I've been told by the dealer, that my dashcam is causing a 2A battery drain, and is the reason why my stop-start never works.  

I'm not sure how the dashcam draws this much current...... and how they managed to measure a 2A battery drain when the dashcam wasn't even plugged in. BUT  they are insistent that this is the cause of all my issues.   

 

So what dashcam do you lot use/recommend then?  I have a Nextbase one at the moment.

 

Thanks

Don't change your dashcam (if you are otherwise happy with it) - get a hardwire kit that cuts out if the batter voltage drops too low, or hardwire into a ignition switched fuse.

I use a street guardian and it's amazing, brilliant quality and great support.

Edited 26 September, 20187 yr by DjEatch

2A seems a lot to power a DashCam! 

 

My (excellent and now obsolete) BlackVue is rated 4W, which works out to 0.33A

15 minutes ago, Robjon said:

2A seems a lot to power a DashCam! 

 

My (excellent and now obsolete) BlackVue is rated 4W, which works out to 0.33A

 

I agree, there is no way a dashcam is drawing 2A through it's thin flimsy cable, but I have tried arguing with the dealer, but what do I know, apparently they are the experts.....

27 minutes ago, DjEatch said:

Don't change your dashcam (if you are otherwise happy with it) - get a hardwire kit that cuts out if the batter voltage drops too low, or hardwire into a ignition switched fuse.

I use a street guardian and it's amazing, brilliant quality and great support.

 

I am happy with the dashcam.  I used it in my Jaguar XF and it works fine, it powers down when the ignition is off and powers on when it sensed that the ignition came on.  I assume that the 12V socket in the Jag worked differently to the one in my Superb, as even though I've seen the dashcam power down after the ignition is off, the dealer is telling me it still draws power.  I don't really understand the electrics/electronics stuff (I'm a mechanical engineer), so I find it hard to argue.

 

All I know is the dashcam worked fine in my XF, didn't drain the battery and didn't stay on when the car was switched off and stop-start worked fine.  In the Superb apparently the dashcam is drawing 2A, stays on 24/7 and means that auto stop/start will not function.   

 

 

I've been using a Transcend DP200 for 4 years now, used to have it in my Focus and it's now hardwired into my Octavia (powers on/off with the ignition).

 

Start/Stop works fine and never had any issues with it, works very well at night too

Ah yeah, the 12v sockets in the Skodas are not ignition switched - but depending on the fusebox, can be made to be, by moving the correct fuse halfway. 

I'll see if i can find the instuctions somehwere. - i'll need to do this when i hardwire mine to the new car.

 

(Most new mobile phone chargers can take up to 2.4A down the same usb cable)

 

I'd be inclined to remove the DashCam completely, then check that stop-start is still inoperative, then return the car to the dealer (with DashCam removed) to trace the actual source of the 2A drain.

Just now, Robjon said:

I'd be inclined to remove the DashCam completely, then check that stop-start is still inoperative, then return the car to the dealer (with DashCam removed) to trace the actual source of the 2A drain.

Had a neighbour that killed his battery with a 2A drain, he hadn't realised his dashcam was powering back up when he turned the car off.

Seems that on a 24x7 ON 12v socket, there is an initial dip that shuts down the dashcam (owner then get out and happily walks off) but then fires back up when the source is stable again and flattens the battery over night.

1 minute ago, Robjon said:

I'd be inclined to remove the DashCam completely, then check that stop-start is still inoperative, then return the car to the dealer (with DashCam removed) to trace the actual source of the 2A drain.

 

We did that, but they have had the car for 2 weeks now (2 x 1 week) 

 

week one (no dashcam fitted).... found battery drain, couldn't find the source then after 4 days the fault corrected.  We collected car, had for 2 days and fault back again. 

 

I put dashcam in for drive to work, disconnected it when I arrived at work, they collected the car the next day, after it sitting in the work car-park for 24hours, and registered the fault and a 2A battery drain, but the dashcam wasn't plugged in and hadn't been for 24hours.  

 

They've had the car all week, and are now saying it's definitely the dashcam.

 

 

If it’s not connected, it can’t be causing the drain. 

 

I have a Nextbase, but I normally unplug it when parked - unless I’m parked somewhere I think I may need to leave it running. 

