Help Please.

I don't do motorway trips very often since retiring and my Yeti has gone into limp mode at least 3 times over the last 12 months. I do not get any warning lights at all uintil the car suddenly goes into limp mode with only the engine management light  and glowplug lights coming on. Skoda assist did the last regen 2 weeks ago and I fear that this sudden, without warning, limp home mode is about to happen again. Yesterday and today the cooling fans were unning after the engine was switched off yet still no warning lights. Still under warranty so any ideas what may be wrong or should the dealer be told to carry out a full analysis. Love my Yeti but staring to have doubts about it.

29 minutes ago, Ajay24 said:

Yesterday and today the cooling fans were unning after the engine was switched off yet still no warning lights.

 

That was an interrupted regen, you get no lights for that.

But I only know its doing a regen after I have turned the enguine off. No warning lights beforehand and only 2 weeks after last regen and only about 100 miles since. I should get some form of warning shouldn't I?

Ajay24, have you had the EA189 ‘diesel fix’ applied?

 

my 2015 Superb started regenerating more frequently after the fix (even when the engine is relatively cold) and I am still working with the local dealer to get things resolved (mainly stalling issues on restart) since the fix was applied.

 

Theres no warning if it starts a regen like that, there are when it needs a more serious regen.

Thanks, but I really have no idea about the fix. The car has been regularly serviced by a main dealer and also had 2 regens done them.No problems with stalling though. Should I get the car into the dealership. Last time in they told me what you said - regen interrupted - but I never know it is doing a regen (no warning and straight into limp mode)

I’d keep an eye on the number of regenerations you inadvertently interrupt (I make a note of each one).  

 

I’d also flag to the dealer (esp if approaching end of warranty) and mention the fix (depending what and where you read, it could cause more regenerations due to increasing soot output) - and ŠKODA have extended a ‘trust building measure’ to cover issues as a result of the fix.

 

Perhaps also worth trying to get the car out on a regular longer trip to try to allow it to complete a regeneration.  The manual will have specifics on how to do that to cleanse it - something like a 15min+ run at 1800-2500 rpm and in 4/5 gear or sport for dsg.

 

Unfortunately, I now also mainly drive short distances and these issues are what has caused me to buy a new petrol Kodiaq which I am waiting for.

 

hope that helps a bit

 

 

added: see here for Someone else with particulate filter woes. 

 

 

Edited 6 March, 20188 yr by exFiesta

Thamks for 1quick reply, Took it today after hearing the fans running. Did 30 mile dual carriageway trip no stops all over 2000rpm in 5th. Will call at the dealers in next couple of days and have a long chat with them. After 20 plus yeats of golf tdi's and audis plus current yeti I am seriosely thinking petrol engine next. problem is I tow a 16foot caravan and diesels have greater torquue than petrols.

 

4 hours ago, Ajay24 said:

Thamks for 1quick reply, Took it today after hearing the fans running. Did 30 mile dual carriageway trip no stops all over 2000rpm in 5th. Will call at the dealers in next couple of days and have a long chat with them. After 20 plus yeats of golf tdi's and audis plus current yeti I am seriosely thinking petrol engine next. problem is I tow a 16foot caravan and diesels have greater torquue than petrols.

 

The small modern turbo petrol engines drive (lug) like a diesel and the extra fuel cost is small price to pay for not having the diesel liabilities IMO.

There is an app called VAG DPF that goes onto your android smart phone that is very useful - shows you what is happening with the DPF and how it is filling up; AND when a regeneration is about to start and when the regeneration is completed. A like you I do lots of short journeys, but require the diesel engine for easy towing of a caravan, with the app I know when to keep driving to complete a regeneration. A number of folk on this website have the app. It only works for a few engines; but the app is free and you can buy an inexpensive OB2 connector to plug into your car to test it all works. Hope this helps

Thanks for all the help guys. Having trouble finding engine code so will check my vin plate tomorrow. The VW app seems to be untested with the 170 engine. Strange thing is that DVLA class the car as a 150 and so does my insurance company?   Going round in circles.

All sounds pretty familiar I'm afraid - increased frequency of DPF regeneration etc. My experience post EA189 update is detailed here: EA189 Emissions Update - my experience

 

I'd guess your car will be the older 170 BHP TDi? - the engine code will be on a white sticker, along with codes for the cars spec etc. Mine is found in the front of the cars service book (and also under the carpet in the boot).

 

I eventually opted to remap my car, in full knowledge this would preclude me benefitting from Skoda's "trust building" extended cover. 

 

As previously mentioned there is no visible indication a regeneration is taking place (apart from increased tick over) and I occasionally only realise after I've switched off and notice the fans are running. Despite interrupting several regenerations over the years I'm yet to see a DPF warning light, or increases in oil level. 

