How much watt rms the original speaker wires can handle? 

I have Rockford Fosgate T2652-S 100 Watts RMS

Do I need to drill the molex connectors and put new wires? 

 

Thanks!!!

Hi, I need to access the Pioneer Avic F260 GPS unit in my 2016 Skoda Fabia, I have taken out the LCD screen but dont see the GPS anywhere, the DIN is tightly secured on the side toeards the glove box. Any idea where the GPS unit would usually be installed?

On 29/06/2020 at 11:44, FreelancerGamer said:

How much watt rms the original speaker wires can handle? 

I have Rockford Fosgate T2652-S 100 Watts RMS

Do I need to drill the molex connectors and put new wires? 

 

Thanks!!!

No new cables required. You're looking at 3A of current or so at 4 Ohms and 100W. 

 

 - Bret

On 30/06/2020 at 13:06, brettikivi said:

No new cables required. You're looking at 3A of current or so at 4 Ohms and 100W. 

 

 - Bret

Are you sure?

I just looked at my amp spec "Prime 400 Watt Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier"

They advice Speaker Wire Gauge12 AWG and the Average Current Draw (13.8V Music) 25 A

So can I use the wire that he used in this thread STINGER 18 AWG to send the output from the amp to the speakers or better upgrade to 12 AWG and send directly to the speakers through the molex connectors?

 

Thanks

 

A little research tells me the amp is a Rockford-Fosgate R400-4D. Manual is here: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/library/2011/3_amplifiers/1230-56751-01_primefrd4champs-man.pdf

It only does 100W / channel into 2 ohms. There's a couple of things on the wiring: 

 

- you *must* fuse the main supply with 40A within 30cm of the battery. 

- you'll need to be using around 10mm2 main supply cables, depending on the distance from the battery to the amplifier.  Some sources for this: https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-1-home/c-48-cables/c-198-single-core-pvc-thin-wall-cable and this, though it's in German: http://noiasca.rothschopf.net/deutsch/dkabelquerschnitt.htm

- your standard speaker cables are 1.5mm2, I believe (and this seems plausible). The max carrying capability of these is around 16A. 

 

volts = square root of power * impedance; therefore:

sqrt of 100*4

sqrt of 400 = 20

 

therefore: current = 5A, power = 100W, Voltage = 20V. 

 

Your *speaker* cables are therefore well within their limits if they are 1.5mm2.

 

I don't understand AWG sizes. If you are to change them, I would use 2.5mm2 but I don't see the point in the effort. How are you getting the signal from the head unit to the amp?

 

 - Bret

25 minutes ago, brettikivi said:

...

How are you getting the signal from the head unit to the amp?

 

 - Bret

 

Thanks for the answer 

I want to wire exactly like "JohnnyType2" did it.

 

From the multimedia in the glove box to DSP with 18 gauge 9 conductor Audio cable -> from DSP to the amp with RCA cables -> then to the speakers (here I have 2 options)

1) go to the original wires in the glove box back to the speakers

2) wire to the speakers directly

 

Thanks again

3 hours ago, brettikivi said:

I don't understand AWG sizes.

This is a useful conversion table from AWG to mm2 AWG to mm2

6 hours ago, FreelancerGamer said:

 

Thanks for the answer 

I want to wire exactly like "JohnnyType2" did it.

 

From the multimedia in the glove box to DSP with 18 gauge 9 conductor Audio cable -> from DSP to the amp with RCA cables -> then to the speakers (here I have 2 options)

1) go to the original wires in the glove box back to the speakers

2) wire to the speakers directly

 

Thanks again

 

be aware there is quite a lot of work involved using heavier duty speaker cable through the current connectors, iv'e documented this for the rears. The front is similar just slightly more awkward getting the cable through the pillar connectors due to their location.

There's absolutely zero reason at these low powers to be replacing the speaker cable. You're already having to pull a set of cable(s) from the amp at the back of the car to the glovebox to connect back to the speakers. Replacing these gives you the "advantage" of going directly to the doors but there's no reason to do it in terms of sound quality or the ability of the cable to carry the current you are pushing down it. You also lose the advantage of that 9-core cable.

