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PD105 EGR Cooler removal guide and SMF Conversion


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Does anyone know of a removal guide with pics? Seen a few text guides but I struggle to visualise what's going on. My cooler is essentially hanging (Had to move it out of the way for the first turbo clean attempt, bolts don't appear to have been retightened fully and are gone!) and I'm wanting to remove the whole system and hopefully clean the turbo out properly soon...

 

Also, has anyone got any experience of an SMF Conversion on the PD105? I've read many stories of bad vibration afterwards but then plenty that say it's fine!

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Cant help but will be interested in the results, I have same vehicle, same engine, same year.

 

A question, at what mileage did your turbo vanes need giving the good news with Mr Muscle?

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JR, mine currently on 169k, had the first go about 1k ago, but it's still not right so will go again. Still get limp mode and no power until 3-3500rpm.

 

Valeo I've heard is the kit to go for and a mix of TDI and VR6 parts, but wanted to hear from anyone that actually done it really as it's a hefty outlay for something that may render my car worse to drive. I'll check parts if it's a worthwhile change if not it'll unfortunately go to a scrap yard when it eventually dies fully...I can't warrant nor afford the costs of a DMF replacement!

 

The cooler sounds like a slightly fiddly but simple thing to remove but I just can't get a grasp visually on what bits join to what when removing!

Edited by MereKat
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On 19/12/2018 at 14:30, MereKat said:

Also, has anyone got any experience of an SMF Conversion on the PD105? I've read many stories of bad vibration afterwards but then plenty that say it's fine!

 

Some report noises or vibration but I never did. Only difference was a heavier pedal due to the stronger clutch I put in it. Mine was a valeo kit

Edited by SuperbTWM
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My brother-in-law has Mikeholyrood's old car which has this conversion (its the same parts as mentioned in the sticky thread in this section...as its the actual car used). And there is no vibration, no weird noises, infact up to about 2500rpm pulls more responsively/faster than my remapped 1.9 with a DMF.

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On 23/12/2018 at 15:40, MereKat said:

JR, mine currently on 169k, had the first go about 1k ago, but it's still not right so will go again. Still get limp mode and no power until 3-3500rpm.

 

 

 

Check you don't have a simple vacuum leak - very common with the 1.9pd setup usually with the small hard or flexible pipes. Vacuum used for EGR, operating turbo vanes and anti shudder valve (A clue MAY be that is shudders slightly when you turn the engine off). On mine a notch had been worn into a hard plastic pipe - looked like a mini organ pipe!

 

Be careful re removing things relating to the EGR etc - new MOT is failing loads of cars re emissions related things inc removal of bits.

 

 

Edited by bigjohn
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Bigjohn, I'll possibly remove the cooler but leave the actual EGR valve in place with a bit of bit of vac line attached (but blocked off) so it looks like it all works and just blank it off, it's been cleaned and vac line is currently disconnected, both metal flexi pipes have broken so it doesn't do anything anyway! Turbo is blanked off with a steel plate between the turbo and flexi pipe for now. Although, apart from accessibility behind the engine is there any point in removing the cooler if the turbo and valve are both blanked properly eventually?

 

I can't say I've noticed anything different when turning the engine off, although there is a slight whistle while driving so I think there is a leak somewhere, it may possibly be leaking past the egr valve itself as that isn't blanked just disconnected but I can't find which area it's coming from as you can't hear it at idle. I'll give it another look at some point, having time to do it is an issue!

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