1 hour ago, xman said:

Have you tried swapping wires, bottom to top switch, to eliminate the switch? Not sure if this is difficult to do or not

no not yet. i usually do not try anything that could involve electric shock. might try if the parts come off easily

Could it be possible that the panel could be checked by an electronic technician?

Perhaps he could supply some power and do some research?

Not sure if my saying stands out logical though...

 

Have you searched for any second hand panel or in the net there are many sold like ebay, amazon etc?

If the button lights up when pressed, it suggests that the button works and rhe panel is registering the press.  As far as I can see though, the relay that actually powers on the HRW is elsewhere, in the onboard supply control unit. This is where you need to be looking for the fault, I believe. 

3 minutes ago, Wino said:

If the button lights up when pressed, it suggests that the button works and rhe panel is registering the press.  As far as I can see though, the relay that actually powers on the HRW is elsewhere, in the onboard supply control unit. This is where you need to be looking for the fault, I believe. 

Hmm...I will not disagree....This makes sense here 

18 minutes ago, Wino said:

If the button lights up when pressed, it suggests that the button works and rhe panel is registering the press.  As far as I can see though, the relay that actually powers on the HRW is elsewhere, in the onboard supply control unit. This is where you need to be looking for the fault, I believe. 

 

Is that another name for the fuse box? or some other module?

Good question. I can't go back to the wiring diags just now to figure that out. Should be able to have another look in the morning if no one else answers that this evening.

I'm thinking that the coil on the relay might be OC, OP doesn't hear any clicking when button pressed and the climate panel could be smart enough to know its not actually driving anything

I already checked both fuse boxes and all the fuses are working fine. No faulty fuses in there. That was actually the first thing i checked

A relay is not a fuse 

 

45 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

A relay is not a fuse 

 

Well i checked the fuse box under the hood and relay box inside the car - left under a steering wheel. I do not know if that is called the relay box...but yeh i checked it 

 

Although...i do not know what "coil on the relay" stands for...nor OC/OP...

Edited 25 November, 20187 yr by fokz8

OC is open-circuit, like when a wire breaks. SuperbTWM is saying that maybe the coil which is part of the relay, is broken. This would mean that the relay could not switch the heater on.

OP is original poster, that's you.

 

The 4000+ page wiring diagram is a bit hard to navigate efficiently, particularly the section where relay positions are shown.

From what I can see in the time I've had, the relay (if it's a plug-in one not inside the control unit) is on a horizontal row of 5 relays under the onboard power supply control unit in the cabin (this unit has three 52-way connectors I think?). It seems to be in position 5 on earlier cars and position 2 on later cars. It's a four pin relay. Unfortunately, if those two positions both have four-pin relays installed, I'm not sure how to tell which is the right one.

 

If it isn't too hard to do, maybe take some photos of what relay holders you have in the cabin, showing which relays you have?

 

 

Edited 25 November, 20187 yr by Wino

Now when I really think, when i click the defroster, there is absolutely no sound to be heard.

 

Will go down there and check / take photos in a bit

well..as newb as I am. I didn't realize that relay box isn't the same as fuse box (as some1 already mentioned above). i thought that fuse box was under the hood, but relay was to the side of steering wheel...but also a fuse box. so i checked online, and i realized it's under the steering wheel... so i got a screwdriver and tried to pop it open, but it just wouldn't come off. it was basically moving entirely but some purple cable was holding it back, and since i don't know what the cable is for, i didn't continue because i didn't wanna break/disconnect anything...

 

i think it must be something like this ---> although it this case, it looks a lot simpler. but the car model is the same

 

after a while, i found this lying in my glove box (attached images)...

 

it kinda looks like the relay we're talking about?honestly, i found it there after i took it to mechanic...but i since I'm real newb with cars, I never knew what it was, so i just left it there. 

 

Is it possible he pulled it out, tried to set me up with some climatronic bull**** so I'd pay a lot of money for him to only change relay, and me not really knowing...?

 

Also, i provided a video of how it looks like ---> https://vimeo.com/user92111412/review/302668080/01075d9770

 

Again, sorry for being amateur with cars...but we can't all be into everything right?

