UrbanPanzer

You do realise this topic was almost 6 years ago !!!

Nice kit on Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CCLIFE-Caliper-Thread-Threads-Compatible/dp/B01M8GJPLM

Erm if anyone deciphers what that sound is from that short 2 second video then they are genius !! Was the noise there BEFORE the suspension components were changed ? The FIRST thing to do is, jack the front side up, spin the wheel by hand and see if the noise is there then. Could be the CV joint was also damaged due to the impact, or something is simply misplaced… Does the noise change at low speed when turning ? eg spinning round in a car park with the steering in full lock…

Here is a basic diagram, this will work for any additional lamps. Wiring used between relay and lamps, and battery to relay (86,87,30) needs to be able to cope with the potential current draw the lamps have, a pair of 55watt spots would need 15 amp cable. If they are LEDS then that would be lower. Personally I would use 15amp cable as over engineering never hurts and future proofs the circuit if any additional loads are added, especially if LEDS. Wiring spliced of the main beam supply (85) only needs to be minimal size like 3 amp as it only “signals” the relay coil to operate. If you want a choice of the additional lamps to operate when main beam is on, then simply add a switch to the terminal 85 feed.

If you do eventually need a new BCM, I have a brand new one available which is the latest version, it’s listed on EBay now, but if you are interested let me know, will be far cheaper than a dealer price. Ps anyone who does this needs VCDS or similar to copy your current BCM settings to the new one, if your not using a dealer which I fully understand, ideally a VAG specialist or even a competent user on here with VCDS.

you should never piggy back of any lighting circuit when fitting additional lamps. You should install a new circuit which should be fed from the battery then via a relay and "controlled" by the high beam circuit. So yes you can use the "signal" from the high beam circuit to control the relay for any additional lamps, the same "feed" that tells the shutters to open if you have projector headlamps.

MAN is VAG…..probably came from the same refinery.

Typical VAG part numbers confusing everyone, the last letter can make all the difference….. The part numbers for 288mm discs are 6R0615312D 6R0615311D https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6r0615311d-brake-shroud-front-left-skoda-24180.html

I would be tempted to have a very good look for the looms, maybe even remove the front bumper if you cannot see much and see if the plugs are clipped up out the way, you never know.

100% worth the money, modern car design means no traditional rain gutters where the roof panel meets the side panels and with many cars I have had the early morning moisture pours in the window when using the wipers as it also does when you use screen wash if the window is open. Did it with the Fabia, my Astra K and currently with my Kia Sportage as well, and with the Astra and Kia the water pours right into the window switches, so annoying. The other huge benefit in my opinion is you can have the windows cracked open when is raining, not only does this stop steaming up, but if you like to have fresh air it also stays dry inside, this also stops water being blown in when the wipers are also going ref original point above. Other positives, “if” you smoke ( gave up years ago) you can have the window open when it’s raining, you can also crack the windows down a little in warmer times when leaving the car so at least some air circulates. I’m sure every car is different, but another positive for me is again modern cars are generally so much more aerodynamic that when you open a window the noise and even the buffeting when at speed can be significant, my Kia is like this but having the wind deflectors significantly reduces or even stops this. My last 4 vehicles, Land Rover Discovery, my Fabia vRs, my Astra K and currently my Kia Sportage all had / have Heko deflectors. The Astra and Kia are company cars but I have bought them myself as for me they are a priceless mod. Happy to buy them for any car I own, my latest wild purchase which is a Jap import Kei wagon also has them from the factory. So regarding the fitment of them, they generally fit very well, in fact getting them in my Kia was a hairy moment with the amount of flex required to get them into the channel, but this shows how well they are designed and fit each car, this leads me onto my second point, they also come with some metal U clips which should go up in the channel as well to help hold them in place, I personally don’t like that part, so to date I have not used them, I rely on the adhesive tape that most of them also have and even add a little more so it sticks against the weather seal up inside the channel. Not sure about the Kodiaq, but the Heko deflectors were an official factory accessory for the Fabia 2, mine had them from new, just a positive coincidence that prior to that I had purchased Heko for my Land Rover. I guess you can take from this I like them, I hope it helps you decide one way or the other.

In all honesty, if your not going to buy a decent scan tool that will diagnose and clear the fault, then you might as well pay a garage for an hours labour to plug in and tell you what the fault is.

Not sure I follow where you are looking for what. ”if” you have disconnected ANY of the seatbelt connections on the buckle then it is likely you have a latched airbag / SRS light and that will need a plug in to a diagnostic tool to reset / clear

It’s NOT a plug and play swap, the single H7 projectors use a shutter controlled by a relay within the headlamp for the main beam operation. There is also a difference in how the feed gets to the dash to illuminate the main beam indicator. for me, adjusting / setting the headlights at the highest setting possible on a beam setter (for MOT) and fitting a better bulb is an easier solution and does significantly improve the lights……….however if your determined on the “black” look, then you will be messing with wiring diagrams etc to get them to work correctly.

100% there is connectors at the B pillars. Changed my rear door wiring looms when retro fitting rear electric windows. you need to remove the B pillar interior trim panels

On my vRS.........a rough guide... Fitting of new indicator stalk / switch (so steering wheel / airbag removal etc) Wiring to indicator stalk plug / connector Wiring to main fuse box / adding terminals / fuse Wiring to engine ECU connector / pin (on petrol, diesel "may" be different) this involves access to scuttle area where wiper motor is, so wipers off etc and drilling through into wiring connector on bulkhead. Replacing BCM (plug and play but access is fun) Configuring BCM with VCDS or similar capable tool If you buy a genuine VAG kit, it comes with destructions and is fairly easy to follow. Attached is the overview showing which part number kit you would need V spec of your car, do NOT be tempted to buy a cheap one which is not the exact number / kit you need. I got mine from Skoda dealer online at a good price, around £200, always worth asking for a bit of discount. Cruise_control_overview_2_2013_pdf.pdf

Halfords battery, 4 year warranty, can't argue with that and "if" they do fail which is very rare, they swap them no questions asked. Halfords also supply Yuasa, those have a 5 year warranty.

as a process of elimination, you would see 12v at one wire on the lock signal and the same on another wire. if there is no voltages at all, then it's either broken wires in the door loom to the B pillar and OR the lock motor is duff (most likely)

Heko all the way...........they fit right and work well

check the door wiring loom under the grommet which goes between the door and the A pillar, possible broken wire / s in there.

Cable could be run through the main factory grommet / loom plate on the drivers side (UK CAR)....removing scuttle panel and wiper motor gives plenty of access. Images show where I added the cruise control loom. You can feel easily up above the pedals to this grommet and ensure the area is clear when you drill a hole, then you can come down the kick panel and along the sills under the trim, plenty of room under there for a battery cable. The most awkard bit would probably be up and over the rear seat hump, but once in the boot area, again loads of room.

Sounds like either a failing master cylinder OR a vacuum leak, be worth checking ALL rigid nylon vacuum pipes as they can split and intermittently leak particularly where they are pressed onto fittings / connections. Out of pure interest, why does your local "garage" not want to touch it anymore ? have they divulged into bacon butties instead !!

no folding mirrors on the Mk2 im afraid.

Workshop procedure, not included wheel arch liner because it's self explanatory and if you cannot remove that, the wing should be left to someone who can.

don't worry, probably cheap bulbs from china Fleabay and they will go REALLY bright and flicker then fail within a few weeks anyway !!🤣

interesting...............care to share ? did it work........ For what it's worth, there "may" be a setting to turn off bulb failure warning (not 100% sure and have not checked yet) , but that would then disable all warnings, not just for these number plate lights "if" the setting exists.