Hey!

So my key got stuck in the ignition while it was on, i could not turn the key to turn it off. So what i did was i took a pair of pliers and forcefully turn the key which worked but now the ignition barrel i broken. i have ripped out the wires from the ignition. Which wires do i connect to start the car again? I only want to drive it to the scrap and would really like not needing to tow it. Thanks!

We don't even know what car you have

16 hours ago, RicardoM said:

We don't even know what car you have

Oh well don't i feel dumb...

 

I own a rusty old skoda felicia 1,3 from the year 2000

1) Connect red wire to black wire. This is key ON position.

2) Touch yellow wire(s) to connection above to run the starter.

Note: the stub of the original broken key has to be near the ignition key lock. Otherwise the immobilizer will send a signal to cut the fuel in 2 seconds.

On 05/01/2019 at 03:46, RicardoM said:

1) Connect red wire to black wire. This is key ON position.

2) Touch yellow wire(s) to connection above to run the starter.

Note: the stub of the original broken key has to be near the ignition key lock. Otherwise the immobilizer will send a signal to cut the fuel in 2 seconds.

 

The first part does what it's supposed to but the second part doesnt to anything.

Check the wiring for the yellow wire up to the starter.

Just now, RicardoM said:

Check the wiring for the yellow wire up to the starter.

It's connected to the starter. 

24 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

Check the wiring for the yellow wire up to the starter.

How do i test the starter? i would like to make sure it's actually working and didn't break during the mishap

 

Edited 11 January, 20197 yr by RicardoM

37 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

 

Dude thank you so much, i finnally have my answear. The starter is toast and i know what happened. the key must have gotten stuck in the start postition and burnt the starter which explains the burnt smell when it happened. There's just one question left in my mind, while the black and red wires was connected i tried pushing the car and starting it that way but no matter how many times i did it there was no sign of life.... which i find odd.  Anyways of to the scrapyard tomorrow and getting a new starter it is.

If you would have mentioned the burnt smell from the beginning...

48 minutes ago, daiced said:

There's just one question left in my mind, while the black and red wires was connected i tried pushing the car and starting it that way but no matter how many times i did it there was no sign of life.... which i find odd.

The engine has a computer and an immobilizer, remember?

Edited 11 January, 20197 yr by RicardoM

@daiced @RicardoM _ Well, I'm now thinking that you need to investigate how the key stuck in the start position, yes Ricardo?

6 hours ago, KenONeill said:

@daiced @RicardoM _ Well, I'm now thinking that you need to investigate how the key stuck in the start position, yes Ricardo?

I'm just assuming that the mechanical parts inside the ignition switch wore out. Although as soon as the car is running again i'm gonna take apart the ignition switch to see what it was that gave out.

6 hours ago, RicardoM said:

If you would have mentioned the burnt smell from the beginning...

The engine has a computer and an immobilizer, remember?

Sorry completely slipped my mind, I remembered the burnt smell as soon as i opened the starter motor.

 

Well i have wedged the immobiliser chip in the reader coil and the car was set up as if the key was in the on position, isn't that enough?

Let's see what happens when you'll have a good starter.

On 12/01/2019 at 17:22, RicardoM said:

Let's see what happens when you'll have a good starter.

Well the plot thickens...
I picked up a starter from the scrapyard and it's now installed on the car. So now the engine turns over but no start, only briefly after the pump has primed. So it seems like i have a Immobiliser problem now. How about that the starter the ignition switch and the Immobiliser all at the same time...

Any ideas on solving this? Btw don't know if it's relevant the symbol for the brakes won't go of and i remember it coming on when this all started. (the symbol furthest to the left in the picture is the one that is staying on)

Edited 14 January, 20197 yr by daiced

So now you have a good original ignition key?

Have you restored the wiring to ignition switch?

IIRC, there is connection between ignition switch and brake checklight, so check if you have right connection. There's also connection to X-relay - does radio or headlights work after turning ignition on?

 

Have you checked all fuses? Looks like you have atleast one fuse blown (12V socket, inner lighting and digital clock in instrument panel, Nr.15). Immobiliser fuse can be blown, too

Edited 15 January, 20197 yr by Papez

12 hours ago, RicardoM said:

So now you have a good original ignition key?

Have you restored the wiring to ignition switch?

I bought a cheap ignition switch and wired it up like you described and it works as it should and the immobiliser chip is wedged onto the reader coil.

On 15/01/2019 at 10:33, Papez said:

IIRC, there is connection between ignition switch and brake checklight, so check if you have right connection. There's also connection to X-relay - does radio or headlights work after turning ignition on?

 

Have you checked all fuses? Looks like you have atleast one fuse blown (12V socket, inner lighting and digital clock in instrument panel, Nr.15). Immobiliser fuse can be blown, too

You were correct fuse number 15 was blown, BUT it made no difference... :( Also i think that fuse has been blown since before because the interior light and everything that now works didn´t work before when the car was working.

 

Also the stereo and headlight does work with the key in the on postition.

Edited 16 January, 20197 yr by daiced

IF you have the original key chip, the car should start fine.

Just curious, why did you feel the need to rip the wires from the ignition key lock of your own car? The wires have connectors easy to pull out...

17 hours ago, RicardoM said:

IF you have the original key chip, the car should start fine.

Just curious, why did you feel the need to rip the wires from the ignition key lock of your own car? The wires have connectors easy to pull out...

Hehe ... Well first of all it's the original key chip and it has had no problem with that chip. And as i said the ignition switch is toast. the only way to get the key out when it got stuck was with a pair of pliers which the switch didn't survive, therefore i ripped the wires off and snipped the ends to make it easier to try different combinations of cables to get it to work. 

 

Now back to the matter is it possible that the immobiliser somehow stopped working and that's why the key got stuck in the first place? What is left to do, to get the car up and running? 

11 minutes ago, daiced said:

Now back to the matter is it possible that the immobiliser somehow stopped working and that's why the key got stuck in the first place?

The key can't got stuck due to an immobilizer fault. The ignition key switch is not so "intelligent" (we're talking about a Skoda Felicia). Most probable some springs or sliding contacts broke.

 

15 minutes ago, daiced said:

What is left to do, to get the car up and running?

You need a VAG-COM interface to read the errors stored in ECU and proceed accordingly.

@daiced - I agree with Ricardo that a mechanical ignition key can't get stuck in the lock because of an immobiliser fault.

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

The key can't got stuck due to an immobilizer fault. The ignition key switch is not so "intelligent" (we're talking about a Skoda Felicia). Most probable some springs or sliding contacts broke.

 

You need a VAG-COM interface to read the errors stored in ECU and proceed accordingly.

Where in vagcom do i find the errors? in obd section or somewhere else?