 

 

 

 

That looks like an aftermarket relay that has been left behind by the mechanic so it does look as if the mechanic has proved the issue is not the relay.

 

Having said that, one rule I try to stick to is when somebody else has been on a job before me to go back to beginning and start again as mistakes can be made! So if you can get into these relays you can double check for yourself.

 

 

Edited 25 November, 20187 yr by SuperbTWM

11 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

That looks like an aftermarket relay that has been left behind by the mechanic so it does look as if the mechanic has proved the issue is not the relay.

 

Having said that, one rule I try to stick to is when somebody else has been on a job before me to go back to beginning and start again as mistakes can be made! So if you can get into these relays you can double check for yourself.

 

 

 

Yes, maybe. Although in a lot of cases, if a mechanic sees that you have no idea what he talks about, he can easily make up stuff you have to repair and overpay for it. I already overpaid one time when he made up crazy price for repairing engine thermostat - it was about 180€. After some research, i found out it only costs 11€. Later i asked some other mechanic, and he told me he'd charge about 50€ to change it. So i was ripped off for 130€. 

 

So since then, i don't really trust this guy anymore and i will never take my care there anymore.

 

So yeh, ill try to get it off another time, when it won't be pouring rain outside like today. 

 

So when i get into relay, do i just check it with multimeter, or is there something else to try if it works?

2 hours ago, fokz8 said:

so when i get into relay, do i just check it with multimeter, or is there something else to try if it works?

 

you could measure the coil to see what the resistance is but ideally you could test it by applying 12v to it and making sure the switch contacts close. Or you could try putting that other relay in you have if it is the same style to see if you get any different results

 

You can also go across the relay base, and make sure you have 12V across the pair that switches (you will probably need engine running) this will prove you have power and a circuit through the screen element.

 

 

Do you know exactly when your car was built?

In the May 2007-onwards wiring diagrams there are five different relay arrangement at the end, in five separate sections which presumably correspond to different date ranges.

Unfortunately they haven't put the date ranges in for each of these sections!

 

The first two look like SuperbTWM's diagram with the relay in position B5 as shown in that image, so if you find that, it's easy to identify the correct relay.

 

The later 3 are different with no equivalent holder to that diagram, but the one holding the HRW relay looks like the straight, single row relay carrier above that one in your video. For all of those versions the heated rear window relay is in position 2. Note that in your video, with a right-hand drive car that relay carrier is installed upside down compared to how it will be on your car. When it is the LHD way up  the HRW relay is second from the left. so if you don't see a relay carrier like SuperbTWM's image when you get in there, it'll be here:

 

Edited 25 November, 20187 yr by Wino

I've just found that the first date that is different from SuperbTWM's diagram seems to be November 2008 onwards, so it looks like yours will be like his diagram.

3 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

@SuperbTWM

 

thank you, will give it a try again on Wednesday. impossible to do it before than, since i work 12hrs a day and i get home at 18:30, when it's already dark

@Wino

 

the exact date of built? no, but i'ts been first registered on 5.12.2008, so i guess sometime in year 2008

 

i guess i need to give it another try and pop it open. i think the diagrams may also be displayed in car's manual book...

 

also i checked fuse number 25, which is a defroster, and it worked perfectly.

 

Edited 25 November, 20187 yr by fokz8

hey guys. sorry it's been so long since. basically worked my ass of again, got home at 6pm, and was unable to check anything due to bad lighting, but also had to wait for my voltage device to arrive. Anyway, i checked my relays, and everything seems to be working fine. Even got my friend who owns same year Skoda to lend me a relay so i could switch it, but nothing changes.

 

So, I'm stuck again. A friend suggested that, the "button" might turn off, as there might be something wrong with something haha. sounds funny...but what he suggested is that, the button might somehow get a wrong signal that the rear window is heated to the maximum temperature and turns off, because it cannot heat anymore or get higher...if this might be the case, he still doesnt know how to save it..

 

Any suggestions on this?...or any other at all? I'm basically giving up at this point...

Mate did you end up finding a fix for this? I have an identical issue on my 2010 Golf R. Must be a VAG thing!

Albeit, a MkIII Octavia, but the exact same symptoms.

 

It was traced to a faulty control module...