Hi everyone,

about 3 years ago I got great help from this site when I replaced the engine on a Mark1 Fabia due to a blown

head gasket. After being a totally reliable since the engine was replaced, the car recently ran low in coolant, overheated and now has a blown gasket I suspect.

Although the car is 18 years old, I would really like to keep it going for another 3 months till the tax, insurance and NCT run out.

Question : Is it possible to do a head gasket relatively cheaply by doing it myself? Do the head bolts have to be replaced? Does the head always have to be skimmed once I know for certain

it is not warped or cracked? Where would I get the torque values and sequences?

Basically, is this economically worth doing as the car generally has been very reliable or should I just cut my losses and scrap it now.

Any help or advise would be really appreciated, thanks.

 

 

 

 

1.4 MPI engine?

If so, is the current gasket a TEMAC one? (Written on an overhanging bit of gasket, front edge, nearside).

You'll get away without replacing the bolts, less likely to get away without a skim, unless the gasket isn't a Temac.  Non-Temac originals were prone to failing for some reason.

Apparently an easy job on this engine if all the bolts come out OK.

Edited 11 June, 20188 yr by Wino

Yes, 1.4 mpi. Local dealership has quoted me 20euros for the head gasket, is that likely to be be a TEMAC? Pleasantly surprised with the price as a spurious one from local motor factors was 10 euro dearer.

 

Just took my wife's cylinder head off and a bolt snapped in the engine, can't get it out so breaking the car now but I paid £20 for a temac gasket from Skoda.

Edited 11 June, 20188 yr by retro

21 minutes ago, transfreeze said:

is that likely to be be a TEMAC

Yep, I don't think a dealership will sell you anything else.

 

Instructions and torque figures are here and the following pages: https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/drive_unit/1.0/37;_1.4/44;_1.4/50_kw_mpi_engine/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/removing_and_installing_cylinder_head/summary_of_components/

Edited 11 June, 20188 yr by Wino

@transfreeze - Unless you're tuning the engine, the only reasons for skimming the head are if it is corroded and/or warped. At 3 years from a previous replacement I don't think it should be corroded.

Edited 11 June, 20188 yr by KenONeill
typed wrong cause of failure as unlikely!

Thanks for all the helpful comments, and to Wino for the link.

Like what happened to Retro, I'm terrified of snapping a head bolt.

Any hints on lessening the likelihood of that happening - would an impact gun help { or worsen } the situation ?

23 minutes ago, transfreeze said:

Thanks for all the helpful comments, and to Wino for the link.

Like what happened to Retro, I'm terrified of snapping a head bolt.

Any hints on lessening the likelihood of that happening - would an impact gun help { or worsen } the situation ?

An impact gun would worsen the situation, I was very careful with a breaker bar and applied steady pressure and it snapped due to corrosion in the bolt itself quite far down in the block. 

 

Also I would recommend getting the head checked if it needs to be skimmed as it can look fine and be warped so no point risking it.

Get the head skimmed, if it's been overheated it will have warped, that's how the HG blew, heads don't go back to being dead straight just because they cooled down.

 

You can't measure it for truth, that's a myth, the only way to be certain is to have it flycut.

Just a quick update on this topic. I decided to go ahead and do the head gasket myself but was really apprehensive of head bolts breaking.

Decided to use 3/4 inch breaker bar as I thought there was too much flex on a 1/2 inch. I 'shocked' each bolt by tapping numerous times.

This certainly helped, as two of the bolts weren't budging but by repeatedly tapping they finally came loose without snapping the bolt.

Took the head to a reputable machine shop and was told it needed skimming. He also replaced 4 core plugs which are notorious for leaking on this particular head ( and

pressure tested)

I am a bit uneasy about refitting the rocker shaft without releasing the adjustment screws but this is the advice given on the link kindly given to me by Wino.

PS I squeezed all oil out of the cam followers, will the tappets adjust automatically when oil pressure is established? Anything else I need to do before starting the engine?

Great job so far!

I defer to MPI experts for your questions.