KeithCheetham

Suggest you look at the reviews of the Kingbolen Ediag Elite which runs via an app on your phone. This has free lifetime updates, where other such as my previous Topdon may charge a yearly fee for updates. This should do the diagnostics as well as reset.

May be worth looking at real time data reading. I have used Torque app on an Android phone which allowed me to review boost pressure. You must remember that the car should be pulling when reading boost rather than just revving while stationary.

As far as I am aware, and having replaced a cluster in a mk2 on a like for like replacement - not an upgrade - VCDS will not retrieve the SKC? 4 digit code from both the cluster which you need to swap a cluster for which I used VAG KEY. I then used VCDS for the swap itself. Also, unsure of compatibility as yours is a Mk2 where I think the VRS was classed as a Mk2 facelift.

Starting point with background for swap. Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki I am not sure that even a genuine VCDS will give access to the cluster code. I changed the cluster in my 58 plate 1.4TDI Greenline, but used VAG Key to pull the new and old instrument panel codes although this has a high price. What is the issue with your original panel, and could this be causing the no log-in/read? VAG Key Login Instructions.pdf Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki.pdf

Sorry for late reply but did not see question. Mine came from AliExpress a long time ago, but searching on there using "vag key login pin code reader" price appears prohibitive at around £70 to which tax etc will be added. Bit more info at New VAG Key Login Pin code & key learning vehicle list Unsure if there is an alternate product at a more realistic price. VAG Key Login Instructions.pdf

Starting point with background for swap. Immobilizer - Ross-Tech Wiki You may have to pull data of the old and new cluster, but the above page has hyperlinks for requirements. Only done an instrument swap myself on a 2008 Mk2 fabia so no actual experience on a Mk1, but had to use a tool called VAG Key to pull code off both cluster.

Had this on a 2006 1.4TDI classic that I used to own, was the gearbox input shaft bearing. When you put your foot on the clutch in neutral, the gearbox input shaft stops rotating - the flywheel and pressure plate that are attached to the engine so continue to rotate while the friction plate that is fixed to the gearbox input shaft stops rotating. For me it was a used gearbox to fix.

The 1.2TDI map, to the best of my knowledge. cannot be downloaded with MPS, and I also do not think that EDC15 would work for reading/writing into the map. There are probably professional remappers that can advise on what is possible with this later ECU.

Bit late if going in tomorrow but are you sure it has been doing a regen of the DPF. On my Greenline the exhaust note takes a deeper note when doing a regen but does not indicate anything on the instruments. Had an issue a few years ago of not re-gening during the colder months due to a thermostat stuck open so never getting to required temp to initiate a regen. Lack of temp gauge (only blue light that extinguishes at around 45 deg.C), only identified by running Torque app on phone via a bluetooth OBD adaptor. DPF clean can be done yia an aerosol spray down the larger of the 2 pipes on the differential pressure switch accessible top rear of engine on drivers side. Theory - increased back pressure from blocked DPF would stop flowing as much exhaust gas reducing boost. Where the below says Vacuum this changes to boost pressure in psi generally showing around 18psi at full boost.

A 1.4TDI Greenline model, which is an "economy" version with the model 2 trim, higher gearing and some other mods such as aerodynamic body mods, does have a DPF, the trim models 1, 2 and 3 do not.

1st thing to do is get the car scanned with a Audi/VW/Skoda compatible OBD reader. Fall off in performance under load may point to blocked DPF or even exhaust silencer. I would suggest as a cheap starting point trying one of the aerosol DPF cleaners, I have used one branded as Simple which involved taking the larger - in the case of my 1.4 TDI Greenline - pipe off the DPF differential pressure switch and spraying the product down that line. There could also be an issue with the differential pressure switch itself if it is not seeing an increased pressure differential pressure across the DPF which I understand is what triggers the regen.

Sounds like broken wires in the door to body bellows. With the door open, can you put something in the door lock to latch it, making the car think the door is shut, then wriggle the bellows with the ignition on.

There appears to be an option to change the weighting in VCDS

"there is an adjustment for that brightness or lack thereof?" Unsure if you are confirming that you know about the scroll wheel at the side of the light switch to adjust brightness, but I would not expect all LED's to generally fail at the same time which is why I am questioning your statement.

