Hi everyone,

 

As a new owner of Favorit (I' m 22, and earlier I didn't drive anything similar), I'd like to ask you about some specs of Favorit in general.

 

My car was built in 1991 July, has got a 1.3 litre engine with Jikov 28-30 LEKR carburetor and 58 horsepower. It is "L" specs, but it has an rev counter, rear wiper with sprinkler (not working, pump has only one stub pipe and I must replace it). 

 

My plan is going around 3500 km: from Poland to Greece and come back in one piece. I have a new timing chain, new water pump, new vacuum pipes, new spark plugs and wires, valve adjustment. Car has liquid gas installation (LPG), it works almost properly. I need to replace alternator (from Felicia, Magneton 70A, I have 55A with weak charging) and I think that will be the end of investment for today. 

 

My question is - which parts of the car will be most problematic with such a long voyage? What about yours' impressions about car? How about suspension, will it fit without bigger problem from Felicia? I read forum and I saw that shock absorbers are different. If is it possible, I want to have a stronger, harder suspension without wobbling.

 

That's all, I hope that I wrote everything clearly.

Hi Bartek

Having a Favorit with 97500 km on board is good news. You shouldn't have problems. The engine is reliable, the gearbox too. You've changed most parts that needed to be changed.

 

You didn't mention the clutch. If it's the factory one on the car, I would replace the clutch kit. You'll thank me when climbing with a car full of luggage.

 

The fluids and filters. Brake fluid, coolant, engine oil, gearbox oil. Put fresh fluids/filters.

 

Tyres and spare tyre. It's vital to have best tyres you can afford. Sometimes we forget the entire car rolls on them... on hot, cold, bumps, holes, rain, snow, etc.

 

Brakes. Good disks/brake pads in the front and good drum/shoes in the back.

 

Check for any leaks. Oil, coolant, brake fluid. The bolt and nuts of the fuel pump have the bad habit to unscrew by themselves. Torque them.

Thank you for exact question.

 

Today my mechanic replaced timing chain and water pump (both were very exhausted). Also, I bought new 10W40 oil and pack of filters, I changed coolant fluid and set up valves. Unfornutanely, my mechanic said that the ingition device is broken and I must replace it also. 

 

I changed tyres to new Nexen 175/70/13 (original size 165 is more and more difficult to find).

 

Thank you for all advices, especially for clutch and fuel pump. Clutch was replaced before I bought car (I have all bills from previous owner).

 

I want to ask a question about engine - as i read, there were two types of engine - 135 and 136, in manual which i have there is a mention that these engines vary only with pistons (135 has a recess, 136 flat). Is it possible to change pistons from 136? Are they only differences? I'd like to have a little more power, because I will go to Greece with 3 another person and luggage, every horsepower is important.

I would not bother myself for gaining 4 HP at 5000 (!) rpm...

Yes, 135 and 136 only differ in recess, which lowers CR from 9.5 to 8.8. 135 was developed from 136 to work with 91 octane fuel.

You can skim head to achieve higher CR. 

There was also 136X variant, with different camshaft timing, which achieved 50kW. Another few HPs can be gained by switching to Felicia MPI head, which has larger valves.

 

I think that most problematic part will be cooling system. Thermoswitch for fan is not extra reliable part in these cars, so it's advisable to make extra switch for case of malfunction. It also helps to keep car cool in traffic. 

 

Also these engines are prone to head gasket failure. Was coolant clear and of right type?

 

Edit: about suspension, if i recall corectly, there's difference in spring length between Favorit and Felicia, so shock absorbers have different position of spring mount. If you use whole unit from Felicia, it should work. I think that hardest front springs can be found on 1.3 pickup, rear can be stiffed by additional sway bar from Felicia hatchback.

Edited 27 June, 20187 yr by Papez

Thank you all for your advices! When I prepare my car to the end, I will show off my Favorit for sure  

On 6/27/2018 at 10:06, Papez said:

There was also 136X variant, with different camshaft timing, which achieved 50kW.

Can you summarize the differences between 781.135 and 781.136X ?

It is 136, so it has flat pistons and 9,7 CR, same as std.

 

Additionally, 136X has different camshaft timing, ignition distributor with different timing regulation and different carburetor settings.  Sadly, I can't find exact numbers, only camshaft timing - 248/248 (compared to 240/230 of std 136) and parameters - 50kW/5000RPM and 105Nm/3500RPM.

Ok, I have some new info about my car.

 

Today I received Favorit from mechanic, who changed timing chain, water pump, checked valves and filled engine with new 10w40 oil. Also he cleaned ingition device. After that, my Skoda goes like two times stronger car! It pulls well from idle to 3500 rpm, after that unfortunately engine loses power and maximum speed decreased from ~160 to 130-140 km/h. Car is much faster at low and mid rpms, but at higher is slower. Engine runs smoothly. Do you know any posibilities, what may cause that issue? Is it a carburetor settings problem?

1 hour ago, sagitarius said:

maximum speed decreased from ~160 to 130-140 km/h

It is not clear. Did you test the maximum speed before repair and it was 160 km/h? Or are you just asking based on what you read about Favorit performance?

