Handbrake adjustment

[gav_is_con]

My 2005 1.9 Octy hatch has a handbrake that's not up to scratch. As per a thread on here was planning to adjust under the jumbo box.  However that may not be possible due to the handbrake cable equaliser plate looking a little mishaped. 

I can't see how I would get a spanner in there anyway. 

So my car pictured first, then a stock image from Haynes. Something definitely not right to me. Even if the plate was straightened surely it's strength would be compromised afterwards ?

Advice welcomed. 

 

 

[TheClient]

i've seen a few posts with the equaliser plate that looks like yours.  I'm not clear if they are all faulty.  It looks wrong and damaged. Could the caliper / handbrake connection for that side be seized?  That is what I'd be looking for first.   May need two people to help check.  I have a feeling the cables cross so RHS maybe rear wheel LHS.. 

 

A 10mm spanner or a 10mm socket on a universal joint and extension bar should reach...

Edited 29 January, 2018 by TheClient

[Kris82]

One caliper seizing up.

After a longish drive park up and feel both back wheels, if one is seizing up the wheel will usually be warmer than the rest.

[gav_is_con]

Yeah was told the nsr brakes are binding last service and after popping to garage the equaliser plate is level now. Does not look like Rr handbrake is seized underneath. So looking at new rear caliper. 

[xman]

Check the lh (nearside cable) hasn't snapped. Cables can also stretch prior to total failure (cores breaking and unwinding).

[Guest]

I had a new (recon) caliper bind, turned out to be the handbrake cable was corroded.

 

Being handy I removed the cable and spent 15 minutes pulling it back and forth with WD-40 until it stopped spewing brown gunge and ran smoothly.

 

Worked a treat, experience would suggest that a free running handbrake should feel smooth and springy when applied with the button depressed, whereas a sticky cable will feel rough/heavy like there's a drag.

[gav_is_con]

34 minutes ago, MicMac said:

I had a new (recon) caliper bind, turned out to be the handbrake cable was corroded.

 

Being handy I removed the cable and spent 15 minutes pulling it back and forth with WD-40 until it stopped spewing brown gunge and ran smoothly.

 

Worked a treat, experience would suggest that a free running handbrake should feel smooth and springy when applied with the button depressed, whereas a sticky cable will feel rough/heavy like there's a drag.

Well this could explain why the handbrake equaliser was skewed one minute then straight the next. But then again if my pads are now unequally work that's surely a bad caliper. 

Given the rears calipers are wind back I don't understand other than the moving in and out when brakes applied how they stick. 

I clean and grease all guides well when replacing disks and pads. Actually I never did the guide pins until I did the fronts mid 2017, before 

 

The rear brakes done last 2014 164k now on 227k. This is the first time the car has had less use as its insured for 12.5k the Superb is the daily runner. 

Maybe seizing up and full of the crud from previous high speed motorway driving. 

Think these items need reviewing first 

@MicMac yours running high miles ?

[xman]

9 minutes ago, gav_is_con said:

Well this could explain why the handbrake equaliser was skewed one minute then straight the next. But then again if my pads are now unequally work that's surely a bad caliper. 

Given the rears calipers are wind back I don't understand other than the moving in and out when brakes applied how they stick. 

I clean and grease all guides well when replacing disks and pads. Actually I never did the guide pins until I did the fronts mid 2017, before 

 

The rear brakes done last 2014 164k now on 227k. This is the first time the car has had less use as its insured for 12.5k the Superb is the daily runner. 

Maybe seizing up and full of the crud from previous high speed motorway driving. 

Think these items need reviewing first 

@MicMac yours running high miles ?

 

Brakes stick mainly due to pads fouling on corroded carriers, however pistons do stick due to internal corrosion and/or crud. Open the bleed valve and wind the pistons back to push old fluid out. Close valve and carefully pump the pistons out taking great care not to go too far! Repeat a couple of times, (checking the reservoir level). This worked for me and freed up the pistons nicely. No guarantee if they're too far gone though.

[Guest]

@gav_is_con

If you're keen to get to the bottom of things there's only one sure way and that's to take it apart.

 

I'd remove the cable from the caliper first and check it moves freely by alternately pulling on each end, at the caliper and where it joins at the equaliser. It helps if you have an assistant to pull against you at the opposite end.

 

If it's stiff disconnect it and pull it through the guide tube so you can assess cleaning/lubing or replacement.

 

If the cable is fine then check the handbrake mechanism on the rear of the caliper moves freely and returns to its stop.  With cable attached and properly adjusted the lever should have 1.0-1.5mm gap to the stop.

 

If everything checks out ok then I'd say you need to check the pads are free to slide in the caliper.

 

If that's not the issue it's time to strip the caliper...

 

Want more info?

 

Edited 29 January, 2018 by MicMac