Hi all, new to the forum! having recently purchased a 2004 Fabia vRS in Silver with 135k on the clock i have been slowly getting it back to an acceptable standard. 

 

For the first few weeks the remote central locking was working fine, albeit the passengers side was sticky and required 2 presses of the fob to open most times, and the pin would come up shortly after the rest. 

 

Going to unlock the car this morning and none of the buttons on the fob do anything whatsoever!

 

I managed to unlock the car with they key and the passengers also unlocked fine, since then locking and unlocking using the key the passengers side is now firmly suck and not opening. 

 

I have pulled the fuse for the time being to stop the alarm that activates even if the ignition is switched on as soon as possible. 

 

What i really need to know is whether the passengers door lock unit failing will result in my remote locking not working at all? even the boot release is not working on the fob, i have replaced the fuse to try this. 

 

Thank you in advance for any help!

On 07/03/2018 at 13:47, Vrsfabby said:

Hi all, new to the forum! having recently purchased a 2004 Fabia vRS in Silver with 135k on the clock i have been slowly getting it back to an acceptable standard. 

 

For the first few weeks the remote central locking was working fine, albeit the passengers side was sticky and required 2 presses of the fob to open most times, and the pin would come up shortly after the rest. 

 

Going to unlock the car this morning and none of the buttons on the fob do anything whatsoever!

 

I managed to unlock the car with they key and the passengers also unlocked fine, since then locking and unlocking using the key the passengers side is now firmly suck and not opening. 

 

I have pulled the fuse for the time being to stop the alarm that activates even if the ignition is switched on as soon as possible. 

 

What i really need to know is whether the passengers door lock unit failing will result in my remote locking not working at all? even the boot release is not working on the fob, i have replaced the fuse to try this. 

 

Thank you in advance for any help!

Have you checked the battery in the fob ?

 

 

Normally,1 click on the fob is meant to unlock only the driver's door, 2 clicks unlock the others and the boot.

I think I read that using vag com you can make a change so all doors will unlock on 1 click.

13 hours ago, RADIOTWO said:

Have you checked the battery in the fob ?

 

 

 

Sorry i should have clarified, i have tried 2 brand new batteries and also purchased a new key bottom with matching part number as i only received one key with the car, this has also not worked :( i have tried to link both the new and old key using the method of one in the ignition and one in the drivers door but alas no luck.

 

4 hours ago, PD75 said:

Normally,1 click on the fob is meant to unlock only the driver's door, 2 clicks unlock the others and the boot.

I think I read that using vag com you can make a change so all doors will unlock on 1 click.

 

Thanks for the heads up PD75, all doors were unlocking with 1 click previously so i would presume that somebody had changed it previously. 

 

Would a faulty convenience unit cause any of the symptoms that i am having?

Further to the above, i have fitted a new passengers door lock unit with matching part number and removed all fobs using vcds then re-synced them using the methods described on the ross tech website but still no luck in getting either to remotely talk to the car!

 

Is a convenience unit a plug and play item should i purchase one with matching part numbers?

 

Thanks in advance guys and girls

So i have had the CCM looked into and it is functioning fine. 

 

However a point was raised by the guy looking at it regarding the aftermarket head unit and its connections. 

 

Shortly before the central locking issue i fitted a WinCE double din headunit and had to manually change over the yellow and red wires to ensure that the memory function worked correctly. 

 

Some research has shown that it is possible that the K-Line(?) or Canbus line is being fed 12v and can cause all sorts of issues, including central locking playing up. 

 

The question is, which colour wire is the offending one and does it need to be cut/removed from the ISO loom or the car loom?

 

Thanks

Just to update this thread in case any body has the same issue i did in the future. 

 

I removed pin 3 from the black radio connector which was the self diagnostics line and put everything back in place, then removed the battery terminals for 30 mins. 

 

Once this was done i was able to resync my keys using 1 in the ignition and 1 in the drivers door and hey presto! remote locking working again.