VRS MK2 - Check Engine Light - P2237, 04350

[jamescarroll]

Evening all, wondering if someone can help me out with diagnosing a problem that’s cropped up on my VRS (MK2 CTHE) recently.

 

The check engine light came on a week or so ago. Plugged in an OBD and connected Torque to find the P2237 error code. I cleared the code in case it was a one off but it reappeared the next day.

 

A quick search found the following description for that code:

 

“The upstream oxygen sensor for engine bank 1 has delivered a voltage signal that is not within the accepted parameters, causing the PCM to store a trouble code and possibly illuminate the service engine soon light. B1 denotes bank 1 of the engine block (typically the bank that contains the #1 cylinder). S1 tells you that the fault is found in sensor 1, or the upstream sensor (forward of the catalytic converter/s).”

 

I’ve since check over the sensor and wiring, lightly cleaned and refitted (a new one is on order along with some new spark plugs just in case).

 

Today, I got a new OBD device and ran it through Carista which showed an additional engine fault code on top of the original error code: 04350

 

After clearing, the latter code comes back immediately but the original error code doesn’t.

 

I sadly can’t find any information on the latter code. If anyone is able to help on this it would be much appreciated!

 

The idle was definitely rough whilst I was checking it was Carista tonight. Almost to the point of stalling a few times. That’s probably the longest I’ve sat in the car at idle for a while.

 

If it will help, here’s a little more context on the car. It seems to be running fine at the moment other than the above. It was serviced in December at a main dealer. I’m almost certain there is a vacuum leak somewhere as there is a high pitched hiss near the back of the engine that I haven’t been able to lock down after hours of searching.

 

Any input much appreciated! We have a few VAG specialists locally so I’m thinking of running the car down on Saturday to see if they can help diagnose the issue.

 

Always keen to see on the Briskoda crowd have anything to add though!

 

 

Thanks,

James

Edited 31 January, 2019 by jamescarroll

[Kobayashi]

not had this particular fault but corroded wires somewhere could be cause where sensors are involved. Defo needs scanning with VCDS,

Torque pro, carista  etc..dont search deep enough. Probably wont be anything major

[jamescarroll]

Thanks for the input Kobayashi.

 

I was on the hunt for shorted cables on the sensor loom but it all looked surprisingly good. The sensor itself was even looking pretty decent.

 

Check engine light hasn’t reappeared after a brisk half hour run. Will see what the morning brings!

 

Also just checked the fuse for the lambda sensor, all good there from visual inspection.

 

Hopefully the garage can fit me in for a quick check over with VCDS on Saturday.

 

Will post back with updates for sure.

 

P.S. Always nice to hear from another Northerner running a VRS!

Edited 31 January, 2019 by jamescarroll

[Ootohere]

What was done at the Service in December.  What parts changed, were the spark plugs changed?

 

How many miles has your car done?

[Kobayashi]

yes missed the spark plugs as Skoffski says - these can throw up all sorts of faults, Had minor issues myself

 

This was a spark plug issue

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426844-loss-of-power-weird-vibration/

 

This was a wiring issue, but replaced the sensor anyway

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/424630-p0118-engine-coolant-temperature-circuit-high-input/

 

[jamescarroll]

Hey all, quick update!

 

Ta for the ongoing input as always.

 

Just got back from the local VAG specialist. They managed to fit me in at short notice, always nice.

 

Print out from the diagnostics shows two engine management codes:

 - P150300 - Load signal from alternator terminal DF implausible signal.

 - P223700 - O2 Sensor positive current control circuit bank 1 sensor 1 open.

 

Booked in for a replacement alternator next week. They’re going to swap out the plugs and lambda sensor with the parts I’ve got on order as well. Hopefully on the way to being sorted.

 

Also enquired about a timing chain change, waiting on a cost for that... aiming to put an induction kit on and have the ECU mapped in the future but want to make sure it’s solid beforehand!

 

Also, as an edit - no spark plug changes when serviced in December. Just checked the service book. A little surprised actually. I was expecting them to pick that up. Never assume!

 

 

Regards,

James

Edited 2 February, 2019 by jamescarroll
Update

[Ootohere]

All a bit much IMO.

 

The Skoda / VW way, AKA 'The Robert the Bruce way'.    Try try and try again and if still a fault code try another part.  It is just money, the owners money.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/457262-2013-fabia-mk-ii-vrs-rattle-to-left-of-engine

 

Edited 2 February, 2019 by Skoffski

[jamescarroll]

15 minutes ago, Skoffski said:

All a bit much IMO.

 

The Skoda / VW way, AKA 'The Robert the Bruce way'.    Try try and try again and if still a fault code try another part.  It is just money, the owners money.

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/457262-2013-fabia-mk-ii-vrs-rattle-to-left-of-engine

 

 

Hey, not sure I understand.

 

If error codes are present showing errors on specific parts, why wouldn’t you look to replace or repair in the first instance?

 

Then if that doesn’t address the issue you’d look deeper as required.

 

Otherwise you could spend time and money on hunting issues that may not be there.

 

Seems logical to me to be honest!

[Breezy_Pete]

Alternator load signal faults are 99.99% broken wire problems (on Mk1s anyway), not alternator itself. It would be very upsetting, wouldn't it, to have the alternator replaced and still have the same fault code?

[UrbanPanzer]

Could just be the voltage regulator on the alternator, which would be a £30 fix as opposed to £150 +++

 

Alternators "mechanically" rarely go wrong, if they do then,  99% of the time there is noise and symptoms long before fault codes.

 

Has the charging system been checked ? simple checks with a multimeter would tell a lot.....

 

 

 

[jamescarroll]

Hey all, 

 

Still having a little fun with this one.

 

Quite a bit of back and forth with the garage but the I think/hope the issue with the alternator is sorted. I asked them to dig a bit deeper to dive if we really needed a new one -  they ran a further check and said that the rectifier was the source of the ‘implausible signal’ code. Replacement now fitted. Fingers crossed on that one.

 

I am still getting the P223700 error code, however. Even after a sensor and spark plug change.

 

Will be hunting again this weekend.

 

On the upside, I’ve managed to find the source of the vacuum leak mention in the original post too.

[jamescarroll]

Hey all, just wanted to follow up. It’s looking like this is all sorted now.

 

Having given the car a good look over on the drive, I couldn’t see anything obviously off with the lambda sensor, the connector or even the relevant fuses. Starting to suspect a shorted wire somewhere, I booked it in with my usual local garage and they’ve had a run over the cabling and found some worn wires that had already been taped over at some point previously. Now properly repaired!

 

Pikced it up earlier today, no check engine light so far! Hopefully job done!

[Kobayashi]

15 hours ago, jamescarroll said:

Hey all, just wanted to follow up. It’s looking like this is all sorted now.

 

Having given the car a good look over on the drive, I couldn’t see anything obviously off with the lambda sensor, the connector or even the relevant fuses. Starting to suspect a shorted wire somewhere, I booked it in with my usual local garage and they’ve had a run over the cabling and found some worn wires that had already been taped over at some point previously. Now properly repaired!

 

Pikced it up earlier today, no check engine light so far! Hopefully job done!

 

glad nothing serious had a gut feeling it would be 'corroded' or 'loose wires' somewhere.  Where there is any colour wires sticking out of  black sheath its worth using black electrical tape just re -insulate being careful not to stretch the colour coded wires from whatever they are connected to. Ive done this to a few that can see from engine bay, but i would never just 'tape' them back together if they were split apart. That makes it harder to find the fault

Edited 28 February, 2019 by Kobayashi