 

You're sure the 2020 Superb is the same as the Octavia if that's the car you're installing in?

 

Personally, I've been looking at some options and realizing most amps have auto-on if they have a High-level input, and that DSP is getting pretty darned good for low pricing. Match seems overpriced when you realise what a 4.9 bit can do and they're currently under €300 here. Personally, I already have a C-DSP 6x8 in the garage that was going to go into another car and now can be used for the Octy, so... having said that, I would not go to these lengths and then not go active. Requires more cables and more channels, but I'm personally thinking about using two four channel amps. Four channels for the front, a pair for the rear and then the other bridged for a sub. Just have to work out if I want to use the SDX10 or something else. And find some funds... 

 

 - Bret

Hey @JohnnyType2, awesome write up, you've out a lot of effort in!

 

I've been given 2 dbaudio t-rex 6.2 component sets. They are 17cm though. Do you happen to know if they will fit my mk3 estate? I think with an adapter, they will, but I can't really find much  info. 

 

I will be powering them from an in-phase 2000w amp which I will feed from an LC7i. 

 

Like you, I plan to use Stinger speedwire to bring the feed from the head unit to the LC7i. I'm too lazy to put new wires in for speakers, so I plan to use more speedwire from the amp and back into the iso connector to use the original wiring. I'm sure higher gauge wire will be better, but do you think my plan work ok?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but you seem to know your stuff so thought I'd ask. 

30 minutes ago, SamBis said:

Hey @JohnnyType2, awesome write up, you've out a lot of effort in!

 

I've been given 2 dbaudio t-rex 6.2 component sets. They are 17cm though. Do you happen to know if they will fit my mk3 estate? I think with an adapter, they will, but I can't really find much  info. 

 

I will be powering them from an in-phase 2000w amp which I will feed from an LC7i. 

 

Like you, I plan to use Stinger speedwire to bring the feed from the head unit to the LC7i. I'm too lazy to put new wires in for speakers, so I plan to use more speedwire from the amp and back into the iso connector to use the original wiring. I'm sure higher gauge wire will be better, but do you think my plan work ok?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but you seem to know your stuff so thought I'd ask. 

 

just checked them out, they look fine, you would be better to get the MDF rings like i have as they will accommodate a larger speaker and are more stable then the halfords plastic rings. Original wiring would be fine, i just didnt want to cut mine as you have to remove the specific VAG adapter, if i sell the car ill remove the sundowns and replace with the originals back to stock just leaving the heavier gauge where it is.

 

I think the plan is good and with a 2K amp you have room to expand.

52 minutes ago, JohnnyType2 said:

 

just checked them out, they look fine, you would be better to get the MDF rings like i have as they will accommodate a larger speaker and are more stable then the halfords plastic rings. Original wiring would be fine, i just didnt want to cut mine as you have to remove the specific VAG adapter, if i sell the car ill remove the sundowns and replace with the originals back to stock just leaving the heavier gauge where it is.

 

I think the plan is good and with a 2K amp you have room to expand.

Hey man, thanks for the reply.

 

Did you make your own MDF rings? I don't think I have the skills.

no but i should have as i have a jig for making sub rings, give me your exact measurements and i can make a set for you, i have a tonne of spare MDF. i need ID/OD for the speaker in MM, and the depth you need (multiples of 20mm)

 

I got mine on ebay but they were a shade small and needed modification for the hefty sundown baskets.

14 hours ago, JohnnyType2 said:

no but i should have as i have a jig for making sub rings, give me your exact measurements and i can make a set for you, i have a tonne of spare MDF. i need ID/OD for the speaker in MM, and the depth you need (multiples of 20mm)

 

I got mine on ebay but they were a shade small and needed modification for the hefty sundown baskets.

 

That would be awesome, thank you. I haven't got the speakers yet, but I will let you know when I pick them up. I don't suppose I will know what depth I need until I pop the old speakers out and try the new ones in. 

