A/C Pulley Rattles ( Delphi DH5 Compressor )

[PipH]

I've recently bought a

 

Superb MkII with a lot of miles on it ( 191k ), although you wouldn't know from driving it.

 

When the aircon is off there is quite a rattle from the A/C pulley, this disapears when the A/C is on & A/C works fine.

 

I removed the aux drivebelt & there is quite a bit of circumfrential ( is that a word ) play in the pulley. ( Delphi DH5 Compressor )

 

There are 3 rivets towards the centre of the pulley with link bars to 3 rivets closer to the circumference of the pulley.

The outer 3 rivets are loose, this is where the play is & causing the rattle. ( Picture below )

You can see all the rust dust on the pulley where the rivett holes must be getting worn from the loose rivets.

 

There is a 10mm head bolt in the centre which I removed expecting the pulley would just slide off the compressor shaft, but it's on there solid.

 

I borrowed a 3 leg puller thinking it would just need a little help, but despite putting quite a bit of pressure on it doesn't want to budge & i'm not happy putting any more force on it.

 

Wondered if anyone else had this problem & if they were able to remove the pulley.

 

 

[Roots Supercharger]

As it looks like you will need a repair kit, I would Google X8R Ltd. of Ramsgate and ask if they have any bright ideas.

[Roots Supercharger]

On reflection, I don't think the X8R repair kit will fit your unit unless you can drill and tap or rivet your old pulley etc.

[PipH]

Thanks for the info Roots.

 

I had seen their ( X8R ) listing on eBay for the pulley repair kit, but as you say, it is for a different type of pulley with different fixings.

 

I have now managed to get hold of an identical complete compressor, although obviously it will be a lot more costlier than just the pulley.

 

Things these days just arn't designed to be repaired easily.

[PipH]

So aircon is now fully functioning & quiet again after I changed the complete compressor & had the system re-charged.

 

Now i've got the old one off I can see how it comes apart.

 

The centre part of the shear drive is splined to the compressor rotor & has to be pulled off first with the help of a puller.

 

The main pulley is held on with a circlip that can now be accessed.

Once removed the pulley pulls straight off.

 

The link bars of the shear drive arn't rivetted to the outer of the pulley as I thought.

There are metal domes on the end of the 3 arms & 3 bolts through the pulley with depressions in the bolt heads that the domes fit into.

The idea being that if the compressor seizes the 3 domes get pulled out of the depressions bending the matal arms & stop the drive belt breaking.

The tight fit between the 2 had worn allowing the pulley to rattle .

 

But as I havn't been able to find anyone who supplies spare parts I think replacing the compressor is the only option.

[silver1011]

How much did this cost out of curiosity? A new compressor and re-gas?

[PipH]

I found a second hand one with the exact same part No on eBay for £30.

 

Halfords do a test on the system to make sure there are no leaks, then vacuum it for £30.

Than if everything tests fine they re-gass/ add the correct amount of lube for a further £30.

 

So all-in cost me £90 plus my time/ spannering, which I thought was a result.

[silver1011]

Nice!

[chimaera]

On 10/12/2018 at 12:08, PipH said:

So aircon is now fully functioning & quiet again after I changed the complete compressor & had the system re-charged.

 

Now i've got the old one off I can see how it comes apart.

 

The centre part of the shear drive is splined to the compressor rotor & has to be pulled off first with the help of a puller.

 

The main pulley is held on with a circlip that can now be accessed.

Once removed the pulley pulls straight off.

 

The link bars of the shear drive arn't rivetted to the outer of the pulley as I thought.

There are metal domes on the end of the 3 arms & 3 bolts through the pulley with depressions in the bolt heads that the domes fit into.

The idea being that if the compressor seizes the 3 domes get pulled out of the depressions bending the matal arms & stop the drive belt breaking.

The tight fit between the 2 had worn allowing the pulley to rattle .

 

But as I havn't been able to find anyone who supplies spare parts I think replacing the compressor is the only option.

I think mine has developed the same problem: do you have any pictures showing the removal of the pulley from the compressor?

[PipH]

I didn't take any at the time, but as I still have all the bits in the garage i've taken some photo's now for you.

 

I think Skoda may have fitted several different types of compressor so check if yours is the same part No.

 

I've taken several photo's in different stages of dissassembly.

 

If you remove the 10mm head bolt at the centre, this comes off easily with the belt still on.

 

Then remove the belt.

 

Fit a puller to the three leg drive at the centre & pull it off the splines.

 

Then you can remove the circlip holding the pulley, the pulley then just pulls off.

 

The dimples on the three legs of the sheer drive wear, as well as the dimples in the 3 bolts on the pulley.

 

Hope the pictures makes it clear.

 

If not just ask.

[chimaera]

Thanks a million for those. I've had a quick look in from the top and it looks a bit different to what you've posted, but the angle is terrible so I'm not 100 % sure. I'll be doing some work on the front brakes over the weekend, so I'll pop off the wheelarch liner and have a good look then. ETKA suggests that the compressor is a Sanden one (P/N 1K0 820 808 F) but I've seen a few variants of the pulley online already and they all look different.

[PipH]

This is a compressor the same part No as yours, & is totally different.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Touran-2010-2015-Air-Con-Air-Conditioning-Compressor-1K0-820-808-F/123350484461?hash=item1cb84305ed:g:5q0AAOSwCy5bjmy-

 

Looks like you can get a repair part from Germany.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Klimakompressor-Magnetkupplung-Riemenscheibe-Audi-A3-8P1-Seat-Altea-XL-VW-Passat/292994989382?hash=item4437dcbd46:g:hYoAAOSwDp5ch8TF

 

It lists your compressor part No in the references.