 

I have the full/paid for VAG DPF app, which is a useful (and inexpensive)  tool when assessing DPF performance. It indicates my DPF is 40% full after 65 k miles. More here: DPF Ash Oil level

 

Good luck resolving this issue

9 hours ago, Ajay24 said:

Thanks for all the help guys. Having trouble finding engine code so will check my vin plate tomorrow. The VW app seems to be untested with the 170 engine. Strange thing is that DVLA class the car as a 150 and so does my insurance company?   Going round in circles.

 

In the boot under the carpet, on the passenger side is a paper label with lots of codes on. That will help you finding out exactly what is fitted to your car. There is an explanation of them all in the other section here.

VIN plate is at the bottom of the windscreen.

Do you have an AdBlue tank in the boot? If yes it is not a 170.

Got so familiar with my Yeti now. If tickover rises to 950 rpm = regen.  Let it do the business. If just parked up notice the residue come out the exhaust when throttle is gently pressed. While driving just don't notice it happening. When tickover returns to normal 750 to 800 rpm regen done. I've avoided the fix because there is nothing to fix. This tickover rise is subtally different to cold weather when it rises to 1000 rpm occasionally or if I'm loading the electrics. Hope this helps.

2015 Yeti L&K 170 Particulate Filter

 

I emailed Skoda support this morning giving details of my VIN Number and asking them to confirm whether my engine is the 170 as advertised or a 150 as stated by the DVLA.

 

MY VIN is  TMBMD75L2G6018668 and using the Biskoda details for how to read Skoda VINs i can't make out engine BHP.but  using Wikipedia the  engine appears to be 125kw meaning it is a 170. so until I get a definite answer from Skoda I am in the dark.

Good news though id that the car is not affected by the EA 189. Attched photos of wikipedia and Skoda Vin details

1 hour ago, Ajay24 said:

 That suggests to me your car is NOT a 170.

 

Do you have an AdBlue tank in the boot?

I thought you could tell from the TDi badge letter colouring! 

2 hours ago, Ajay24 said:

2015 Yeti L&K 170 Particulate Filter

 

I emailed Skoda support this morning giving details of my VIN Number and asking them to confirm whether my engine is the 170 as advertised or a 150 as stated by the DVLA.

 

MY VIN is  TMBMD75L2G6018668 and using the Biskoda details for how to read Skoda VINs i can't make out engine BHP.but  using Wikipedia the  engine appears to be 125kw meaning it is a 170. so until I get a definite answer from Skoda I am in the dark.

Good news though id that the car is not affected by the EA 189. Attched photos of wikipedia and Skoda Vin details

 

Just check in the boot for the sticker, it'll state your engine code. It should also be in the service manual if you got a paper copy.

 

As a 2015, it could be a 150ps EA288 rather than a 170ps EA189. Given the DVLA and insurance both think it's a 150ps, there is a good chance that's the case...

3 minutes ago, langers2k said:

As a 2015, it could be a 150ps EA288 rather than a 170ps EA189. Given the DVLA and insurance both think it's a 150ps, there is a good chance that's the case...

 

Which is why I have asked more than once whether there is an AdBlue tank in the boot!

6 minutes ago, Llanigraham said:

Which is why I have asked more than once whether there is an AdBlue tank in the boot!

 

If enough of us ask the same question in different ways we might find the answer

Has anybody looked at the VIN he put up?
It comes up everywhere as a 2016 car !!

I think you've just confirmed what a few of us have been thinking from the start, that he's got a 150 model.
I hope he knows that he is going to have to fill the AdBlue tank in the boot.

Perhaps his model is the one without a boot ???????????

This will have nothing to do with it,  but try a google of 

 

why did audi ship thousands of cars with the same vin 

First of all-  Yes I doI have an adblue tank and have filled it up twice following warning light.

I am getting so confused trying to sort out my enine .Reply from Skoda received this morning telling me they could not give me the details of the engine they fitted in my yeti.(are they keeping something from me?)

On a skoda yeti vin check site the details came up as a 2016 model with a 125kw engine so I checked under the boot carpet and the detail sticker shows the engine as  110 kw   M6A.

1 - Can anyone translate the details on the attached picture.

2 - Is it possible that the vin code is incorrect

3 - I still have the Arnold Clark advert for the car stating it is a 170 ps (ex demo) car with 10 miles on the clock and if the car is proven   to be a 150 ps what course of action could I take against the seller.

4 - Strange how this post has gone from a DPF problem to an engine size problem just because I wanted to order a bluetooth code reader to read the DPF state on my phone when all I needed was the engine detail to order it.

Getting really angry with the possibility that I have been sold a car wrongly described.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

If you have Adblue it's not a 170, it is a 150hp.