Great write up and detail in this thread!

I’ve just got a superb mk3 and am thinking of trying to install my old 12” sub and 500w rms amp but unlike my old mk2 superb that I’d installed the aftermarket Kenwood head unit to get line outputs that’s not an option in the newer car so I have a few questions:

 

I’m guessing the connects 2 CT10SK03 harness adapter would be compatible with the (presumably) MIB2.5 Columbus system I have?

 

If so could I use that to tap off the speaker signals down to the boot via something like the multi core cable used by the original poster and either run them directly into my Kenwood KAC-9106D amplifier’s high level input or via something like the LC2i and then into the amp? (Would the LC2i be necessary in the case of just wanting the sub?)

 

finally am I right in thinking I could also run a return multi core and effectively give myself the option to amp the standard speakers separately from the boot (for example) if I wanted to in future (unlikely but I do like to future proof things!) by effectively sending the speaker signals down the car to the amps and back to the oem harness? (without the need to upgrade the cable to the doors!)

 

On 15/09/2020 at 22:02, SkudMissile21 said:

Great write up and detail in this thread!

I’ve just got a superb mk3 and am thinking of trying to install my old 12” sub and 500w rms amp but unlike my old mk2 superb that I’d installed the aftermarket Kenwood head unit to get line outputs that’s not an option in the newer car so I have a few questions:

 

I’m guessing the connects 2 CT10SK03 harness adapter would be compatible with the (presumably) MIB2.5 Columbus system I have?

 

yes if its a MOST connector on the headunit it will work as in the MIB2.5

 

On 15/09/2020 at 22:02, SkudMissile21 said:

 

If so could I use that to tap off the speaker signals down to the boot via something like the multi core cable used by the original poster and either run them directly into my Kenwood KAC-9106D amplifier’s high level input or via something like the LC2i and then into the amp? (Would the LC2i be necessary in the case of just wanting the sub?)

 

without a separate sub line out, like the canton system, you need the LC2i to 'sum' all four speaker outputs and create a signal for the subwoofer, the LC2i is perfect for this

 

On 15/09/2020 at 22:02, SkudMissile21 said:

 

finally am I right in thinking I could also run a return multi core and effectively give myself the option to amp the standard speakers separately from the boot (for example) if I wanted to in future (unlikely but I do like to future proof things!) by effectively sending the speaker signals down the car to the amps and back to the oem harness? (without the need to upgrade the cable to the doors!)

 

yes you could do that as well.

Thanks for the reply JohnnyType2,

I am hoping the weather holds off long enough tomorrow morning for me to have a look at pulling out the MIB2.5 unit to double check the connector before I order a T adapter and also look into the feasibility of getting power for the amp. Had a quick look earlier and it doesn’t seem like there are any obvious routes through from the engine bay to the footwell (in my superb 2 I managed to poke through to under the scuttle panel then through a grommet to behind the glove box but I couldn’t see any cables behind there on this one), did wonder if the behind glovebox fuse box would have a main feed that could be tapped off though? If it’s got a decent sized feed from the battery box which then splits down to the smaller fuses then this could be an option if I can’t get a separate feed through? I really don’t fancy removing the battery or anything else just to get a power cable through.....

Depends a little on the power you're putting in.. what amp was it?

 

 - Bret

7 hours ago, brettikivi said:

Depends a little on the power you're putting in.. what amp was it?

 

 - Bret

It’s a Kenwood KAC-9106D and after reading the spec sheet it wants 65A supply so it’s battery on nothing!

had a go this morning removing the battery and trying unsuccessfully to get a cable through the main grommet, gave up after about an hour but stumbled across a YouTube video of a golf mk6 install with dsg where the guy ran through the drivers footwell grommet where the clutch pedal would be - had a look and there was one in mine easy to get to and when removed I could see light with the bonnet up. Poked my old 6mm cable through for now and routed it around the back of the engine bay to near the battery. Will be picking up a new 8awg wiring kit and replacing this cable as it’s just long enough to reach behind the drivers seat so no good but as proof of concept it’ll do!

dropped the glove box down and confirmed the most connector was as Johnny said so have ordered the CT03 harness as well.

