the sink, it puts us at an advantage over our female chums?

... Also, sitting down to pee is supposedly better for the health of your prostate!

 

I have been looking myself at these newer versions of battery charge leads... The AA do them for around £50 (Via Sainsburys petrol station, recently) But you can eBay them for quite a chunk less although the quality and power seems to fluctuate somewhat! Perhaps find a good model/brand, then look for there best price. 

With reference to old school jump leads, though, Connect red to doner car + teminal, then to patient car, then connect black lead to done - terminal, then to patient earth point on chassis if possible (Engine mount or something thats grounded) If you can't find that, the - battery pole but this is slightly riskier. Start done, to get power flowing, wait a few mins and then try patient car. If it starts, take off leads as early as possible once the vehicle is running well. Remove black from patient, then done, same with red. By removing the ground lead, you break the circuit so the power flow stops immediately. Do make sure to ensure that there is no contact between the two vehicles during any of this operation as this may ground/short circuit them and is probably the most likely way to damage any of the electrical components, along with putting + leads to - leads, etc. (Doing this will actually increase the circuit to 24 volts as you do with household batteries by adding a set of batteries together to run torches etc. 2 x 1.5 volt batteries become 3 volt).

You can imagine what throwing 24v can do to your alternator, etc!

2 hours ago, mrgf said:

... Also, sitting down to pee is supposedly better for the health of your prostate!

 

I have been looking myself at these newer versions of battery charge leads... The AA do them for around £50 (Via Sainsburys petrol station, recently) But you can eBay them for quite a chunk less although the quality and power seems to fluctuate somewhat! Perhaps find a good model/brand, then look for there best price. 

With reference to old school jump leads, though, Connect red to doner car + teminal, then to patient car, then connect black lead to done - terminal, then to patient earth point on chassis if possible (Engine mount or something thats grounded) If you can't find that, the - battery pole but this is slightly riskier. Start done, to get power flowing, wait a few mins and then try patient car. If it starts, take off leads as early as possible once the vehicle is running well. Remove black from patient, then done, same with red. By removing the ground lead, you break the circuit so the power flow stops immediately. Do make sure to ensure that there is no contact between the two vehicles during any of this operation as this may ground/short circuit them and is probably the most likely way to damage any of the electrical components, along with putting + leads to - leads, etc. (Doing this will actually increase the circuit to 24 volts as you do with household batteries by adding a set of batteries together to run torches etc. 2 x 1.5 volt batteries become 3 volt).

You can imagine what throwing 24v can do to your alternator, etc!

 

yes that method is the one i use...good red to bad red bad black to goodchassis

removal in reverse order

 

Concerning...Compact Battery Jump Starters

these appeal greatly since some come with a compressor....so covering the cost of a footpump

i am now googling for the top models and ask if the team have any advice...usb and phone charging arent a problem if missing...but the torch is edit...scrub the compressor...those ones are too big

and

i have had my prostate burnt to ashes with 19 sessions of radiotherapy and my libido obliterated with 5 years of hormone injections to lower my testosterone levels...

in so many words really i cant give a f(4 letter word)..

life goes on...

and i get a free tv licence in january...

 

so...with a budget of under £100 which CBJS should i go for..

cheers

geof

 

 

 

Edited 27 December, 20178 yr by mrcrow

I think that, in my experience, you are better to dismiss the compressor included option as while they are very handy when they are new, a few years later due to their cheapness they have failed, I'll need to check up on when I get a free TV licence though!

 

In the absence of a "12V outlet" socket, I'd be looking for USB for phone charging, torch - again nice to have when new, but good to have a good compact torch to either have in the car or on your person.

 

I've no idea on who makes a good one at  a sensible price that will last for X years though, I would have thought that some car mags must have carried out a consumer test on them by now.

 

Having, or buying a tool for a specific purpose always works for me, I worked in engineering for too long and so ended up being controlled by muppets that dismissed my choices in say equipment controllers because they only did what the task demanded of them - typically we would end up with a controller than in real time was useless - but it did have a built in light weight word processing package - not good!

 

Edit:- a bit like having a toilet pan light that does not play soothing music??

Edited 28 December, 20178 yr by rum4mo

5 hours ago, rum4mo said:

I think that, in my experience, you are better to dismiss the compressor included option as while they are very handy when they are new, a few years later due to their cheapness they have failed, I'll need to check up on when I get a free TV licence though!

 

In the absence of a "12V outlet" socket, I'd be looking for USB for phone charging, torch - again nice to have when new, but good to have a good compact torch to either have in the car or on your person.

 

I've no idea on who makes a good one at  a sensible price that will last for X years though, I would have thought that some car mags must have carried out a consumer test on them by now.

 

Having, or buying a tool for a specific purpose always works for me, I worked in engineering for too long and so ended up being controlled by muppets that dismissed my choices in say equipment controllers because they only did what the task demanded of them - typically we would end up with a controller than in real time was useless - but it did have a built in light weight word processing package - not good!

 

Edit:- a bit like having a toilet pan light that does not play soothing music??

that would be a bummer!!

