Cambelt Guide?

[Edward92]

I know there's a guide in the 'guides section' and I do have a Haynes but the pics area dead now, I was wondering if anyone knows a video or picture tutorial, so I can do a walkthrough in my head before I give it an attempt?

 

Thanks

[sepulchrave]

It's pretty easy, but you must lock the crank and the cam pulley so make sure you have the crank lock tool and a locking pin, no timing issues if it all stays locked up.

 

Jack it up on axle stands, remove O/S/F wheel and arch liner.

 

Drop coolant into a bowl, so you can pour it back in at the end.

 

Remove aux belt.

 

Support engine and completely remove O/S engine mount.

 

Remove cambelt covers, remove tension from the belt and remove it.

 

Loosen both locking bolts in the cam pulley so it can turn, remove idlers, tensioner and water pump, replace them all.

 

Fit new belt, pull keeper from new tensioner, tighten cam pulley lock bolts.

 

Pull locks from crank and cam, turn engine two full revs by hand, relock the crank, check the lock pin slides back into the cam pulley, if not loosen pulley locking bolts and move pulley with a spanner until it goes in, re-tighten pulley lock bolts.

 

Pull the locks and put it all back together, drive into sunset.

[Edward92]

Thank you very much, this is very helpful! How long does it take you personally? My dad has done them on his old Citroens but not for a long while, and I’m yet to attempt,

 

Thank you!

[sepulchrave]

6 minutes ago, Edward92 said:

Thank you very much, this is very helpful! How long does it take you personally? My dad has done them on his old Citroens but not for a long while, and I’m yet to attempt,

 

Thank you!

 

If it's your first rodeo, put aside the whole day so you can take your time and take pictures as you go, you'll need 18mm socket and spanner as well as the locking tools and some normal tools, arch liner is Torx fasteners T20 probably, can't remember.

 

Be methodical, lay everything out neatly, make sure you have everything to hand, access is tight even with the engine mount removed, there is a special tool available for the tensioner pulley but a 6mm Allen key works from memory.

 

Get a complete Gates cambelt kit with water pump and all the pulleys. Get the old man to make the tea and point at stuff, he won't want to get dirty.

[Edward92]

Thanks, does it need to be Gates specifically? I was going to collect a Dayco (I think it was) one, still with waterpump etc

[sepulchrave]

43 minutes ago, Edward92 said:

Thanks, does it need to be Gates specifically? I was going to collect a Dayco (I think it was) one, still with waterpump etc

 

My preference is for Gates by experience, I've found the tensioner assembly with Dayco kits to be very chintzy, the rest is adequate.

If you've already bought it then fit it, just be mindful that the tensioner is made from a special grade of steel called chinesium which requires extra care when fitting.

[Edward92]

Okay, no hadn't already got it, It's probably worth me looking for a Gates one then! Greatly appreciate the advice! 

[lupoluke]

Might be worth noting that the engine mount bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced.

 

I also prefer to took the bottom of the mount out of the way rather than remove it. 

 

Id also get a torque wrench if you don’t already have one.  

 

 

[sepulchrave]

2 minutes ago, lupoluke said:

Might be worth noting that the engine mount bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced.

 

I also prefer to took the bottom of the mount out of the way rather than remove it. 

 

Id also get a torque wrench if you don’t already have one.  

 

 

 

Not necessary, they say EVERY bolt on the car is a one-use bolt for arse-covering, these bolts are massive, high-tensile and really not that tight. Stretch bolts are waisted like head bolts, these are not. I've done a few.

[lupoluke]

I’m just going off what the manual states. 

 

I have done a few also, reusing the old bolts and like your self I’ve never had a problem, but I always advise them to be replaced for the sake of a few quid they cost I would do them personally. 

[sepulchrave]

9 minutes ago, lupoluke said:

I’m just going off what the manual states. 

 

I have done a few also, reusing the old bolts and like your self I’ve never had a problem, but I always advise them to be replaced for the sake of a few quid they cost I would do them personally. 

 

I know, the reason is the Greenkote conformal coating is one-use, once the fastening is disturbed they can no longer guarantee the corrosion resistance and low-friction torque setting unless the bolt is replaced.

