The old battery was the original, so 6 or 7 years.

21 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

If battery has a faulty cell - age (er - of battery)  is not relevant. 

 

I'd just change it

 

 

Ok I have a battery test tomorrow at halfords autocentres.

 

What numbers from the results am I supposed to look to see whether my battery has passed or failed? Or shall I put my faith in halford's so called unbiased results?

 

I keep you guys updated.

Ok recently been to kwik fit instead and have the results of the battery test:

 

I bought this battery 6 months ago:

 

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/powerline/096/

 

Kwik fit results showing that the battery needs replacing because CCA measured 373 instead of the advertised figure. Voltage result is 12.36v.

 

I remember buying the battery brand new so how come it has come to this or what caused this or is it just simply a faulty or bad reviewed battery?

 

 

Very cheap at that price, I would not expect a lot from it but neither would not I a failure before  24 months.

14 hours ago, J.R. said:

Very cheap at that price, I would not expect a lot from it but neither would not I a failure before  24 months.

 

Ok so you thinks its definitely the battery if not whats the next most likely cause?

I also drive over speed humps but the vibration don't cause the issue.

I notice this intermittent problem during cold starts/cold engine. Once engine gets warmer I can drive for miles without further issues.

If it's not the battery then what is the most likely next cause?

As the battery is only 6 months old & the Tayna add says it has a 4 year guarantee, why don't you contact Tayna.

 

Send them the test results from Kwik Fit.

 

I would have thought they should exchange it FOC.

55 minutes ago, very452001 said:

 

Ok so you thinks its definitely the battery if not whats the next most likely cause?

 

I did not say that, please do not read anything more into my posting than the simple observation that I made nor think that I would have the answer for the question that you go on to ask.

 

5 hours ago, PipH said:

As the battery is only 6 months old & the Tayna add says it has a 4 year guarantee, why don't you contact Tayna.

 

Send them the test results from Kwik Fit.

 

I would have thought they should exchange it FOC.

 

Yes contacted Tanya batteries and they are playing me around  They want me to post the battery back to them so they can test themselves and make their decision from there. As if I have the means and costs to post and package back a hazardous heavy item in the delivery network and also wait around within guesstimate 2 weeks for their return procedure with no car for me to drive during this time. Surely this is not acceptable otherwise what choice do I have?

 

I bought from their ebay store using paypal. What consumer rights do I have?

Rights and responsabilities work both ways, if they paid for the return and the battery tested fine, say its a problem with your charging system they would have to send it to once you again at their cost so 2 lots of transport for a product that (under that scenario) was not faulty, did you keep the packaging box the battery was sent in? I always do just in case and some of them have been very sturdy polythene construction that will last for ever and be very handy.

 

One of the reasons that I use the BatteryMegastore is that they have (or did have) a very sensible returns procedure that takes care of the above problems, you will have to check the detail but I think they retain your credit card details, they give you a return transport label and send you out a new battery, if yours is faulty there is nothing to pay, if its not I think you pay for the new one or maybe can return it, you will pay the transport costs, cant recall all the details but it did seem really well thought out and fair. Its the same conditions for their French operation yet customer service as you know it in the UK does not exist, you normally get shafted every which way so their warranty conditions are superb for us.

 

Your battery was very very cheap by comparison to the three 096  batteries that I have bought, so as well as not expecting it to last as long (although at least 24 months) I would not expect the same bend over backwards returns procedure either.

 

Here in France its me that has to bend over backwards and spread my cheeks with a gag in my mouth!!!!

 

 

I got a receipt from Kwik Fit stating that the charging and starter systems are ok tested by their equipment Bosch BAT 131.

 

Latest update is I got a response from Tanya batteries saying a bad battery does not cause a engine to cut off while driving. Is this true? If so if it is not the battery then what is the next most likely cause after reviewing posts in this thread?

Hi another update response from Tanya Batteries:

 

 

"Many thanks for your message.

I'm afraid that as the test was done on a flat battery, the results are inconclusive. The battery at 12.36v is around 60% charged. At this voltage the battery has 373CCA, the battery has 67% of the ratted CCA. The battery also held fine under load. The test results show that the battery needs to be recharged. 

If we can be of any further assistance, please don't hesitate to contact us"
 

 

I remember driving 4 miles to Kwik Fit on that day. So are Tanya right on their above statement when I arrived at Kwik Fit with a flat battery? If so does that mean whenever somebody drives to a place the battery always suppose to be 100% charged via the alternator while driving? Battery Voltage and CCA are correlated? If so what battery voltage gives 100% CCA output then?