 

I have permanenently disabled S/S so I don’t have a problem with it not working, but it worked OK - if you like that sort of thing - before I disabled it. 

 

As others have said, 2A is way more than a dashcam should be drawing, even if it’s connected. It sounds like the dealer/tech doesn’t know what they’re doing. 

I guess the main question is, were the dealer seeing the drain live as it was happening,  or was it a fault logged earlier that they could read off. In which case they could still see it after it was unplugged. 

My guess is that it has been running down your battery until it got too low for start stop. It was then unplugged and your battery started to recharge via the altenator, and then s/s started to work again. At which point you'd think there wasn't an error any more and plug it back in, and start draining all over again?

Are you using the original charger that came with the dashcam?

How is the dash cam plugged in? 

1 hour ago, DjEatch said:

I guess the main question is, were the dealer seeing the drain live as it was happening,  or was it a fault logged earlier that they could read off. In which case they could still see it after it was unplugged. 

My guess is that it has been running down your battery until it got too low for start stop. It was then unplugged and your battery started to recharge via the altenator, and then s/s started to work again. At which point you'd think there wasn't an error any more and plug it back in, and start draining all over again?

Are you using the original charger that came with the dashcam?

 

Hi,  Yes I am using the original charger, but the stop-start has never worked since I collected the car about 5 weeks ago, with the exception of 2 days, which were between dealer visit.

 

When they collected it the first time, the car was driven around 25 miles, with no dashcam connected, and still the stop-start didn't work.  The dealer asked permission to drive the car whilst they had it in, we agreed and they drove it around and still there was the fault, then a day or so later the fault disappeared, and they gave us the car back.  The whole time they had it the dashcam definitely wasn't connected, as it wasn't even in the car.

Need to clarify if it was a fault logged or if it was a "live" drain they found.  If dash cam wasnt plugged in, it cant be a live drain of they say there is a drain. Unless the dash cam had drained the battery down a bit and thus stop start not working.  

 

If the dash cam is plugged into thr 12v socket it is a constant live so even with ignition off it is powered, so this could have initially caused the drain on the battery. Once car is driven for a while as you said without the dashcam and battery has had chance to charge stop start should work again. If the 2 days u had it back and had the dash cam was plugged in, that would had drained your battery down as it would have been powered non stop for 48hrs. 

 

This is why i asked how it was plugged in.  12v socket or hardwired into an ignition feed so comes on with ignition and off when ignition is off. 

A lot of people disable the start / stop system with coding. It may have been disabled by a previous owner using VCDS or OBDEleven.

Take it to a different dealer to get them to diagnose the problem.

 

5 minutes ago, Adrian55555 said:

Need to clarify if it was a fault logged or if it was a "live" drain they found.  If dash cam wasnt plugged in, it cant be a live drain of they say there is a drain. Unless the dash cam had drained the battery down a bit and thus stop start not working.  

 

If the dash cam is plugged into thr 12v socket it is a constant live so even with ignition off it is powered, so this could have initially caused the drain on the battery. Once car is driven for a while as you said without the dashcam and battery has had chance to charge stop start should work again. If the 2 days u had it back and had the dash cam was plugged in, that would had drained your battery down as it would have been powered non stop for 48hrs. 

 

This is why i asked how it was plugged in.  12v socket or hardwired into an ignition feed so comes on with ignition and off when ignition is off. 

 

It is plugged into the 12V socket.  I now know that the 12V is a constant live (it wasn't in my previous car, and I wrongly assumed it wouldn't be in this one),  so I realise that may be part of my issue.  However when they collected the car, the dashcam wasn't connected, I unplugged it when I got to work that morning, they then collected and drove the car around 14 miles, shouldn't that have been enough to allow the stop-start to work again?   

 

Anyway we are getting the car back tomorrow and we'll run it without a dashcam and see if the problem comes back. 

 

Going forward it seems that my only solution will be a hard-wired dashcam.

 

Thank you all for your help, I have learnt quite a lot.  

 

I use the Nextbase 512GW and it has a 2 amp fuse in the feedline straight to the fusebox. It does not however take 2 amps at 12 volts. According to the tech specs the output of the regulator to the camera is 5 volts at 1.5 amps maximum which is 7.5 watts max. This equates to around 0.625 amps at 12 volts. Obviously there are losses in the system and it might consume slightly more current but it will never take more than 2 amps as the fuse will blow.

