bought the genuine aerial parts required for error free LTE 4G signal to the radio from the SIM. Installation when i get the time as its a big job bumper off and cabling front to back.

did a bit more last night, some wiring and bolted up the speaker, still to do a bit more dampening around the speaker ring. Crossovers are Sundown SA6.5 V2s with 3 different tweeter DB settings.
 

these are fantastic crossovers (£150 for a pair) shame to hide them.
 

there's another layer of closed cell foam to go on the inside door card.
 

OEM LTE 4G aerials fitted, there is no where to attach the aerial plates to so i had to improvise and use the crash bar holes.

 

weather proof fakra connectors for those who might want to do this are essential.

 

this was the ONLY place under the bumper to fit the aerial without drilling into the body



Heavy duty weather proof FAKRA connectors 



heat shrink for extra protection



nice and tidy

 

Ends passed through the trailer grommet


 

 

 

On 24/04/2019 at 18:53, logiclee said:

 

The Audio in the Mk3 really bugged me, I've posted before I felt it was a step down from the Mk2 and that wasn't great. And as you have mentioned the sound deading is not great either.

 

 

Thats the only thing that irritated me going from my Oct 2 to my Oct 3 .... it's like they didn't bother fitting any audio.  I've often wondered if sound proofing the doors would make a difference.

 

Only stereo worst is the one in my Wife's Mini.

4 hours ago, ScoutCJB said:

 

Thats the only thing that irritated me going from my Oct 2 to my Oct 3 .... it's like they didn't bother fitting any audio.  I've often wondered if sound proofing the doors would make a difference.

 

Only stereo worst is the one in my Wife's Mini.

 

I think they went for a flat response in the Mk3 which is more accurate in a sound lab in complete silence but it doesn't work well in the MK3. The Mk2 was probably less accurate and added in a fair bit of bass and treble but it sounded more full bodied and coped with the noise in the cabin better.

My Mk3 had the expensive optional Columbus with DVD and HDD etc but it never impressed me. My wife still has the Mk2 with basic Bolero and it sounds fine for a basic system.

 

I now have a 17 Speaker, 1200W, Bowers and Wilkins system with DTS and DD surround in my current car. I more than happy with that.

 

Lee

Edited 12 May, 20197 yr by logiclee

That's what I have in my Oct 3 - Columbus, DVD and HDD, wish it was better!

Edited 12 May, 20197 yr by ScoutCJB

On 19/03/2019 at 11:34, JohnnyType2 said:

rear tweeter fitted into the door card. progress is slow due to house renovations and weather sorry

nice work 

i am completely following your steps 

now regarding the rear tweeter, i haven't taken this door panel off yet to see what can be done

is it possible to fit an aftermarket tweeter component keeping the original grille?

1 hour ago, bcc said:

nice work 

i am completely following your steps 

now regarding the rear tweeter, i haven't taken this door panel off yet to see what can be done

is it possible to fit an aftermarket tweeter component keeping the original grille?

the tweeter is welded in place and i accidentally put the drill through the front while removing it 😔 so i had to present the tweeter like this to hide the damage.

 

if you are very careful (unlike me) you should be able to fit the tweeter from the rear but it will need Sikaflex to hold it in as there are no fixing points.

7 hours ago, bcc said:

now regarding the rear tweeter, i haven't taken this door panel off yet to see what can be done

is it possible to fit an aftermarket tweeter component keeping the original grille?

 

Yes it is, I did it.

It is a bit tight fit but there is enough space for Rainbow Germanium GL-T26.

 

Is this wake up pin, the remote wire that i have to bring to the amp?

 

can i just split this wire and lead to the amp?

 

accessory wire is normally blue and was blue on mine although i didnt need to use it as the LC7i has a function to detect signal and turn your amps on.

 

yes its labelled wake up, just check the colour first, there are plenty of harnesses to convert to an ISO plug which makes it a lot easier to wire the amp with speaker level inputs 

Edited 17 May, 20197 yr by JohnnyType2

On 17/05/2019 at 19:12, JohnnyType2 said:

accessory wire is normally blue and was blue on mine although i didnt need to use it as the LC7i has a function to detect signal and turn your amps on.