 

It's all about best practice, the non-approved repairer has more freedom to exercise common sense, if the bolt isn't damaged then it's perfectly safe to re-use with a drop of copaslip on the thread to ease insertion.

[lupoluke]

I didn’t know that was the reason I just always assumed they were stretch bolts with the angle after the torque,  you would be surprised how many dealers don’t fit new bolts especially with the fixed pricing, how ever if they ever go wrong warranty would kick it out and the dealer would be left with the bill.

 

 

id still rather replace tho for a sake of a few quid but that’s just me.  

[KeithCheetham]

Photos missing, but:-

 

Changing timing belt and water pump on a Fabia Vrs with engine code ASZ.pdf

[Titanium_Man]

PM me your email address and I will send you a PDF with pics to change the cambelt. 

[Damo152003]

If  this is your first time make sure you get all your information first.

like said set a whole day for your first time. 

I think the hardest thing you will find is actually getting the belt on. 

I have done hundreds of these and my tip is leave the pin in the tensioner and turn it fully clockwise tighten the nut. Fit the belt finishing at the water pump. Then loosen the tensioner and remove the pin and now tension as normal. Make sure prior to this you loosen the three 13mm camshaft pulley bolts. 

Best of luck but if you aren’t sure go to your local garage. What is your location? 

[Edward92]

Thanks everyone for the feedback, does anyone know where the best place for a Gates kit is? Thought i'd found one and rang to order but it was £125; And I'm based in Hull!

 

 

[Titanium_Man]

After a failed Dayco water pump and a Gates cambelt snapping, I won’t be using anything other than OEM. 

 

I’m sure I will get a bit of flack for this, but neither are up to the task in my recent experience. 

[bspman]

I'm of the opinion that for the sake of a few quid it's worth using new bolts. A few stories of engine mounts failing has put me off skimping on the few quid needed.

Edited 11 April, 2018 by bspman

[sepulchrave]

2 hours ago, jars said:

After a failed Dayco water pump and a Gates cambelt snapping, I won’t be using anything other than OEM. 

 

I’m sure I will get a bit of flack for this, but neither are up to the task in my recent experience. 

 

You've been unlucky, I don't blame you for sticking with OEM after those experiences, however your sample size is rather small for meaningful statistical conclusions to be drawn. OEM is desirable but not always affordable.

I generally compromise by using an OEM tensioner with a Gates belt and pattern water pump and idlers.

 

2 hours ago, bspman said:

I'm of the opinion that for the sake of a few quid it's worth using new bolts. A few stories of engine mounts failing has put me off skimping on the few quid needed.

 

You make a perfectly reasonable point, however since these are not stretch bolts I fail to see how you can attribute a metalastic bonding failure to re-use of the bolts.

[Titanium_Man]

I get what you’re saying, but an extra £100 or so every four years is better than the risk of engine damage that could be 10x the saving achieved. Both failures I’ve experienced were different  times. 

 

We are all in a different financial position and therefore are able to work out our own risk vs reward. Just not worth it IMO and experience. 

[Damo152003]

I can get gen cambelt and pump for 140 do you know anyone in the trade locally? If not pm me 

[bspman]

2 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

 

You make a perfectly reasonable point, however since these are not stretch bolts I fail to see how you can attribute a metalastic bonding failure to re-use of the bolts.

 

I'm also not sure maybe they over-tightened them? *shrugs*

 

Both the local VW specialist and family friend said no point - but if you want to we can replace them.

Edited 11 April, 2018 by bspman

[Edward92]

Hi guys,  Thanks all for the input, ended up getting a gates kit with pump for £122 from a local parts place nearby; in total it took around   8/9ish? hours, we had started at 10, then I had to leave for work (only an hour and a half) then helped do the final bits of putting back together once I got back. Now running nicely and smoothly

[Damo152003]

Brilliant, I did mine today took me an hour 10 mins but it is my trade lol

[Edward92]

That's so quick! And somewhat demoralisng  But I did have to build axle stands and bodge/ find a few other pieces midway through