Instrumentboard out!

[Torbo]

I have to switch light bulb for control of main light. Some good ideas for going out the speedometer device?

 

Some other ways til change light bulb?

 

Changed wheel ball bearing yesterday, an turned the disks. Changed brake pads also. 

 checked also the rear, ad the ball bearing vas bad in right side and Wear on left.

Ha order new breaks there to...

[TMB]

Could you explain a bit more please? Not exactly sure what you mean. The lights in the instrument cluster are all LEDs (PLCC-2  SMDs. 3528).

Edited 9 April, 2018 by TMB

[TMB]

To remove instrument cluster, lower the steering wheel to the lowest position and pull out this trim piece...

 

 

Then remove the two Torx screws...

 

 

Ease the cluster out at top and once it's out enough, remove the two connector plugs. The green plug has a swinging type catch on it.

 

To dismantle the cluster see here...

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Skoda-Fabia-mk1-LED-dashboard-lighting-conversion/

Edited 9 April, 2018 by TMB

[Torbo]

Thanks! The blue light for headlights don't work. You say it is LED... Then its not easy? Something else thats wrong? The LEDs is normally not a problem...

So now I'm confused....

 

Edited 10 April, 2018 by Torbo

[Breezy_Pete]

Quite possibly a broken solder joint at pin 2 of the green 32-way connector on the circuit board.

[Torbo]

Thanks! So then its may be smart to take out the dashboard anyway? Take a look? Yesterday I had luck whit the heater resistor on my VW Camper..Changed the fuse (140 degress) fuse. Nice job... 1 pound in cost.

 

[Torbo]

I took the panel out, but I colt not se anything wrong? 

May be I shall check the solder joint at pin 2 again?

 

I that a normal problem?

 

Edited 10 April, 2018 by Torbo

[Breezy_Pete]

I would just re-flow that joint with some more flux-cored solder.  I've never heard of this fault before, but there seem to be quite a few problems with the immobiliser signal, of which some are solved by re-flowing the joints at pins 1 and 17.  Pin 2 being next to pin 1, it's not hard to imagine the same kind of vibration of the loom, or whatever causes the failure of the joints of pins 1 and 17 also affecting this one.

As you say, LEDs are usually very reliable so it seems more likely to be a wire, connection or solder joint that is the problem. 

Edited 10 April, 2018 by Wino

[TMB]

6 hours ago, Torbo said:

Thanks! The blue light for headlights don't work. You say it is LED... Then its not easy? Something else thats wrong? The LEDs is normally not a problem...

So now I'm confused....

 

 

It's definitely not easy, the LEDs are tiny and not easy to solder but it can be done. The LEDs do sometimes fail but as wino says, it could just be a solder joint.

[Johnnynapalm]

I'd go for it being a solder joint as above. Had the same and bit of extra solder cured it 

[Johnnynapalm]

May as well do them all while it's out. Very satisfying.

[Torbo]

Brake news! Many rusted bolts! I had to take a walk to the river new my house to relax after had jobs!  A bear and many births and animals around me.. That helped... Small torx screws on sensor and on the wheelsylider. They brake, but I fixed it...

[Torbo]

And my cat Skippy was following...

Edited 11 April, 2018 by Torbo

[TMB]

Lovely cat

 

Will it affect the ABS sensor that you've sprayed paint on it?

[Torbo]

22 hours ago, TMB said:

Lovely cat

 

Will it affect the ABS sensor that you've sprayed paint on it?

I don't think the pant have some affect, but I will take the paint off anyway. New cylinders and pads/band will also come on. Ha have  new sensors but I think I use the old one? 

 

About the blue light on dashboard I will use a 5 mm led lamp and a zenerdiode i serie and put it on the lithe plate just under the instrument, 5 cm from the glass (instrument unit) aganínst the steering wheel. Get zenerdiodes yesterday.

 

The old ble led lamp has allways light very strong, so I always think it was a bad product?

 

To morrow I will by a steering pump - TRW from a little lysed car. 90 000 km on speedometer. Hope this will fix the warning lamp on dashboard? So the car is nearly new soon!

 

Yesterday I get some sylinderheads til Volvo PV /Duett. I will fix an sell. 

 

In the winter I sold two separate sylinderheads and two engines ovehaled (renewed) with valve seals on. That isn't original, so the engines not use oil after this. Another engine Im working on will now get a 285 degrees camshaft fixed 1,5 and 3 degrees  (on crank) forward and better compression, from 8,7:1 to 9,5:1. Cant make more here since set 98 octane gasoline is not i sale many places. Two SU carburetor so I hope this will work. The owner shall drive som rally - in Monte Carlo and some other places. about 25 more horsepower, an higher torque. 

This is the eccect of setting the cam forward: It don't loco much, but the present is good. The green an purple curves will work I think?

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Torbo]

I can get en new speedometer/ instrument panel for 20 pound. Good price, but du I have to program right milage on it after changing, or is the right km in the main computer? 

 

[Torbo]

New problem! The left rear side door will not open! 

No chanse! I tried everything to day!

Checked the contacts and they was on place...

 

[TMB]

The instrument cluster contains the electronics for the immobiliser. You can't just swap a used cluster in unless you get it programmed. Also the mileage would have to be programmed.

Edited 17 April, 2018 by TMB

[Breezy_Pete]

Also radio code I think (I might have read somewhere).

[TMB]

^ Oh yes.

[Torbo]

4 hours ago, TMB said:

The instrument cluster contains the electronics for the immobiliser. You can't just swap a used cluster in unless you get it programmed. Also the mileage would have to be programmed.

Thanks! Not a good idea to change then!? I will put av blue led in the senter of the dashboard instead. two zener diodes in serie to get 11,5 volt , and the diode in the end.

Hope that will work.

 

But now I have door problem - the side door of passenger will not open! Is it a idea to disconnect the wires in B-pillar and try manually?

Edited 17 April, 2018 by Torbo

[Torbo]

I was waiting for brake parts. brake tube then I saw it lacquer brake fluid on the floor. Took off the brake pipe and found corrosion! Checked on the other side too, but there was the tube ok. Also changed a brake hose.

[TMB]

Hmmm, not good

[Torbo]

New copper tube is in place now. Do any know if it is possible to take the door out with loosen the nuts on B pillar? 

Trouble to get the inner part of the door with the door closed.

[TMB]

8 hours ago, Torbo said:

Do any know if it is possible to take the door out with loosen the nuts on B pillar? 

Trouble to get the inner part of the door with the door closed.

 

I don't think you'd be able to do it like that. Even if you somehow detached the door from tbe B pillar it would still be locked to the door catch.

 

Have a look at this...

 

 

 

 

Edited 22 April, 2018 by TMB