Looking on Ebay there do appear to be only 2 fasteners. Unsure if you mean nuts removed but the studs appear to have an option to screw them out of the actuator using an allen key which may allow some twisting to remove. The centre boss could be corroded into the mount so some lubricant may assist. The example below is not specifically for your car, just a general review. TURBO WASTEGATE ACTUATOR 03F145725K Fits For VW AUDI SEAT SKODA 1.2TSI 11.6cm UK | eBay

Starting point - waiting to take a brave pill and remove mine as bearing squeeeeeling. Is yours a Fabia 1 as my Greenline is basically a Fabia 2 spec wise and has doors on top and bottom dash storage.

Unplug and then us a paperclip in the socket attached to the car wiring to bridge the 2 terminals, turn the ignition on and look if the reverse light is on. If you have the use of a multimeter it is possible to check for continuity across the wiring tabs in the switch when reverse is selected.

I have used the following - purchased through Ebay at the time but now identified their website - in the past with no issues. Scrapper you do not know what you are getting. J&R Trading - J&R Trading (UK) Ltd (jandrcvjoints.co.uk)

This is something that I did not have to do, I just used the SKU code retrieved from original/existing clusters, so your method may be an alternate one. The only issue that I had was that I could not correct the mileage in the replacement cluster.

It is not that easy - wish it was as a cluster only cost me £10 on Ebay - but take yours out to look for a part number to ensure compatibility, mine being the Greenline has DPF light (yours being Greenline may be the same - no temp gauge only blue light). I have a 58 plate Mk2 and due to outside temp and fuel gauge issues, which Breezy Pete identified as an issue on the circuit board, I had to install a 2nd hand cluster. This requires having the SKU? 4 digit code which may be on a tag with the car documents, or extracting the details - I used an OBD plug in reader called Vag Key Login - which allowed me to read/extract off the existing cluster, and allow me to extract off the replacement cluster by plugging into the car (car will not start as the immobiliser is built into the cluster so keys will not be matched to it). You then need VagCom, other software may suit, write details into the replacement cluster. This is matching the cluster to the ECU and matching the keys to the cluster. I think the below were the methods I followed - not 100% sure as I have also saved Immobilizer III methods which can be found a same location. Immobilizer IV Immobilizer Swapping (Instrument Cluster) - Ross-Tech Wiki Immobilizer IV Key Matching - Ross-Tech Wiki

Thinking that this may be based on a brake light bulb having a 12v supplied constantly with the earth (-ve) being applied through the brake light switch when the pedal is actuated to allow the bulb to light up. Breezy_Pete may be able to advise if this is applicable on the Fabia.

Are these the type with just a sounder or with a visual display of distance on the dash, and is it a rear only or rear plus front kit? May sound daft, but it may be worth wiring up temporarily with the blue, yellow and red all connected to the + reversing light cable and the ground to the - reversing light cable. I cannot think of a reason for connecting a brake light wire up. I understand that some cars with CANBUS may have needed a relay with a feed from a 12V as it is understood only 5V passes down a line, but how this operates a 12v revering light bulb is strange. I have fitted a few sets to Mk1 Fabias, my current 58 plate Fabia and my daughters 61 plate Polo and they have all only had/needed 2 wires connecting to the reversing light powering the sensors and its control box. Update - Just seen an advert on Ebay 8 Sensors Parking Reverse Front and Rear Car Parking Sensors Display Buzzer Kit | eBay showing 8 sensor system, also mentioning brake light connection but still unsure why. NOTE that in the pictures in the advert there is a red box containing the text shown in the attachment. May be worth connecting sensors to control box before fitting, laying sensors out to final positions of front and rear, wiring to positive and negative on car or spare battery and just testing operation before you start drilling bumpers and laying out rear (control box position) to front sensor wiring inside car.

Fuse socket Fabia (FAB) 2011 year Skoda EUROPA 915000 (7zap.com) Item 20 possibly.

I would suggest looking at the following link showing item 17 which is probably the reverse switch in 2 possible positions. Depending on the actual issue, if it is only the reverse lights do not work, on mine I pulled the plug and used a paper clip in the wiring loom plug which operated the reversing lights with the ignition on. Leaving the plug disconnected temporarily while driving would test if other issues present. Switches and senders on engine and gearbox Roomster (RO) 2008 year Skoda EUROPA 919040 (7zap.com)

Random suggestion, but if you have a set of jump leads, try using one from the battery negative post to metal on the engine during a start. The battery earth terminal is only grounded via the single stud on the inner wing and a cold start would give a heavy current draw which may cause issues if there is corrosion. Due to the possibility of this issue, I fitted an extra lead from this point to the engine although corrosion in the battery to earth lead would negate any advantages.