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Upgrading Front Hub Carriers to Improve Handling


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One more thing I forgot to mention is that I'm fitting a set of Audi TTRS lower ball joints at the same time to try and increase the castor. Should make for some fun on the drive home to see how much more grip the front end has!

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So here are figures for a standard Fabia fitted with just TTRS lower ball joints. The camber is now at about -1.5 (with me sat in it). Unfortunately the alignment machine didn't print out the castor reading for us to see. 

IMG_20180407_103813.jpg

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Amazing write up I'm surprised there been no more interest, How long you had the set up on now and is there any signs of tyre wear? Myself like other used mk2 Mondeo droplinks when lowering the car help in a similar situation.

 

And also is it cost worthy?

 

Keep continuing to write up on this mate, I'll be interested to see your final results.

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Yes it is people trying crazy/stupid things and getting a good result that keeps us going!

 

I am on a Polo forum and I have just discovered that on certain earlier Polos (pre Fabia ones), that the lower swivels are the same on normal cars and GTIs, except the RHS one for normal cars gets fitted to the LHS on GTIs and vice-versa, someone bought a set/pair of lower wishbone assemblies via eBay for his GTI and one side has ended up with reduced camber, which sounds like they are two of the same item and not a pair fitted the wrong way round on the car. 

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The factory fitted lower ball joints on my car were backwards also! They are fitted that way to reduce castor and make the front under steer sooner.  The TTRS ball joints that are on my car now are positioned as far forward as I could mount them. It involved slotting the inboard hole in the wishbone but I now have way more adjustability.

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1 minute ago, Kgod1991 said:

Keep posting results and cost

So far two Audi TTRS ball joints were £40 and the pair of Audi S1 Quattro hubs were £100. I didn't get the afternoon off today so it will be a week or so now before these hubs are installed 

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  • 2 months later...

So I've been running this setup for a couple of months now to prove the concept and after having to change a bent lower track control arm decided to document the installation should anyone else want to try it.

 

First we start with a new arm to modify. I transferred across the poly bushes I had fitted, noting the rear is oriented for maximum castor (you will see this becoming a theme later on)

 

MVIMG_20181112_101723.thumb.jpg.548bb0bb6ccc62e7bb5de7539c0c97c5.jpg

 

 

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Next we need the Audi TTRS ball joint to size where to drill the new mounting holes. I dropped the bolts through the 2 holes that line up and pivoted the ball joint forwards so that both slots were bottomed out (maximum castor position). I knew from a few months ago that this position would give about -1.5 degrees of camber on a standard car and I don't believe it needs any more than that for a fast road setup. It is possible to achieve more camber by pushing the ball joint fully outboard but this is at the expense of castor. Now we can see the third bolt is going to need some room before we can drop it in, this is where the step drill comes into play!

 

IMG_20181112_102425.thumb.jpg.c7ea28fa57ef9b2e4ff4cc6ddd2e76fb.jpg

 

 

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Just now, Offski said:

This project might interest some that may not have seen the thread.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/374661-mk2-fabia-rs-trackday-and-auto-x-project

 

I totally stood on the shoulders of FDV when putting together this guide, as I understand he was the first to publicise this mod on Briskoda. 

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Here you can see the new 10mm hole drilled to accommodate the third bolt. Because of the increased size of the ball joint mounting area you will have to bolt it up from the bottom of the track control arm. And for those of you worried about the strength of this arrangement, I had the unfortunate luck to clobber a monster pot hole earlier this week that bent the arm without shifting the ball joint mount or bolts at all.

 

MVIMG_20181112_103012.thumb.jpg.24ae5dfc1af6e9dd4d4a5c96e07bf35f.jpg

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If you are doing the ball joints along with the Audi S1 (quattro) hub carriers the you will need to use the standard Fabia nut to mount the tapered portion to the lower mounting point as the machining there is not wide enough to take the TTRS nut.

 

Fabia nut on the left, TTRS nut on the right:

 

MVIMG_20181112_103250.thumb.jpg.81f45611692341ae4060d3a3827ac001.jpg

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The increase in distance between the hub and the ball joint mount means that when the car is back together the lower track control arm looks like this.

 

IMG_20181112_112808.thumb.jpg.d1304f2db16393f875f4eec00df38f17.jpg

 

IMG_20181112_112751.thumb.jpg.ddbf44c15ca4506b3daafaf420698d47.jpg

 

The arms pivot points are now sat much lower meaning that as the strut compresses during cornering we get much more dynamic camber. This should keep the contact patch of the tyre flat against the tarmac for longer, increasing grip and delaying understeer. The added castor settings will also be adding camber as the wheel is turned further into a corner. Subjectively I feel the initial turn in has improved but this could be because the toe in is now set to 0 degrees.

 

 

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Maybe I've missed a bit, but it looks like you have fitted TT wishbone rear bushes, ie solid ones to these wishbones?

 

Also like the idea of using proper well strong enough cap headed bolts!

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10 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Maybe I've missed a bit, but it looks like you have fitted TT wishbone rear bushes, ie solid ones to these wishbones?

 

Also like the idea of using proper well strong enough cap headed bolts!

It's Fabia Superpro kit SPF3397K which does also fit the TT, MK4 Golf etc.

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There does to be a revival maybe on people wanting to upgrade these rear bushes due to them ripping to easily in cars like Polo etc, which seems strange as the standard voided part has been in use for years in Golfs/Leons/TT for years so if they were too flimsy I'd have expected VW Group to wise up and sort them out - but these cars are a lot heavier than Fabia/Polo/Ibiza so I wonder why they are failing in these smaller/lighter cars. My wife's August 2015 ended up with a ripped one by the time it was 3 years 18.5K miles old.

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