Skoda superb 1.8 tsi rebore - drinking oil again

[Mdk1970]

Hi, 

I've got a 2011 skoda superb estate 1.8 tsi petrol. I bought it with 81k on the clock 7 months ago . It was drinking oil (4 litres in 2000 miles). I took it back to the garage where I bought it from. The owner was extremely helpful. We knew (through this site and other websites) that the only remedy was engine strip down, rebore, then new pistons and rings. 

This was carried out free of charge. The guy who carried out the rebore said he wasn't surprised it was drinking oil as the cylinder walls were scored. After the rebore, he had re-honed the cylinder walls and new pistons were fitted. 

I took the car back to the garage after 150 miles and the oil hadn't budged. Great. I went back after a total of 300 miles and it was still exactly on the maximum. We were both happy it had been fixed. However, I checked the oil when I had reached 1000 miles and it was down to the minimum. 

I topped it back up to the maximum and have just checked it after 200 miles - down to the minimum. 

 

Does anyone have any idea why this could be happening as it seemed like the issue was fixed. I'm so frustrated. The garage owner has been fantastic. The car runs brilliantly and has done since I bought it. I love everything about the car, except the oil drinking. Help! 

 

[jafo]

Head gasket problem ? 

[Mdk1970]

It's never overheated, and there's no milky liquid in the oil. The performance is still spot on too. Do you think the head gasket may only be passing a little bit? 

[xman]

Did you fit oversize pistons and rings? And were they gen 1, 2 or 3 parts? Did you flush/clean the engine properly?

Edited 28 January, 2019 by xman

[Mdk1970]

I don't honestly know the answers to this. Are you thinking that maybe contaminates have scratched the re-honed cylinder walls? 

Would you have any idea on how the exact cause of the new oil consumption could be determined without pulling the engine back to bits? 

Do you think there is any chance that everything is seating in? I have read on other sites that after engine rebuilds that oil consumption can go up, then sorts itself out (don't know how or why but I really don't know which way to take things now). 

The car runs beautifully. It's just so frustrating 

[jafo]

I think you have 3 options:

1) leak into coolant, 

2) goes into tailpipe, 

3) leaking outside of the engine. 

[Mdk1970]

I just spoke to the company that did the rebore. He says the bore will be glazed, making it too smooth - due to not driving it hard enough. Harder driving supposedly burns off these deposits on the cylinder wall. I don't know if there is any truth in this, and how you then correct it. I'll be speaking to him again tomorrow so will let you know the outcome. Supposedly he knows of some additive that can sort it. 

[Danny 57]

That may sound a fob off but My bike when new had to have mineral oil for the first 500 miles to allow the bore to bed in before switching to semi/full synthetic oil.

[Mdk1970]

Hi Danny. 

Funnily enough, when I rang him back today he said that there's something called Millers Oils Liquid Glaze Bust. It's mineral based and you only run it in for 200 miles then change the oil. He knows a few people that have used it and had good results. 

 

I'm going to try running the engine at higher load first for a while . Its automatic so it never gets high revs for a long time, but with it having the DSG box I'll put it into manual and push it harder and see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't, I'll try the glaze remover. 

He basically said the design of the engines is utter rubbish and they are just prone to glazing and passing oil. 

 

I'll let you know if I get sorted. 

 

Has anybody had experience of Millers Liquid Glaze Bust? 

[Ootohere]

I have experienced bull-sh!t.  Any reason the Engine Builder never actually used Millers Liquid Glaze Bust from the rebuild?

  So what oil is in the engine now?

[bigjohn]

The old 2.0 8v 115 petrol was prone to burning oil if you didn't run it in correctly ie If you drove it too gently. My dad had a 2001 2.0 auto Octavia bought from new as did a friend of his. I told him how to run it in (otherwise he would have been tooooo gentle) but his friend just pootled around. His friends 2.0 drank lots of oil (to the point he got fed up and got rid) but his never needed topping up in the whole time he had it (all engines will burn a little oil even if it is just from the splash lubrication of the bores - it's when you have  piston/ring, valve seal problems and/or excessive crankcase pressure (usually blocked crankcase ventaltion) that you start really noticing.

 

Once opon a time most cars came with a "special" oil fitted from new that was change after the first 1,000 miles. Clearly as fleet users demand long service intervals.......

 

In your case it is likely to be something like this as even if they had fitted the old style pistons and rings I don't think they would have gummed up in 2000 miles. Get it out on the open road and at times give a few beans - the best is to vary your driving for the first few thousand miles. A newly done bore is usually honed to help this process and allow things to bed in.

Edited 30 January, 2019 by bigjohn

[Mdk1970]

1 hour ago, Skoffski said:

I have experienced bull-sh!t.  Any reason the Engine Builder never actually used Millers Liquid Glaze Bust from the rebuild?

  So what oil is in the engine now?

The rebore had the cylinder walls honed (I have photos) and slightly larger pistons were used. Millers glaze bust shouldn't have been needed, but it's never been pushed hard in the first 1000 miles, so it's possible it's glazed over. 

It's got 5w 30 fully synthetic in it, and from what I've read and heard it's not the best after you've had this work done. How true, I don't know. 

[Mdk1970]

46 minutes ago, bigjohn said:

The old 2.0 8v 115 petrol was prone to burning oil if you didn't run it in correctly ie If you drove it too gently. My dad had a 2001 2.0 auto Octavia bought from new as did a friend of his. I told him how to run it in (otherwise he would have been tooooo gentle) but his friend just pootled around. His friends 2.0 drank lots of oil (to the point he got fed up and got rid) but his never needed topping up in the whole time he had it (all engines will burn a little oil even if it is just from the splash lubrication of the bores - it's when you have  piston/ring, valve seal problems and/or excessive crankcase pressure (usually blocked crankcase ventaltion) that you start really noticing.

 

Once opon a time most cars came with a "special" oil fitted from new that was change after the first 1,000 miles. Clearly as fleet users demand long service intervals.......

 

In your case it is likely to be something like this as even if they had fitted the old style pistons and rings I don't think they would have gummed up in 2000 miles. Get it out on the open road and at times give a few beans - the best is to vary your driving for the first few thousand miles. A newly done bore is usually honed to help this process and allow things to bed in.

Hi John, 

Yes, I agree. Treating it too gently doesn't do it any good. I'll take it out for a few runs in the next 1000 miles, and if its no good I'll try the millers oils glaze bust. It's only £20. Worth a try. 

[Ootohere]

Best drop that VW504/507 5w 30 FS LL and get in 5w 40 FS to VW502 00 IMO. 

 

 Long life oil, Higher Octane fuel, TSI engines and Oil use...

[safari hunter]

Try to inspect the spark plugs, they will tell an accurate story about where the oil is leaking. 

Edited 6 February, 2019 by safari hunter