Pretty straightforward to do, but it can turn into a nightmare if the only bolt that keep sit in the plastic holder rusts out (which it will, especially on a 10-year old car). I had to use the reverse-drill (don't know the exact english term, basically you use a negative drill which drills into the bolt and eventually takes it out by spinning to the left side (usual drilling is towards the right). It is accessible without having to remove anything on the car, just jack it up on the rear right wheel, and you're all set (it is between the fuel tank and the rear wheel arch). The three fuel lines have push clips that makes it hard to get them to release, use a WD40 to get them moving, and use a flat screwdriver to push them inside gently. A good video tutorial of the procedure is available here:

 

 

Anyways, I'm in the process of doing a small maintenance on my car (oil, filters etc.) so I decided to replace the current petrol fuel filter as a precaution (the current one was put in 2012, so it means it had been changed once since the car came from the factory). I'm putting Fram for all the filters (except the air box - it contains the K&N). The fuel filter must be at 6.6 bar rating, there are some versions that are 6.4 bar, you'll have issues with the petrol pressure sensor if you get the latter one. The fitted one was UFI (made in China), the new Fram is made in Bulgaria (the Fram air con filter is made in Slovenia, so go figure, they're having factories all over the world). Can't say how it works yet, the oil change is due tomorrow (didn't manage to finish everything in time today on the car).

 

 

The blue "dust", or particles that are visible on the old fuel filter aren't part of the filter, they're left over from the metal saw I was using (the saw blade was obviously colored blue)

 

 

Excellent article again vborovic - thank you!

 

Dave