 

If Tanya are correct on their statement then that assumes there's something wrong with the charging system i.e. Alternator if 4 miles driving is enough to charge battery to 100% correct?

If Kwik Fit test is valid backed by a test result document showing the charging system is ok then that means Tanya batteries are talking a load of Bull right? I can upload Kwik Fit test result document here.

 

So who's right?

 

 

After starting an engine it can take upto 20 mins of running to put back what the start took out of the battery

5 minutes ago, nige8021 said:

After starting an engine it can take upto 20 mins of running to put back what the start took out of the battery

 

I remember my journey to Kwik Fit took around 20 mins or even more I guess due to traffic.

 

So what you saying that drivers should drive their cars at least 20 mins before going to any garage for a battery test? If so why dont Kwik Fit or Halfords mention this on their site?

Edited 8 April, 20197 yr by very452001

1 minute ago, very452001 said:

 

If so why dont Kwik Fit or Halfords mention this on their site?

 

So they can sell you a new battery because yours fails the test 

I am simply answering one part of your question, please dont read into it anything that I have not said or respond with "so what you are saying is.............." etc.

 

Tanya are 100% correct that a battery can only be correctly load tested when it is fully charged, a fully charged battery taken straight from a vehicle whos charging system is operating correctly (aside from a stop start battery management system) will be around 13.3 volts falling to around 12.7v after an hour or so dependant on temperature.

 

fully charge your battery using a battery charger, leave it disconnected from the car and check its voltage the next day, if its qround 12.7v take it back to Halfords and ask them to test it again.

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

I am simply answering one part of your question, please dont read into it anything that I have not said or respond with "so what you are saying is.............." etc.

 

Tanya are 100% correct that a battery can only be correctly load tested when it is fully charged, a fully charged battery taken straight from a vehicle whos charging system is operating correctly (aside from a stop start battery management system) will be around 13.3 volts falling to around 12.7v after an hour or so dependant on temperature.

 

fully charge your battery using a battery charger, leave it disconnected from the car and check its voltage the next day, if its qround 12.7v take it back to Halfords and ask them to test it again.

 

Ok around 20 mins driving is sufficient time to charge a battery or shall I double it to 40 mins to make sure?

5 minutes ago, very452001 said:

 

Ok around 20 mins driving is sufficient time to charge a battery or shall I double it to 40 mins to make sure?

The amount of time it takes to charge a battery fully is totally dependant on the state of charge to start with. I would think that 20 minutes is very optimistic and 40 is unlikely.

14 minutes ago, peter3197 said:

The amount of time it takes to charge a battery fully is totally dependant on the state of charge to start with. I would think that 20 minutes is very optimistic and 40 is unlikely.

 

Ok will an hour do regardless of state?

33 minutes ago, very452001 said:

 

Ok will an hour do regardless of state?

Your best bet is to fully charge it on the car with a charger then drive for at least 20 minutes to replace the starting use and then get it tested. 

Edited 8 April, 20197 yr by peter3197

3 hours ago, peter3197 said:

Your best bet is to fully charge it on the car with a charger then drive for at least 20 minutes to replace the starting use and then get it tested. 

 

The alternator wont charge it during an hour daytime driving with no load on the battery during driving such as no radio, no lights etc?

 

Otherwise you telling me my only option is to buy a battery charger, fully charge it then go for a drive for 20 mins just to find out whether the battery is good or not?

Edited 8 April, 20197 yr by very452001

9 hours ago, very452001 said:

 

The alternator wont charge it during an hour daytime driving with no load on the battery during driving such as no radio, no lights etc?

 

Otherwise you telling me my only option is to buy a battery charger, fully charge it then go for a drive for 20 mins just to find out whether the battery is good or not?

I have no idea whether the alternator would charge it in an hour as you say. It all depends on the state of charge when you start. I'm not telling you do anything, I'm giving you advice which you can follow or not. Perhaps others have better thoughts.

So are you saying that I have better thoughts than you do?

 

My better thought for the day is that I think I wont be taking the bait any more on this thread!

5 minutes ago, J.R. said:

So are you saying that I have better thoughts than you do?

 

My better thought for the day is that I think I wont be taking the bait any more on this thread!

I fully agree with your solution but I suspect the OP doesn't wish to take the battery off the car.

Yeah I don't want to take the bait of wasting time and money buying a battery charger because i'm surprised nobody asked the following question in this thread which is few weeks old!

 

That question is can anyone confirm whether a bad battery under load from radio, lights etc. can cause a engine to cut out while driving? 

 

Cause without the answer to above question im just throwing time and money at things I don't even need.

 

Thank you,