Jump to content

2.0 CR TDI (Engine: CFGB 170bhp/125kw ) service advice


Recommended Posts

I am sure this has been asked before but I cannot find the answer.  Can anyone point me in the right direction, please?

 

I am looking to change the oil and cannot find details and am not sure if all 2.0 CR TDI's are the same as they have different engine codes.  I have seen between 3.8 litres and 4.5 litres quoted in various places.  There isn't a Haynes manual for these cars.

 

I have a vacuum oil extractor.  Can anyone advise me whether these work okay with these engines; I know some engines have baffles etc which can prevent the oil being 'completely' extracted. 

 

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GreenGeorge said:

I am sure this has been asked before but I cannot find the answer.  Can anyone point me in the right direction, please?

 

I am looking to change the oil and cannot find details and am not sure if all 2.0 CR TDI's are the same as they have different engine codes.  I have seen between 3.8 litres and 4.5 litres quoted in various places.  There isn't a Haynes manual for these cars.

 

I have a vacuum oil extractor.  Can anyone advise me whether these work okay with these engines; I know some engines have baffles etc which can prevent the oil being 'completely' extracted. 

 

Thanks in advance.

Oil capacity is 4.3 l including the oil filter. Suction devices are ok to use (VAG mention the use of them in the service manual). Make sure the oil is 507 00 specification.

 

You can download the service manuals from the erWin portal in pdf format. An hour's subscription is about 7 gbp and should be enough to get most stuff that you'll need. Well worth the investment if you plan to maintain the vehicle yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't beat pulling a sump plug :)

 

Note that many vehicles suffer from being overfilled with oil.

Often by "Professionals" who simply read the book and pour in the full "dry" amount. Overfilling Is Not Good.

 

If unsure, then pour in 80% - 90%, run the engine then top up to Max as needed. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always measure what I've taken out then use this as the starting point for what goes back in. Always check the dipstick Before I drain to ensure I'm under the full line line.

 

would never use a suction method to remove the oil. I feel that it would never remove all the old oil? 

 

if there is a plug to remove all the old oil that is perfectly situated at the lowest point in the sump I can't understand why you would not use it? Gravity is such a tool, why fight against it?

 

it takes minutes to remove the under tray and then drain the oil, even just using basic car ramps.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can not beat removing the drain plug and that surge of flowing oil which will drag heavy particulates out of the sump.

Oil suckers suck slowly and therefore can not remove them.

Dealers and busy garages use them as it saves having to jack the car up and remove the engine tray, plus being in a rush they may be concerned about ruining the threads on the sump plug socket.

 

Blade group who did the first (and their last) service on my car charged me for a sump plug despite having (according to them sucked the oil)

If they did suck it they sucked very little and then overfilled the car leading me to the conclusion they had just put a litre of fresh oil in it as it was under level when taken in.

An oil laboratory reported  high levels of contaminants in the remaining leaving just two parts per million left before the supposed new oil was exhausted, skoda uk used this information to dismiss my complaint stating my own oil analysis proves the oil wasn't exhausted.

Needless to say I changed the oil immediately and blade group have shown themselves worthy of their reputation.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, gianthotdog said:

 

would never use a suction method to remove the oil. I feel that it would never remove all the old oil? 

 


My C Class has  suction removal as the sump is designed this way with the lowest part for suction actually below the lowest sump plug level....

I use suction to remove all from the superb then remove sump plug last 

This is so you don't have a surge of hot oil
 
 I also use Forte flush in my engines have down from the start and wont stop now....I know there is some that say its overkill but I have had some Ford and Skoda engines up to ridiculous mileages with this practice.B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.