Edited 27 September, 20187 yr by TerryMcK

The dealer says the dash cam is causing the issue by a 2 amp drain, which I agree with the above, that it seems quite a lot for a dash cam, why not measure the current draw yourself? Its not difficult and you will be dealing with facts rather than opinions.

 

Also the chargers usually have a current rating on them.

Edited 27 September, 20187 yr by MaddicIrl
Charger comment

1 hour ago, littlesos said:

 

It is plugged into the 12V socket.  I now know that the 12V is a constant live (it wasn't in my previous car, and I wrongly assumed it wouldn't be in this one),  so I realise that may be part of my issue.  However when they collected the car, the dashcam wasn't connected, I unplugged it when I got to work that morning, they then collected and drove the car around 14 miles, shouldn't that have been enough to allow the stop-start to work again?   

 

Anyway we are getting the car back tomorrow and we'll run it without a dashcam and see if the problem comes back. 

 

Going forward it seems that my only solution will be a hard-wired dashcam.

 

Thank you all for your help, I have learnt quite a lot.  

 

Yeah 14 miles may not be enough. The car will know when it can do a stop start and start succesfully.  A lot of variables can make stop start not function as well as just a battery being slightly low.  Aircon at this time of year. Winter is generally where u will see stop start function less. With heated rear screen/heated seats etc on a lot more.  Hardwiring the dash cam will be a lot neater there are options for you to have parking mode and will shut off the dash cam if volatge drops too low.  

Alternatively your dealer may not care. Wife had same problem in Fabia with battery draining overnight causing stop start and keyless entry to stop working then worsen until she had Skoda assist out three times as she couldn't get in the car or start it. Not good for a disabled driver. 

Dealer blamed dashcam so I explained how electricity worked re: ignition controlled power.

Dealer blamed wheelchair hoist and I explained how electricity worked re: on/off switch.

Dealer said she didn't drive it enough (cobblers). I bought a ctek charger. Dealer said not powerful enough to charge battery (cobblers).

Dealer suggested driving car at least 20 miles every day.

 

Car has now gone back to VW finance and her new Honda Jazz doesn't seem to exhibit the same problems. Funny that.

 

Same Skoda dealer also has deaf mechanics as they can never hear the bag of spanners that Skoda call suspension.

 

Rant over

I have a street guardian dashcam to the front (wired to piggyback fuse) and blackview 750 for the rear. The front goes on/off with the ignition but the rear one is connected to the OBD port with the cable below. Enables you to have it either come on and off with the ignition or to turn itself off when voltage is low. I have checked and after 14 hours parked the battery voltage was still 12.20 having been 12.37 when I parked the car. Can't see how yours would be drawing 2 amps. I tend to only leave the parking mode on when in supermarkets etc.

 

https://www.halfords.com/technology/dash-cams/dash-cam-accessories/blackvue-obd-power-pro-cable

 

Just one thing with this cable - it is not long enough to reach from obd to rear window so had to cut and extend it but it is only a 2 core cable so easy to do.

I've got a Nextbase 512GW fitted in the front and a 512GWR connected from the rear. I used the Nextbase hard wiring kit piggybacked into the rear wiper fuse which turns them on and off with the ignition key. Fitted for a month with no issues, working a treat.

Does anyone using a rear mounted camera have any issues with radio interference?

 

I was having problems with poor FM reception and a distinct lack of traffic announcements, which turned out to be caused by the rear mounted camera. It was powered from the 12v socket in the boot, so I don’t know if it was the camera itself, or the adapter. 

28 minutes ago, daveo138 said:

Does anyone using a rear mounted camera have any issues with radio interference?

 

I was having problems with poor FM reception and a distinct lack of traffic announcements, which turned out to be caused by the rear mounted camera. It was powered from the 12v socket in the boot, so I don’t know if it was the camera itself, or the adapter. 

I have a front and rear camera fitted. Its the aukey dr02d, the rear camera is powered from the front camera. So front one like yours is hardwired exactly the same, and another cable runs off the front cam to the rear one.  I only use DAB and have driven from wet yorks down to near bournemouth with no issues at all.