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Scotland - Ullapool - Durness

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I do this drive more or less every summer - and just love it!

Start off in pretty Ullapool and head north on A835. Some 8 miles or so north of here, an unclassified road to Achiltibuie can take you to see the Hydroponicum, where trees and plants grow without soil! Get to taste bananas, fruits, veg, herbs and spices here in the Highlands!

Back on the main road, pass Knockan Crag nature reserve, where you can explore some of the world's oldest rock formations. At Elphin Junction, head left and north along A837. Pass ruins of Ardvreck castle on left and the jagged peaks of the Quinag mountain come into view.

At junction of A894, you can continue north or take a deviation to Lochinver. Visit the Highland Stoneware pottery in the village and buy quality seconds. The potters are happy for you to wander about and talk to you about Highland life. The mountain 'Suilven' dominates the village skyline.

Back north on the A894, head for Kylesku where boat trips leave for close up views of Eas Coul Aulin - Britain's highest waterfall. (Admittedly, this is more spectacular in wet weather!) Cross over the Kylesku bridge which now connects you to North West Sutherland.

Pass through Scourie with it's pretty sandy beaches and continue north to Rhiconich.

The road changes to the A838 and becomes largely single-track - yet it is fast and you can make good speed on a clear run. The Kyle of Durness appears on your left and if the tide is out, appears sandy and barren. Before heading into Durness, a little road to the west at Cape Wrath Hotel leads you to boat crossings to Cape Wrath, where a minibus heads for Britain's highest cliffs a Clo Mor. (This bit I have still got to do - I've either arrived too late for a crossing or the boat hasn't run!)

In Durness, turn left for Balnakeil beach. The MoD often operates in this area as some of the coastal rock stacks and islands are bombing targets! (Warnings are often posted on the village noticeboard near the Mace shop in Durness).

To the east of Durness, Smoo Cave is just a small walk from the car park to the beach. Here, you can see where loved ones have made messages out of the rocks on the vast grassy hillside. Past Durness, the A838 continues to Tongue and beyond.

Return to Ullapool, park up the car and watch the Isle Of Lewis ferry return from Stornoway as the sun goes down.

Great journey but better still is Durness to Thurso.

  • Author
Great journey but better still is Durness to Thurso.

I've not gone from Durness to Melvich yet, but have done Melvich - Thurso and beyond. The sight of UKAEA Dounreay spoils it completely though.

Have also done Helmsdale - Forsinard - Melvich last summer, but the weather was predictably wet!

  • 7 months later...

Heading out of Lochinver take the B869 to Kylesku - single track all the way, but fantastic scenery and a couple of nice 1 in 4 hills......... not one to go fast on!

  • 2 years later...

I love the area north of Ullapool, the mountains and lochs....and great driving roads with no sign of the modern day **** Turpin....

I was up near Lochinver for a weeks hill walking, stayed at Clachtoll Bay on the campsite (can be seen in avatar photo with the red chair)

The roads are great and the back roads even better, but obviously slower.

Only problem is it was 470 miles back home, 9.5 hrs!

Despite being in Ullapool more times than I count, I have to confess I've never been north of there by road (have sailed around Cape Wrath mind you), and this will have to change soon...

Come spring we plan to cover this and as many of the great Scottish roads in a grand tour. Hopefully I will still be able to fuel my baby seen in the first 30s and last 30s of this youtube clip and heard throughout.

.YouTube - Brisky NW meet 09-09

Mg zt v8. I think the sound will be of greater value in the glorious glens.

Steve:thumbup:

  • 1 year later...

Ahh my back garden :) Im from Ullapool :) The road to Lairg is also a good one...single track :) Plus road to achilty backilty is great at night!!...road from Tarvie to Gairloch is also single track and a nice drivers road :).....Really any road north of Ullapool is a good one :)

K:)

My relatives live in Durness I travel up there at least once a year to see them, travel through the night in time for a great breakfast in Ullapool just behind the main street that runs along the sea front. Some lovey roads up there especially early morning when there`s very little traffic. I have to agreed great run, not in October though, rutting season deer everywhere.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sure youve not lived until youve had a stag land on your car after jumping a fence or hitting one and totaling your motor!!...makes a nice addition to the freezer though :)

K:)

  • 4 weeks later...

That road is stunning - I was there in October -

- you might recognise some of the locations the OP mentions in the head of the thread.

I also cycled from Ullapool north past Knockan Crag, then headed to Lochinver and then back past Stac Pollaidh to Ullapool - some great roads there (did them in the car too but that was easy). Hard on a pedal cycle though.

Rich

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