 

i know have looked a bit for straight car starting products...no compressor of course as you say

one aspect i found reading the one star reviews from users is that a lot dont have mains charging..you buy that extra if you dont want to charge from your cigar lighter....which you cant do if your battery is flat and the unit isnt at full charge...????

one which i asked about which was priced fairly good was the sealey SL 65S which charges from the cigar socket and a mains charger although an extra is out of stock

the money side...sealey SL65S £81.74 ebay and from sealey if available the mains charger which i cannot find the price for

but

the next model up the SL1s comes with charger and is astronomically priced at around 140-150 except one site which reads 120 incl vat

comes in a nice pouch and has both mains and cigar lighter and a multi usb charger cable etc...

another feature of some mini chargers is the cable lengths are shortish and are shown as being connected in some youtubes as to the dead battery terminals instead of the black to an earth away from the battery earth...

the sealy sl1s has 420mm connecting cables

 

cheers

geof

 

 

 

Model No.
SL65S

I will not now give a jump start.

 

The last time I did it was with a 1990's era diesel car so non of the electronics of today.

 

At the time all seemed fine but soon after I found my battery very low. At first I thought the relatively new battery had failed but it turned out the alternator output was only just over 12 volts not 13.8 - 14.4 volts. Enough to put the dash light out but not keep the battery charged.

 

Hence my good will cost me an exchange alternator.

 

If really desperate the only way would be to disconnect the battery from my car first.

 

 

Another thought for comment would be to link my battery to the other car, wait say 15 mins for some charge to transfer then disconnect the leads and see if enough charge was transferred for the other car to start.

^^^ I had the exact same experience with my Schitroen Berlingo.

 

Since then, the only way I will jump start another car is with the procedure outlined in @delta925's last paragraph.

44 minutes ago, delta925 said:

I will not now give a jump start.

 

The last time I did it was with a 1990's era diesel car so non of the electronics of today.

 

At the time all seemed fine but soon after I found my battery very low. At first I thought the relatively new battery had failed but it turned out the alternator output was only just over 12 volts not 13.8 - 14.4 volts. Enough to put the dash light out but not keep the battery charged.

 

Hence my good will cost me an exchange alternator.

 

If really desperate the only way would be to disconnect the battery from my car first.

 

 

Another thought for comment would be to link my battery to the other car, wait say 15 mins for some charge to transfer then disconnect the leads and see if enough charge was transferred for the other car to start.

i must agree in some ways...i tried to give my sons oldish honda 2.5 diesel a start from my vw 1.6 golf

the earth got hot and it wouldnt start

in that case i took the battery out and charged it from the mains..fitted it the next day

you have raised my awareness now of fudging up the good samaritans donkey...

thanks

geof

Edited 30 December, 20178 yr by mrcrow

27 minutes ago, Robjon said:

^^^ I had the exact same experience with my Schitroen Berlingo.

 

Since then, the only way I will jump start another car is with the procedure outlined in @delta925's last paragraph.

yes!!!

see my quote and comments above

thanks

geof

On 30/12/2017 at 13:39, mrcrow said:

i must agree in some ways...i tried to give my sons oldish honda 2.5 diesel a start from my vw 1.6 golf

the earth got hot and it wouldnt start

in that case i took the battery out and charged it from the mains..fitted it the next day

you have raised my awareness now of fudging up the good samaritans donkey...

thanks

geof

 

When jump starting if anything gets hot it is due to bad or inadequate connections.

 

Cheapo relatively thin leads that may just be enough for a small petrol engine will drop far too much power when tried on a big diesel or even a small one.

Again so long as the battery is just low charge, not failed / failing or the dead vehicle actually has a fault, wait a while for the donor battery to dump some charge in.

On 30/12/2017 at 11:00, YS53 said:

We have an 09 Fabia and it appears that I cannot do a reset via the trip button - I believe that on some cars you can and some cars you can't - hopefully you will be able to on yours mrcrow.

I will presumably have to talk to a friendly vcds owner to get mine reset LOL

 

1 hour ago, delta925 said:

 

When jump starting if anything gets hot it is due to bad or inadequate connections.

 

Cheapo relatively thin leads that may just be enough for a small petrol engine will drop far too much power when tried on a big diesel or even a small one.

Again so long as the battery is just low charge, not failed / failing or the dead vehicle actually has a fault, wait a while for the donor battery to dump some charge in.

Cheapo indeed...I am going to ditch them...the clamps look like they were made by a blacksmith....still considering the mini charger route 

cheers

Geof

1 hour ago, mrcrow said:

double post..sorry

 

Edited 1 January, 20188 yr by mrcrow

@delta925 - So you're saying that you won't give people jump starts because the last time you did it let you diagnose a failing alternator before it stranded you?

5 hours ago, KenONeill said:

@delta925 - So you're saying that you won't give people jump starts because the last time you did it let you diagnose a failing alternator before it stranded you?

 

Correct.

 

I was never actually stranded.

First a few days later I realised my battery was low then found that the voltage with the engine running at ~2000rpm was only 12.5 volts. I then used a charger most nights until I changed the alternator.

 

 

Edited 1 January, 20188 yr by delta925

Another trick with diesels used to be turning the key to ignition and waiting for the glow plug light to go out then turning they key back and doing it again so they really were hot so a better chance of starting.

 

When one glow plug fails often it is not noticed. Only when a second fails is starting significantly more difficult. Here again two shots can help.

 

Whether any of this is still relevant with recent designs I do not know.