[chimaera]

I'm not quite sure how I missed that last night when I was searching Thanks for the links. It does look a bit like what I could see down there - I'll know for definite over the weekend.

[chimaera]

Update time. My a/c has since stopped working entirely and the rattle has disappeared - I suspect the two are connected. Turning a/c on or off doesn't change the load on the engine like it should either.

 

I finally got under the car to look at this today. It turns out the compressor fitted on my car is a Valeo one, p/n 5K0 820 803 B.

 

The compressor shaft turns freely with no hint of it being damaged, leading me to suspect a faulty clutch/pulley. These look like they're readily available so hopefully that'll solve the problem.

[chimaera]

Further digging online suggests this is the part I need: https://www.ttk-ac.de/A-C-Compressor-Hub-ZEXEL-VALEO-DCS-17-Diameter-8500-mm-Mercedes-Benz

 

I'll see if I can get one locally before the weekend (fingers crossed since it's forecast to be quite warm), otherwise it'll be an online order.

[chimaera]

A final update on this. I ordered the part linked to above and got around to fitting it today. A neat thing about the hub is that you don't need a special puller to remove it: there's an M6 tapped hole in the front of it and screwing an M6 bolt into that pushes the hub off the splined shaft. Access is through the wheelarch - liner has to be removed first.

 

When I had the old hub off it was obvious what the problem was since it came off in two pieces. Bolted in the replacement and have nice cold air in the cabin again, just in time for a warm spell.

 

Some pics of the work attached.

[PipH]

Pleased that you were able to fix it fairly easily & cheaply.

 

It looks like a better design & easier to work on than the Delphi one on my car.

[rahore]

Hi @PipH thanks for your useful tips above. I also have a faulty Delphi DH5 a/c compressor and am wondering whether replacing the clutch shear plate will solve the issue? Looking at something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005525904078.html

 

As you can see from my pic below, the links bars have come loose and have damaged the bolts they fit onto

Any help or advice appreciated! 
 

[elesido]

My 2015 Skoda Yeti has exactly the same issue. Would anybody know the part number / source of a replacement clutch assembly?

[J.R.]

There are plenty on Ebay, just google aircon pulley, shear plate, 5K0 820 803

[rahore]

@elesido - I found this replacement shear plate on Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005525904078.html but am guessing the damaged dimple head hex bolts will also need replacing. Not sure where to get replacements for these though...

[Loek]

Hi, 
I stumbled upon this topic and as it seems I have the exact same problems with my Suberb Combi II.

 

My normal garages over here do not have time to fix airco's before my vacation (mid July).

So I took a look myself and indeed the clutch was worn and faulty see the now familiarpicture on the left..

To be sure this was all that is wrong I put the levers back in the dented hex bolts and then turned the bolts another 180 degrees (probably overdid the advised torque a little bit 😉

Now for the moment the clutch picks up and the airco is working like a breeze again, no pun intended.

So maybe this quick fix may be of help to others. 

 

I do want to replace the clutch with a new.

Then have to pull the plate off the shaft, did anyone succed with prying it off with a big screwdriver? Not sure there is enough room for a puller.

With a mirror on a pole I could read Delphi DH5 5K0820803A

And when looking on Google for a  replacement clutch there seem to be different models, like the one in the third picture. Do they all automatically fit?

Are the dented bolts M6 and set in a standard pitch?  

 

Regards,

Loek (Which in Dutch is pronounced as Luke)

[J.R.]

The shear plate in the photograph will not fit on the pulley that you have, been there got the T-shirt, those hex bolts are actually rivets.

 

I had bought one so had to dig out a pulley of of an old compressor that had the tapped holes for the shear plate, problem being is that the bearing is noisy.

 

Bearing assembly comes away easily when the large circlip is removed, the problem you will have is removing the bolt holding the shear plate hub to the pump shaft if the shear plate has detached itself, an impact gun may help, years back I ended up wrecking a compressor by trying to lock the shaft to remove the bolt (think it was a nut then) the shaft was thinner than I thought and it bent, be warned!

 

Editted, not a problem now I look at the photo, you have plenty to grab hold off, the one I broke was a MK1 Octy with the electro-magnetic clutch.

Edited 21 June, 2023 by J.R.

[Loek]

Thanks J.R. for the reply.

 

My challenge will be trying to exchange the clutch with  pully while not disassemble the compressor off the engine.

There probably will be just or just not enough room for the puller in my toolkit. There also is a Youtube vieo of someone who put a big screwdrive behind the plate (of different typ) and yanked it off.

 

While the pully sounds OK when turning , my dream is to just replace the dented bolts and leave the pully on.

But as the pictures below that I grabbed from a Polish site show: the bolds seem to be screwed into ordinary nuts that can't be reached (and may fall off).

@PipH: is this also the case in the original compressor that you took apart? In that case I do have to replace the Pully as well.

 

Can anyone tell me the trick to remove and place the belt without damaging anything?

 

Hereby i may be jinxing it but thusfar my quick fix still holds 🙂

 

Cheers!

Loek

[chimaera]

On the variant on my car, there's an M6 hole in the centre of the hub assembly and you can thread a screw in there to push it off the shaft. Check if there's something similar on yours.