UrbanPanzer

Not sure I follow where you are looking for what. ”if” you have disconnected ANY of the seatbelt connections on the buckle then it is likely you have a latched airbag / SRS light and that will need a plug in to a diagnostic tool to reset / clear

It’s NOT a plug and play swap, the single H7 projectors use a shutter controlled by a relay within the headlamp for the main beam operation. There is also a difference in how the feed gets to the dash to illuminate the main beam indicator. for me, adjusting / setting the headlights at the highest setting possible on a beam setter (for MOT) and fitting a better bulb is an easier solution and does significantly improve the lights……….however if your determined on the “black” look, then you will be messing with wiring diagrams etc to get them to work correctly.

100% there is connectors at the B pillars. Changed my rear door wiring looms when retro fitting rear electric windows. you need to remove the B pillar interior trim panels

On my vRS.........a rough guide... Fitting of new indicator stalk / switch (so steering wheel / airbag removal etc) Wiring to indicator stalk plug / connector Wiring to main fuse box / adding terminals / fuse Wiring to engine ECU connector / pin (on petrol, diesel "may" be different) this involves access to scuttle area where wiper motor is, so wipers off etc and drilling through into wiring connector on bulkhead. Replacing BCM (plug and play but access is fun) Configuring BCM with VCDS or similar capable tool If you buy a genuine VAG kit, it comes with destructions and is fairly easy to follow. Attached is the overview showing which part number kit you would need V spec of your car, do NOT be tempted to buy a cheap one which is not the exact number / kit you need. I got mine from Skoda dealer online at a good price, around £200, always worth asking for a bit of discount. Cruise_control_overview_2_2013_pdf.pdf

Halfords battery, 4 year warranty, can't argue with that and "if" they do fail which is very rare, they swap them no questions asked. Halfords also supply Yuasa, those have a 5 year warranty.

as a process of elimination, you would see 12v at one wire on the lock signal and the same on another wire. if there is no voltages at all, then it's either broken wires in the door loom to the B pillar and OR the lock motor is duff (most likely)

Heko all the way...........they fit right and work well

check the door wiring loom under the grommet which goes between the door and the A pillar, possible broken wire / s in there.

Cable could be run through the main factory grommet / loom plate on the drivers side (UK CAR)....removing scuttle panel and wiper motor gives plenty of access. Images show where I added the cruise control loom. You can feel easily up above the pedals to this grommet and ensure the area is clear when you drill a hole, then you can come down the kick panel and along the sills under the trim, plenty of room under there for a battery cable. The most awkard bit would probably be up and over the rear seat hump, but once in the boot area, again loads of room.

Sounds like either a failing master cylinder OR a vacuum leak, be worth checking ALL rigid nylon vacuum pipes as they can split and intermittently leak particularly where they are pressed onto fittings / connections. Out of pure interest, why does your local "garage" not want to touch it anymore ? have they divulged into bacon butties instead !!

no folding mirrors on the Mk2 im afraid.

Workshop procedure, not included wheel arch liner because it's self explanatory and if you cannot remove that, the wing should be left to someone who can.

don't worry, probably cheap bulbs from china Fleabay and they will go REALLY bright and flicker then fail within a few weeks anyway !!🤣

interesting...............care to share ? did it work........ For what it's worth, there "may" be a setting to turn off bulb failure warning (not 100% sure and have not checked yet) , but that would then disable all warnings, not just for these number plate lights "if" the setting exists.

really ? or it's never worked...........Not a requirement in Denmark ? would have thought European approval was relevant.

in theory yes, but your not tyring to stop the low beam working, there is no Low / High beam, it's 1 bulb on when headlights are on and the shutter hides half of it until Hi beam is selected then it allows ALL the light from the bulb through. Splitting the feed to the shutter is not ideal, it's keeping the feed to the bulb (dipped beam on) which is the important bit irrespective of when the shutter is activated. The other "issue" is there won't be no feed back to the dash to show the "blue" main beam light, I see your in Denmark, in the UK that main beam indicator not working would (or should) fail the annual MOT test.

A diode just allows flow in one direction only, not sure how it would help. The issue is when the switch (stalk) is flicked forward for main beam, the internal switch in there going "through" the headlight selection switch "disconnects" the feed to the headlight dipped feed because it is wired for a twin filament bulb. The feed which "used" to operate the main beam filament is now instead operating the headlamp shutter in the projector lamp, and with a car wired for projectors, the feed to the headlamp is not cut, it's the shutter opening which gives more light.

That maybe the case, but the Fabia multi function wheel only has switches on the Left side .......the right is blank, so even "if" it's possible to plug and play (which I doubt) with a factory loom ( which would be specific to the Octavia..........I think the Fabia will be possibly "lacking" some of the connections in the car loom for the right hand switches, so you would need to wire these in manually or not use them.

Its not coding, its to do with the way one headlight has a single bulb and the other doesn't. Looking back through the thread, I see you have an early model. This model used a relay for the dim / dip setting on the bi-halogen lights......... attached are more relevant wiring diagrams. You would have to "replicate" this to enable yours to work correctly. Also here is the light switch for "YOUR" car .............you can see it states NOT for bi-halogen, it's internal connections / switches are different. So you would also need a new headlight switch, OR add / delete the current connections in the one you have now.

Well possibly, if you are selecting main beam now and you can hear the shutter open, that part is working correctly, the only thing then which can potentially cut the power to the headlamp bulb is the colum switch. Attached is the 2 wiring diagrams, you can see the difference between them. Now this may not fix it completly as there is more wiring on those with twin filament lamps as there is extra fuses etc, I would be checking the voltage / feed is "cut" at the headlight plug when you select hi beam on the colum switch

Is that from an Octavia ?

its "normal" on the standard headlamps (as per most cars)...but with the projector lamps, as the main beam is switched on, the shutter opens fully and exposes the whole bulb producing extra light, it does not go off. You need to wire them as per a vehicle which came with projector lamps. It's not a simple plug and play swap unfortunately.

you found a picture just like mine !!! 🤣

yep thats the dummy side / park light bulbs. Wired them up on mine.............

it does seem some "early" vRS's had the lights like yours......not sure when it changed to just the projector with shutter as mentioned earlier in the topic. Maybe a facelift thing. Not seen an early vRS close up, so cannot be sure but further up its stated the early ones had 2 H7 bulbs fitted.