Yeti 2010 1.2TSi petrol.

Faults now happening.

1. All 4 window switches on drivers door have no effect.....passenger side switches operate passenger side front and rear windows ok.

2. Press LOCK on key and only passenger side and tailgate central locking work... and indicators flash as normal except drivers side mirror teltale....key needed to manually lock drivers door....drivers side rear door fortunately permanently locked.  Double click to unlock and indicators flash and passenger side and tailgate unlock (tailgate only unlock button also works ok).

3. the red (alarm activated?) warning light on drivers door continues to flash even when driving along.......as if car parked and central locking activated and all doors locked.

 

Is this due to a live feed at A post being broken in the rubber harness cover between A post and door so there is no power getting to the window switches and to the central locking motors in front and rear doors?

 

Help

 

Dennis

Edited 29 September, 20187 yr by DensYeti
missed out mirror light not flashing

Hi Dens,

My Roomster is older than your Yeti, has elec front windows, elec adjust & heated mirrors, but manual rear windows.   As per lots of threads in the Roomster section, many of us with the older Roomsters have had broken wiring within that concertina rubber gaiter, and in my case the first to go was the hatch wiring, got a wiring repair kit from Sencom in Germany, that was May 2017.  

 

This August, driver's door wiring, and breaks within the gaiter, solution was a Skoda driver door loom; there are different looms according to different trim levels, in my case passenger side elec window stopped working, loom was c£100 from local dealer, but fitted by my small indy garage.

 

If you think about it, driver's door and hatch are typically the doors opened/closed most frequently. Unless you're running the car as a taxi!

 

And each car's failure symptoms differ, depending on which wire/wires break first.

I recall in the hatch gaiter, the hatch locking stuff had broken entirely, others had cracked insulation so were on their way out too.   Last year, my garageman was able to do a temp soldered repair to get the hatch lock to engage, until I got the required kit. And taped up those with cracked insulation.  This year, I did without the passenger side front window until the permanent repair was done.

 

In both cases, no fuses had popped, and all functions are restored once the wiring is replaced.

 

I suspect you'll require driver door wiring loom, ring your dealer, they'll need reg. no. and exact model spec/trim to ensure they get you the right loom.

Took my garageman  about an hour to fit, maybe a bit longer. There's a big multi-connector which connects the entire door loom to the body loom.

So nothing needs disturbing in the car body pillar/dash area, merely the door card.

HTH. and let us know when/how you fixed it.

Richard.

Edited 30 September, 20187 yr by RichardatWakefield
Add more detail.

Thanks Richard. I am beginning to put the pieces of this problem together.......have learned that there is that plug/socket at A post.  Would now like a DETAILED information of where the wires go to in the door.

My second car is now out of action (Scimitar) as I am going for a hip replacement Thursday week and will not be able to drive for a good many weeks so put Scim on SORN as tax Ran out today.     So fault has come at awkward time, especially with lots of other things happening all at same time......fairly isolated in countryside.  If the problem was with the Scim then easy-peasy I would have no hesitation diving in and fixing it, but I know how stupidly awkward it can be to take bits of modern trim to bits and how easy it is to damage the way they fix together by plastic hooked tongues

 

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the door circuits please? and a very detailed description of what to take off and how to take it off?

 

Dennis

My understanding is you don't need a wiring diagram. If you peel back the rubber "pipe" and inspect the wires you should be able to see which ones are damaged. The answer then is to either :

1/ Repair the wires by soldering new extensions into each wire, or

2/ Buy the new extended loom that plugs into the both ends.

Either way I suspect that you will have to remove the door card and fixtures.