I am looking to do a brake pad change on the front wheels of my Felicia and the timing belt, having never done them before, do I need any extra components or just the pads and the belt?
I have a Haynes manual to help do these things but that doesnt say if I need extra components.

You might want to take look in this section. Plenty of guides written by me and many other enthusiasts.

57 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

You might want to take look in this section. Plenty of guides written by me and many other enthusiasts.

Thanks, there is something about the brakes, but there isnt anything about the timing belt that I could see.

There is no timing belt on the Felicia the Felicia is a OHV engine not a OHC just good old fashioned push rods.

8 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

There is no timing belt on the Felicia the Felicia is a OHV engine not a OHC just good old fashioned push rods.

What Mike wants to say is there is no timing belt but timing chain.

As for " extra components" you have to be more specific what you mean by that.  You said you have the Haynes manual and although it is far from being perfect there is a chapter that details all the steps to replace the timing chain. You can't miss what "extra components" you need to complete the repair as you read about each operation...

16 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

What Mike wants to say is there is no timing belt but timing chain.

As for " extra components" you have to be more specific what you mean by that.  You said you have the Haynes manual and although it is far from being perfect there is a chapter that details all the steps to replace the timing chain. You can't miss what "extra components" you need to complete the repair as you read about each operation...

Oh ok so thats a job I wont have to do. 
As for extra things what Im taking about is anything I might need to do the job, as in parts that might need changing at the same time as the brake pads. If there isnt thats great I can just order the new pads and and fit them only.

 

8 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

There is no timing belt on the Felicia the Felicia is a OHV engine not a OHC just good old fashioned push rods.

Is that on all the Felicia engines then?

Sorry Im still learning these things.

Edited 22 February, 20197 yr by lotrjw

19 minutes ago, lotrjw said:

As for extra things what Im taking about is anything I might need to do the job, as in parts that might need changing at the same time as the brake pads. If there isnt thats great I can just order the new pads and and fit them only.

Brake pads wear faster than the brake disk. You will have to assess the wear of the disk as explained by Haynes manual and proceed accordingly. Everything is in there.

Another thing you should look for is uneven wear of the brake pads. That might happen if one or both pins of the caliper is/are seized. The more theory you know about mechanics, the easier will be to DIY.

9 hours ago, mikefelicia said:

There is no timing belt on the Felicia the Felicia is a OHV engine not a OHC just good old fashioned push rods.

 

1.6 and 1.9 engines are OHC.

 

@lotrjw what engine do you have?

If you have 1.6, timing belt comes with tensioner pulley. It's also recommended to change coolant pump, if it wasn't replaced before.

28 minutes ago, Papez said:

 

1.6 and 1.9 engines are OHC.

 

@lotrjw what engine do you have?

If you have 1.6, timing belt comes with tensioner pulley. It's also recommended to change coolant pump, if it wasn't replaced before.
 

Yes mine is a 1.6 which is why I was sure it had a belt over the chain.
So other than the the belt and the pump thats it then?

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

Brake pads wear faster than the brake disk. You will have to assess the wear of the disk as explained by Haynes manual and proceed accordingly. Everything is in there.

Another thing you should look for is uneven wear of the brake pads. That might happen if one or both pins of the caliper is/are seized. The more theory you know about mechanics, the easier will be to DIY.

Thanks I will check for that.

 

3 hours ago, lotrjw said:

Yes mine is a 1.6 which is why I was sure it had a belt over the chain.
So other than the the belt and the pump thats it then?

The reason for changing the water pump is that it's driven off the cambelt, and often has a life of about 1.5x the cambelt. So it's easier to change the pump when the belt's off anyway, since you'd have to replace the belt when changing the pump otherwise.

5 hours ago, lotrjw said:

Yes mine is a 1.6 which is why I was sure it had a belt over the chain.

Do you see why we use to write in our personal status the type of car and the engine our car has? Instead of telling us in your status what car you are currently driving (even mentioning Citroen in a Skoda forum is a blasphemy ) it would have been more useful to write Skoda Felicia 1.6. See my status, Papez status, etc. You will get better answers from us.

2 hours ago, RicardoM said:

Do you see why we use to write in our personal status the type of car and the engine our car has? Instead of telling us in your status what car you are currently driving (even mentioning Citroen in a Skoda forum is a blasphemy ) it would have been more useful to write Skoda Felicia 1.6. See my status, Papez status, etc. You will get better answers from us.

OK fair enough but I have a Skoda I cant drive as its off road currently, perhaps I should just put it in anyway! I dont actually own the Citroen anymore but still drive it as a family member owns it!  

Edit I have changed my profile, mention of the Citroen there has gone! 

Edited 22 February, 20197 yr by lotrjw

On 22/02/2019 at 08:50, RicardoM said:

Brake pads wear faster than the brake disk. You will have to assess the wear of the disk as explained by Haynes manual and proceed accordingly. Everything is in there.

Another thing you should look for is uneven wear of the brake pads. That might happen if one or both pins of the caliper is/are seized. The more theory you know about mechanics, the easier will be to DIY.

I had a look at my front brakes today when I was putting new wheels on, this is what they looked like:

I can't see something obviously bad but because it is a lot of dirt and rust I can't assess much on the wear of the brake pads. The brake disks seem to have enough 'meat' but their thickness should be measured with a caliper. Also it is a good idea to get rid of the 'lip' on the outer and inner part of the disk using a file.

5 hours ago, RicardoM said:

I can't see something obviously bad but because it is a lot of dirt and rust I can't assess much on the wear of the brake pads. The brake disks seem to have enough 'meat' but their thickness should be measured with a caliper. Also it is a good idea to get rid of the 'lip' on the outer and inner part of the disk using a file.

When you say 'lip' Im not sure when you mean, should I try to remove some of the rust?

 

As far as the pads are concerned, the last time it was professionally checked, a garage had said the pads were 40% ware. The previous owner then had it on the road for a few months, then sold it to me and I have had it in my garage for about a year.

So I imagine the pads have more ware than the 40% but not too much more. I have ordered new pads anyway though.

Edited 26 February, 20197 yr by lotrjw

11 minutes ago, lotrjw said:

When you say 'lip' Im not sure when you mean

 

6 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

 

 

Ah right thanks, so cleaning the rust off is a good idea then.

The brake pads chew on the brake disk during normal operation. Obviously the pads wear faster but nevertheless the disk wears too. Since the pads don't ride on the entire surface of the disk, two ridges get formed, one on the outer side and the other on the inner side of the disk. So it is not just rust. There are two ridges that need to be filed so the new pads seat well. See drawing below.

 

15 minutes ago, RicardoM said:

The brake pads chew on the brake disk during normal operation. Obviously the pads wear faster but nevertheless the disk wears too. Since the pads don't ride on the entire surface of the disk, two ridges get formed, one on the outer side and the other on the inner side of the disk. So it is not just rust. There are two ridges that need to be filed so the new pads seat well. See drawing below.

 

Ah OK I see now, so its where the rust is but more needs to come off to get them right.