Strange door locking issue

[RobDav99]

Hi all,

 

I know this is quite a common issue and I have searched through a few topics but it seems very complicated and quite confusing and I couldn't find anything that exactly matches my issue.

 

I've only recently noticed my drivers door doesn't lock when the central locking fob is pressed, all the other doors lock but the drivers doesn't. 

 

It will lock manually with the key in the door, this also locks all the other doors if they are not already.

 

Other things going on, which could be a related issue, are:

• Drivers door doesn't bring interior light on.
• Lights on warning doesn't 'bing' when drivers door is open with lights on.
• the electric mirrors are acting funny, it doesn't matter if the knob is turned to L or R the passenger side mirror moves on both.
• The red led next to the drivers lock pin doesn't light up.
• the buttons on the door arm rest work all the doors except the drivers.

 

I've read about water ingress, damaged loom, a controller in the window motor and a main CCU controller? Is that right? Can't believe how complicated it is, and to have those expensive parts located inside the door is crazy?

 

What is the best way for me to look into this issue?

 

Thanks very much.

Rob

Edited 21 March, 2018 by RobDav99

[kentphil1]

Yep, that is correct, the control module is connected to the drivers window motor, and unfortunately the connector to it is at the bottom and canted in such a way that it forms a natural water trap.

 

Normally removing the connector and letting the water drain - yes, there could well be that much inside it - and remaking the connection with dielectric grease will cure the problem, unless it has been left like it for a while and the pins on the module have corroded through.

 

This thread has some useful info for you to work through -

The interior lamp and light warning is probably the lock giving up the ghost, but check the door connecting loom for continuity first as it is a 50/50 shot which it could be, and wire is cheaper than locks.

 

CCU failure is not as common as the others unless you have a leaking windscreen, as it is not in a natural area for water to get to it really.

 

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but to be honest, all cars have their design fopars, just some manufacturers hide them better than others.

Edited 21 March, 2018 by kentphil1

[RobDav99]

thanks for the reply. i'll get the door card off and have a look

[RobDav99]

 

The multi plug going to the window motor is bone dry with very little corrosion, Ive given it a bit of wd40 anyway but thats not fixed it.

 

Found a few strange goings on so far.

 

There are some brown and brown/yellow wires just taped up in the door, near where they come through from the car.

Does anyone know what they do or have a diagram?

 

Also there was a random DIY led just pushed into the terminals for the 109 relay? any ideas what thats for an why someone would do that?

[RobDav99]

Ok so it seems the wiring is all ok, the multi plug to the window motor is ok. 

 

Whats next to try? The window motor controller or the lock actuator? Is there a way to obd test the controller? 

[RobDav99]

Sorry to bump an old thread but still need to get this sorted. 

 

Can i buy a drivers door window motor and controller off any mk4 golf? 

[mac11irl]

@RobDav99

 

Could be a previous owner had been doing some really basic relay function testing/ monitoring to prove a faulty 109 relay was a cause of starting issues? Relay working - led lights up. Relay not working - starting problem and no led..

 

On your main issue, id do the lock mech next, if the cables are all okay. The microswitch issue is stupidly common, and could easily cause the problems. 30quid ebay specials are perfectly fine. Check the part number matches and your happy days.

 

Btw...noone tipped you off... the mirrors moving the way you described is normal (dont ask why, its a stupid and confusing design quirk..)

 

Ps the like is a rep booster.. figure after nearly a year you deserve one

 

[RobDav99]

Thanks for the reply. I'll pickup a lock from ebay. Cheers 

[mac11irl]

Fingers crossed it will sort it

 

[GNPerkins1]

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? You have the identical faults as mine, wires look fine, and changed the door locking mech, but still the same 

[RobDav99]

35 minutes ago, GNPerkins1 said:

Did you ever get to the bottom of this? You have the identical faults as mine, wires look fine, and changed the door locking mech, but still the same 

No I didn't, I've sold the car now. My next step would have been to replace the ecu that is attached to drivers electric window motor. 

[GNPerkins1]

1 minute ago, RobDav99 said:

No I didn't, I've sold the car now. My next step would have been to replace the ecu that is attached to drivers electric window motor. 

Damn, but thanks 

[pikpilot]

An easy thing to check is that there is no break or chafing of the wires in the conduit between the door and the body, especially near the ends.

 

[GNPerkins1]

4 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

An easy thing to check is that there is no break or chafing of the wires in the conduit between the door and the body, especially near the ends.

 

Turns out water had been getting into the 29 pin connector that goes into the window motor/regulator. Pins had corroded and snapped off into the loom. New loom cost £120, but eventually tracked down motor which is specific to the L+K Octavia second hand. Just preying it's ok when it arrives 

[lovemaskoda]

Had the same door symptoms on my mk1,turned out to be the lock microswitch. 

Bought a purpose made microswitch off ebay for a couple of pounds and changed the switch only, everything is ok now.

Just for reference the electrical connections on the old one were ok, it was the actual plunger part that had worn away.

Hope this helps any future Octavia owners.

Dave.

[GNPerkins1]

1 hour ago, lovemaskoda said:

Had the same door symptoms on my mk1,turned out to be the lock microswitch. 

Bought a purpose made microswitch off ebay for a couple of pounds and changed the switch only, everything is ok now.

Just for reference the electrical connections on the old one were ok, it was the actual plunger part that had worn away.

Hope this helps any future Octavia owners.

Dave.

You were lucky. I'm still waiting for the motor, just preying it's all good