To be fair, sep, you were referring specifically to flow through the high pressure chamber (the key functional part in this context) within the tappets, where my black arrow points, which will indeed see much less flow, as it needs to hold pressure when the inlet ball/spring valve at the top of it is closed.

I haven't taken a tappet apart to see how tiddly that ball/spring bit is, but the leakdown path round the outsides of the piston will necessarily be fairly tiny, so turnover of oil will indeed be slow.

 

Nothing changed, the 1.4 has different lifters which are prone to clogging, it's an older design than the 1.2, I imagine the 1.2 benefited from revised porting to reduce clogging.

I see 030109423 being used for all the 1.2 and 1.4/16v engines in mk1s in the parts catalogue?

7 hours ago, Wino said:

I see 030109423 being used for all the 1.2 and 1.4/16v engines in mk1s in the parts catalogue?

 

In that case you must be right and I must be wrong and the thread is all the richer for it.

Treat yourself to a whole packet of biscuits.

Well as I conceded at the top of the page, there are tiny oil pathways in and out of the innards of the lifter, as well as the bigger ones through it, so you're right on that one, having a biccy yourself.

 

I'm planning to take a spare lifter apart over the weekend, to see how it looks deep within.

Edited 1 February, 20197 yr by Wino

Drove another 200 odd miles in it Friday, not really any quieter. Around town the revs seem to be where it is noisest & at 60-70 you can't hear it!

 

So far I have:

Added Hydraulic tappet oil additive around 250 miles ago - no difference

Filled up with Super unleaded (still had a 1/4 tank of standard unleaded it it but topped it up to full with super unleaded) Driven around 30 miles - no difference

Removed alternator belt - no difference

 

I have looked at getting a rocker cover gasket so I can take the cover off & have a look. I can't find one & keep finding sealant only - Is this correct? Any useful links?

 

I had a look for the oil sperator & can't seem to find it. Is it the plastic block that the throttle body bolts to?

 

My neighbour who is a toolmaker by trade & heavily into rebuilding motorbikes had a look/listen. He thinks it is cambelt end of the engine. He suggested it could be something related to an anti-vibration device failing such as a sual mass flywheel or the crank pulley. He doesn't think it sounds tappety or pinking, he described it as weird! Any thoughts?

 

Not going to have much time during the week to do anything to it but want to get some parts in for next weekend to try & sort this! Meanwhile the wife intends to do around 500 miles in it this week.........

 

Yep, sealant instead of gasket I think, will look up a removal/replacement procedure for you.

 

Breather box is below inlet manifold, just above sump, not exactly sure which engine code this photo shows but it's probably about the same on yours.

 

Start here and keep clicking next https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/power_unit/1.4/55;_59;_74_kw_mpi_engine/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/cylinder_head/cylinder_head_summary_of_components_(for_engine_identification_characters_bky_bud)/

1 hour ago, Zebedee2001 said:

 

My neighbour who is a toolmaker by trade & heavily into rebuilding motorbikes had a look/listen. He thinks it is cambelt end of the engine. He suggested it could be something related to an anti-vibration device failing such as a sual mass flywheel or the crank pulley. He doesn't think it sounds tappety or pinking, he described it as weird! Any thoughts?

 

 

 

Not sure if the same sort of noise but our  02 Polo engine started to get noisy at the cambelt end,a funny noise and difficult to describe but which I associated with rotating components.I took the polo into a local VW specialist and asked him to change the cambelt/water pump/tensioner etc (£450 - all genuine parts),I looked at the removed parts with the guy and neither of us could positively identify the culprit LOL - but luckily it cured the noise,the cambelt was within a couple of months of a calender replacement anyway (5 years) so I did not mind spending the money.

The noise had started in the evening before we were due to fly out of Gatport Airwick on holiday but I certainly did not want to risk a 470 mile 8 hr  thrash down the motorways so we had to do a last minute change to our Fabia 1.9tdi,we usually take the polo to airports etc cos it is not worth much 

2 hours ago, Wino said:

Start here and keep clicking next https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/power_unit/1.4/55;_59;_74_kw_mpi_engine/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/cylinder_head/cylinder_head_summary_of_components_(for_engine_identification_characters_bky_bud)/

Ahhhh, so you mean there isn't a cover to remove to see the tappets etc. I actually have to remove the cambelts, then I can remove the camshaft carrier! Eek!

Anybody got any tips on removing the crank pulley? Windygun won't touch it & I'm struggling to lock it to use other means!