 

yes its labelled wake up, just check the colour first, there are plenty of harnesses to convert to an ISO plug which makes it a lot easier to wire the amp with speaker level inputs 

I've got the same harness as you ct10sk03 but there is no split for this pin and the colour is green on my harness

 

I would bring a 12v switched from the fuse box to the amp to turn it on. however, my RCA adapter requires a 12v switched and the fu..... remote wire from the amp

 

So I am kinda afraid to plug two 12v switched in the RCA adapter and burn it out

 

I hope to sort it out this weekend 

 

would you split the wake up wire in this case? is there any test?

dont worry about the colour on the connects2 harness, if you connect up a multi meter to the green wire and check its for accessory, so you only get 12v when the ignition is on and it should run around 1amp no more. you can also use the powered aerial wire but im not sure if this will throw any errors. 

Ive depinnned most of the spare wires just to clean it up and it is green.

On 19/01/2019 at 19:56, JohnnyType2 said:

(...)

 

 

Hi!

Nice writeup, very helpful

However I'm having a couple of issues, hoping one of you guys could help me out;

How did you get the ring connector, not sure what they're called in english, under that bolt? On my car the bolt and the connector for the wire going to get battery are stuck together sort of. So I can't get the ring connector right under the topside of the bolt, I'd have to go under the whole thing, which makes it all kinds of awkward angle wise for the connector.  I hope that made sense.

 

And where did you ground the amps in the back?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

tap it with a hammer, it must be corrosion... i only added the connector here as the shape and type of battery connection is awkward. This way isnt ideal due to the size of the wire leading from this point to the battery as it might act as a bottle neck, if it does ill change it to zero gauge.

amps are grounded at the rear wheel arch grounding points. you need to remove the boot side trim to get to them. just behind the blue power wire coil in this image

 

 

Very nice!

 

What is your coding for head unit ?

1 hour ago, Shahoff said:

Very nice!

 

What is your coding for head unit ?

 

its the Amundsen 9.2"

48 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

its the Amundsen 9.2"

No , I am asking how you coded your headunit to not to complain about absence of speakers ?  Can you share your Amundsen long coding ?

i have the VCDS HEX-NET WiFi and just used that to code out the error.

21 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

i have the VCDS HEX-NET WiFi and just used that to code out the error.

 

I have as well ,  that a reason whey I am asking  for help by sharing your long code for infotainment  Is it only byte 11 ?

Hi Johnny,

 

Thanks for all the info in this post ive basically copied most of your install just that i have put it all in the spare wheel space.

 

Just a quick question, using the Lc7i, im getting a constant hissing sound thats audible at all gain levels on the Lc7i however its barely audible if the gain is at minimum (would need to put your ear to the tweeter) did you ever come across any kind of hiss?

 

TIA, Josh

On 18/02/2020 at 22:37, JChell said:

Hi Johnny,

 

Thanks for all the info in this post ive basically copied most of your install just that i have put it all in the spare wheel space.

 

Just a quick question, using the Lc7i, im getting a constant hissing sound thats audible at all gain levels on the Lc7i however its barely audible if the gain is at minimum (would need to put your ear to the tweeter) did you ever come across any kind of hiss?

 

TIA, Josh

Sorry i missed this post... no no hiss at all, is your LC7i in the boot and how did you run the cabling for the speaker inputs? im asking as i ran power down one side and speaker cable down the middle just in case of interference. 

Hi,

So if we have on the original system:

FR +-
FL +-
RL +-
RR +-

 

How we connect the subwoofer?

Thanks 

6 hours ago, FreelancerGamer said:

Hi,

So if we have on the original system:

FR +-
FL +-
RL +-
RR +-

 

How we connect the subwoofer?

Thanks 

What are the input connections on the subwoofer?

16 hours ago, FreelancerGamer said:

Hi,

So if we have on the original system:

FR +-
FL +-
RL +-
RR +-

 

How we connect the subwoofer?

Thanks 

 

you need the LC2i or LC7i to 'Sum' all those channels together to create the subwoofer output. It will also get rid of 'bass leveling off' which factory systems do to protect the poorer quality speakers from blowing at high volume