 

1 hour ago, sagitarius said:

Also he cleaned ingition device.

What device and cleaning for what?

Edited 30 June, 20187 yr by RicardoM

Earlier I tested my Favorit on autobahn, and it could go to 170-172 on speedometer (circa 163-4 on GPS), now I hardly get downhill 150 on speedo. Car is faster from lower rpms, above 3000-3500 accelerating decrease. 

 

I couldn't find exact word for it, I mean ingition distributor? Maybe better word. It was a problem with it, because distributor didn't change advance timing angle (also trouble with vacuum). Now it's ok, angle is correct also, car goes the same on petrol and gas (LPG), but much slower.

If you didn't touch the carburetor, it's the distributor that is not working properly OR the ignition timing is not properly set. Bad timing at high rpm is enough to lose power.

Do you know, what ignition timing was set before repair? Since it's 135, its default timing is set for 91 octane fuel. For 95 and LPG, ignition timing should be increased. 

 

Also was distributor replaced by original or by some chinese ****? Chinese ones are known for not being able to hold settings properly

Distributor replaced to original, angle changed once again to correct position and now Skoda works well. It has now a lot of power () and runs smoothly from 1800 to 5500 rpms. I'm really impressed, because earlier I don't have much time riding older cars and the Favorit after repairs is very friendly car. Thank you all for your help and I'll tell you more after about my adventures with this wonderful classy car.  

Hello all! 

 

I had a new problem with Favorit recently. After all repairings I drove to the city by autobahn. After few kilometers coolant temperature raised to very high level. Fan runs correctly, so I checked thermostat. It runs properly too, but... Someone earlier didn't have any gasket and glued it on silicone... Silicone without temperature resistance. All radiator hoses, radiator with parts of silicone...   In Tuesday I will clean all hoses and radiator and we will see, if it will help. 

 

Best regards  

@sagitarius {Multiple censored!} I've replaced thermostat gaskets with pieces cut to shape from old breakfast cereal boxes on similar (design) age engines before. There should be no need to use sealant on hose connectors if you use proper hose clips!

Okay, I have a big problem with car. I have new coolant, thermostat and radiator, earlier I flushed all twice and cleaned any dirt from old fluid. When I'm driving slower, everything is ok, but when I accelerate up to 120 km/h, temperature grow fast and goes to the red zone on the clock. The same situation on petrol and GPL. I don't know what to do... 

If the coolant temperature indication is OK,

If the lubrication system is OK,

If the cooling system is OK,

If there is no excessive load on the car,

If the ignition advance is not too retarded,

If the air/fuel mixture is not too lean...

 

then you are looking at:

• a head gasket issue OR
• worn crankshaft bearings OR
• other internal engine damage

Just to worn you 
Wanting to get proper old skoda repair in greece is like searching for a needle in the hay
You WILL NEVER get it

@Thefeliciahacker

Original poster lives in Poland. What has that got to do with the situation in Greece?

14 hours ago, RicardoM said:

If the coolant temperature indication is OK,

If the lubrication system is OK,

If the cooling system is OK,

If there is no excessive load on the car,

If the ignition advance is not too retarded,

If the air/fuel mixture is not too lean...

 

then you are looking at:

• a head gasket issue OR
• worn crankshaft bearings OR
• other internal engine damage

One more thing: the air flow through radiator should not be restricted. Also it is very important that the shroud/air guide around radiator is present.

21 hours ago, RicardoM said:

@Thefeliciahacker

Original poster lives in Poland. What has that got to do with the situation in Greece?

from Poland to Greece
If something happens while in Greece

Thanks for advices. I thought that the head gasket failure is not possible, because my mechanic tested with gas tester in coolant system and there was clear. I drove yesterday about 300 kilometers and Skoda's engine run ok, but after 100 km/h or higher hill temperature increased to the end of white area of indicator (about 100-105 C*) and cooled down after hill, so I slowed down and arrived home without high temperature. But today I found that there was no coolant in reservoir, so I added some and drive about 20 kilometers. Then all coolant blew up by cap and temperature run up highly. So, @RicardoM, your opinion about head gasket failure is right. I bought new part (I asked for better quality, so I bought Victor Reinz gasket) and I must change it, of course with planning cylinder head. 

 

If I have 135 version with grooved pistons, could I plan the cylinder head more for increase compression ratio to 136 version (8,8 vs 9,7), or is it non recommended?

44 minutes ago, sagitarius said:

I thought that the head gasket failure is not possible, because my mechanic tested with gas tester in coolant system and there was clear.

That is a very unreliable test. In theory it should work but YouTube is full of disappointed customers. I'd buy a kit only from a reliable engine manufacturer.

 

48 minutes ago, sagitarius said:

I bought new part (I asked for better quality, so I bought Victor Reinz gasket)

Good call for Victor Reinz.

 

There is a groove on the edge of the head that indicates the limit for skimming.

You will get a compression ratio increase but you will not benefit too much from it unless you change the camshaft and readjust the ignition timing to get the 'sweet spot' of performance.

There are a couple of good topics with photos about head gasket job in this section. I recommend creating a new topic to document the job in detail for all to see.