Think I will run the new power and switch line down the right side and a couple of RCA’s down the left side. Hoping I can hide the LC2i behind the glove box, will probably test the whole lot first by running speaker lines straight to the high level inputs on the amp before I commit £150 to that one though.

Had some time today and yesterday so I ran the replacement power cable down the right side of the car to the boot and mounted the Kenwood amp. 5M still wasn’t long enough for the route I wanted so I’ve had to extend it using an inline crimp - not ideal but I know from previous experience despite the ridiculously high quoted power draw of 65A this amp won’t be getting anywhere near it so it will be fine. It’s fused at 60A next to the battery anyway and the whole run from the bulkhead around the back of the engine bay to the battery is protected with some 20mm flexible conduit and routed out the way of the engine. I’ll be keeping an eye on it anyway so if I spot any signs of it getting hot I’ll be replacing it.

Fitted the connects 2 harness with the rear channels picked off to a couple of bullets which I then connected to the flat speaker cables I ran down the left side to the boot.

initially tried the amp directly with the high level inputs and it worked rather well. Probably could’ve got away without the LC2i but it had actually turned up while I was doing the install so I’ve got that fitted and running now with the remote.

it certainly packs a punch now I’ve got my 12” sub going again, forgot how much of a difference it makes even though I was actually fairly impressed with the bass performance of the Columbus before.

I’ve set the bass level on the head unit to zero now and adjusted the LC2i and the amp gain to get it thumping nicely while still being able to get a bit more or less via the remote when required (which I’ve fitted inside the drivers cubby drop down).

Things I will need to revisit probably - the amp ground cable I had is not quite long enough for my liking so will need replacing with a longer one at some point (couldn’t find a decent ground so I ended up drilling one in the spare wheel well centre mounting since I could see behind it to know it would be safe to drill).

the cables down the sides of the car are tucked under the trims but aren’t really sitting in place nicely so I guess I will have to attack removing the trims and fit them properly - anyone have any tips to remove them and refit without damaging anything? I have a full set of trim removal tools.

Finally, the LC2i seems very sensitive to turning itself on even when the head unit is off?? Unlock and open the doors and a few seconds later it’s switched on and doesn’t go off for a minute or so. Tested this and it seems to be any door opening does it, anyone else experienced this? At least the amp doesn’t thump during this and I know it won’t be pulling any current with no signal but still doesn’t seem right.

Also I don’t think my Columbus is rolling off the bass at all so I’ve got accubase set to off, is this feature only present with the canton setup?

I have the LC7i and dont have that issue, i there are two wires you can safelt take the signal from one green (power antenna) one blue, blue being the radio signal to turn the LC2i on when the radio turns on. You could also use the power antenna wire instead if you are having issues with doors opening turning it on. Sounds like it might be wired incorrectly? 

Had to register an account just to say amazing wireing job

Looks nice. Got the same sub box from Basser. How much space is there around the box when fitted? I like to damp the box on the outside but not sure if it can fit with 4 mm damping on the back, buttom and top. Thanks

On 26/01/2024 at 10:44, Hede said:

Looks nice. Got the same sub box from Basser. How much space is there around the box when fitted? I like to damp the box on the outside but not sure if it can fit with 4 mm damping on the back, buttom and top. Thanks

theres plenty of space inside as i use 1 inch deadening. its a snug fit already outside the box in the cavity if you are planning to have sound deadening on the outside? personally i dont think you need it. 

Althoughi dont think 4mm will be a problem. it will get compressed if its a wool type fabric and not bitumen style dense material. 

On 26/01/2024 at 10:44, Hede said:

Looks nice. Got the same sub box from Basser. How much space is there around the box when fitted? I like to damp the box on the outside but not sure if it can fit with 4 mm damping on the back, buttom and top. Thanks

you could remove the wheel arch lining like i did and line the panels, much more effective at removing any tinny or buzzing sub noises