 

 

 

Wino or anyone else, is this normal? The alignment marks on the crank to camshaft seem to be out ever so slightly, took the spark plugs out again & used my borescope camera again & noticed this! The last pic is of cylinder 1. All other cylinders are similar to the first two pics with lesser markings. I assume that the valves have been hitting the cylinders & that isn't good! Am I going to be OK to just replace the cambelt & re-time or am I going to have to strip the head off & check? Or am I completely wasting my time & the engine is knackered

Maybe not a timing issue. Just went back & got the crank to TDC & could insert drill shafts into both the camshaft locking holes. HELP!

Those witness marks are on the piston crowns, that can happen if the engine is accidentally over-revved on a downchange and the valves graze the crowns, it doesn't mean there's any damage.

You're over-reacting, you need to get past this by driving the car, you've said it pulls strongly and drives well so it's obviously healthy.

Like I said, they can be noisy, turn the radio up.

18 hours ago, Zebedee2001 said:

Am I going to be OK to just replace the cambelt & re-time

 

Gotta be worth a go now that you've come this far, I should think? Might explain the noises you've been hearing.

19 hours ago, Zebedee2001 said:

Maybe not a timing issue. Just went back & got the crank to TDC & could insert drill shafts into both the camshaft locking holes. HELP!

 

Please read my post, you don't need to do anything, if you're absolutely determined to make this engine silent then replace ALL the hydraulic lifters, however it may not be silent for very long.

Last photo seems to show damage between the 'valve prints' which may be more of a concern. The fact that the marks in all cylinders are all shiny suggests that this is ongoing, doesn't it?

21 minutes ago, Wino said:

Last photo seems to show damage between the 'valve prints' which may be more of a concern. The fact that the marks in all cylinders are all shiny suggests that this is ongoing, doesn't it?

 

OP has confirmed the timing is correct, the only other option for valves grazing the piston crown is over-revving on a downshift, there can't be any damage otherwise the valve heads would be slightly bent resulting in a noticeable loss of compression and performance. There is no other mechanism unless the engine has previously lost timing in a belt related event which has been subsequently repaired.

A simple compression test would confirm any valve head damage beyond all doubt. The witness marks on the piston crowns are not an issue, these are low-compression pistons from the 75 BHP variant rather than raised crown with valve cutouts found on the 100 BHP version.

Edited 11 February, 20197 yr by sepulchrave

6 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Please read my post, you don't need to do anything, if you're absolutely determined to make this engine silent then replace ALL the hydraulic lifters, however it may not be silent for very long.

 

Agreed, as previously mentioned my car with almost the same engine has made this noise from a young age and low mileage and I've heard others like it.

 

Also the indentations in the pistons are part of the original design and you are seeing difference in reflections, eg:-

https://www.tornau-motoren.de/en/engine-parts-spare-parts/engine-engine-components-cooling/pistons/piston-set-76-51-vw-golf-6-1-4-16v-036107065dp-cgg-bud-bxw.html

 

I'd say just drive it!

Edited 11 February, 20197 yr by bigjohn

1 hour ago, bigjohn said:

Also the indentations in the pistons are part of the original design and you are seeing difference in reflections

Good work.

Compression tested all four cylinders. All >250psi.

 

 

3 minutes ago, Zebedee2001 said:

Compression tested all four cylinders. All >250psi.

 

 

 

Nothing to see here, engine healthy, just suffering from lack of use, put petrol in it and drive.

Zebedee - you would perhaps have been impressed by the racket our AUB was making at 0730 this morning whilst it was idling outside  @ - 2c whilst warming up/defrosting,by the time we got to the Gliding Club 35 miles away - sweet as a nut 

 

Just now, YS53 said:

Zebedee - you would perhaps have been impressed by the racket our AUB was making at 0730 this morning whilst it was idling outside  @ - 2c whilst warming up/defrosting,by the time we got to the Gliding Club 35 miles away - sweet as a nut 

 

Unfortunately this noise doesn't really ever get better, cold, hot & inbetween it rattles. The options I have at the moment are divorce (the wife says I need to do something about it), drive around at 70mph (it disappears at high speed-I assume goes outside my hearing range!) or turn the radio up loud (wife won't accept this as an option!). It was only doing in it under load/accerlation but now is doing it all the time............

Have you carried out a good quality oil and filter change ? might be worth a go if not ?

Our engine gets noisier when approaching oil change mileage,oil grade (viscosity) might affect any mechanical noise.

I usually use a Mann Filter and Triple QX 5w40 from ECP,I standardised on a Mann filter thus far because different manufacturers sometimes have different 'Hex' sizes on the filter body.

I had not realised the noise had changed to permanent! 

Edited 11 February, 20197 yr by YS53