I changed the expansion bottle for one that does not have the silicon bag in it (bought from GSF)

I'd remove the silica bag as a preventative measure on any car that had it and just face changing the coolant once every 5 years or so. Much better than a blocked heater matrix. Mine had started to split on my 2015 car so I'd caught it just in time I think...

 

 

Unfortunately mine was doing this too. I had to have the system coolant system flushed. Fingers crossed its done the trick. Still takes forever to heat up though 

Hi. My 2016 scout seems to have this problem too. I’ve read about air pockets etc causing problems snd eondered if this is something I can look at myself? I’ve found the bleed valves snd seen one is full of air… am I safe bleeding this myself or do I need to go to a garage ?

Thank you for initiating this thread and for all the responses. I came across this issue this winter.

 

History:

I got my cam belt and water pump replaced 2 years ago and there was a coolant warning after that. I drove to the garage again and got it fixed. However, over the course of two years, I got about the coolant warning with weather changes right at the start of winter. 

 

According to the discussion on this thread, it sounds like I have a coolant leak somewhere even though I cannot see any leaks physically. Maybe that is why I got the driver-side heating issue this time.

 

I am not sure how much damage this probably has done (if any) so far. But 2-3 weeks before the oil service interval (yearly oil service) the engine oil level warning started to illuminate. Not sure if this was caused by the same issue.

 

The MOT passed without a single issue. But, I am thinking of getting a secondary check done from another party/garage after reading this thread.

 

I would appreciate any advice and thank you in advance!

 

I have NEVER seen the bag split and have removed hundreds of them BUT it is the bag that is the cause in that it stops working in boosting the Silica content of the G13. The proper cure is to use the new G12 Evo and if you buy the concentrate this MUST be mixed with distilled water. Only time will tell if this prevents the MQB matrix from getting blocked. What is also extremely important is that the cooling system is back flushed thoroughly using a pressure wash and then blown clear with compressed air to get as much of the tap water out as possible. We dilute G12E 60% water 40% coolant.

28 minutes ago, Crasher said:

I have NEVER seen the bag split and have removed hundreds of them BUT it is the bag that is the cause in that it stops working in boosting the Silica content of the G13. The proper cure is to use the new G12 Evo and if you buy the concentrate this MUST be mixed with distilled water. Only time will tell if this prevents the MQB matrix from getting blocked. What is also extremely important is that the cooling system is back flushed thoroughly using a pressure wash and then blown clear with compressed air to get as much of the tap water out as possible. We dilute G12E 60% water 40% coolant.

My bag had split, right on the seam in a corner.

 

But out of interest, why have you removed 100's of them? What is saved by removing the bag if you've never had one split on you?

Edited 13 January, 20233 yr by NikTheGeek

Because the VAG instruction is to remove them as they are now obsolete plus if removed it stops customers driving me mad asking if I have removed them, far too many tinterweb experts these days. The bag in the video had split but to me it still looked pretty full.

4 hours ago, Crasher said:

Because the VAG instruction is to remove them as they are now obsolete plus if removed it stops customers driving me mad asking if I have removed them, far too many tinterweb experts these days. The bag in the video had split but to me it still looked pretty full.

Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realise it was now an advisory to remove them. Yes, in my case, it had split at the top corner so I'm sure none had leaked. But still, better to be safe than sorry.

 

Nick

On 14/01/2023 at 12:09, Crasher said:

Because the VAG instruction is to remove them as they are now obsolete plus if removed it stops customers driving me mad asking if I have removed them, far too many tinterweb experts these days. The bag in the video had split but to me it still looked pretty full.

#

Out of interest, where did you find out that the instruction is to remove them as they are obsolete? Even if obsolete, there would be no reason to removed them other than in the case that they split. That would be an admission on VAGs part that they might split and they won't do that because that opens a can of worms. The reason I am interested is that my heater matrix is blocked and with Skoda now.

I can’t find the info about removing them, it was simply just along the lines of no longer required or available so discard.

My understanding is that the Mit Silicat 'teabag' was fitted in the expansion tank to extend service life of the engine coolant and provide additional corrosion protection. I don't think it was actually judged to be obsolete, but advisable to remove to prevent issues if/when the bag fails, allowing the contents to block coolant passageways.

IIRC, if the bag is removed, the coolant will require replacement at shorter intervals to provide sufficient corrosion protection.  

On 07/09/2018 at 07:28, DavidY said:

It's been chilly enough in the last week or two that I've been trying to use the heater, but for some reason, even on the "HI" setting, it won't give me hot air. 

 

It just gives me slightly luke-warm air, and at the higher temp settings, it seems to invoke air conditioning which results in me getting even colder.

On the passenger side, it will blow hot air, but driver's side is always cold. This is whether or not it is in 'dual' mode with different temperature settings on each side or whether I take it out of dual and have the same temperature settings both sides.

 

Dual mode seems happy to blow *colder* air on the driver's side if I turn the setting to "LO", but not hotter air.

 

It's always been fine before, but a few weeks back I had a low coolant warning and then a new water pump as per this apparently common scenario.
So I'm wondering if that could be connected...? Or is it something else?

Yes well I have this problem too.

Water pump has been checked and is fine. Coolant levels are topped up and ok but the only heat I can get is the drivers side vent. This winter has been very cold with minus degree night temperatures and it is most uncomfortable with cold air blowing on you. Did you find a solution? This is a Skoda after all so I  thought all things can be sorted out on a screen but in this case perhaps not ? I just put more layers on .

1 hour ago, Jemm said:

Yes well I have this problem too.

Water pump has been checked and is fine. Coolant levels are topped up and ok but the only heat I can get is the drivers side vent. This winter has been very cold with minus degree night temperatures and it is most uncomfortable with cold air blowing on you. Did you find a solution? This is a Skoda after all so I  thought all things can be sorted out on a screen but in this case perhaps not ? I just put more layers on .

I'm pretty sure it was the Silica (or whatever is the correct technical name) bag which split and then gummed up the heater matrix. The water pump failed at around the same time - I'm not sure whether that was the cause but I imagine it's linked.  Mine is a early Mk3 Octavia diesel and there's a pinned thread on water pump failures.

 

The dealer did replace the heater matrix and, although it was out of warranty by then, I think they did get a contribution from Skoda.

 

What was not so smart is that in the process they then replaced the coolant bottle with another "mit silicat" coolant bottle.  Guess how well my heater works right now...?

Do other cars have all these problems ?