Hey while doing a change from my winters to summers thought I'd do a brake fluid service as well, now I've azccidently turned the brake fluid nozzle so lose it came off... anyone know how to get it properly in again?

Rear drum brake nozzle to be precise

 

It just screws in and it's called a nipple, are you sure you haven't sheared it?

Tried to screw it back in isn’t catching :( 

It should screw in easily. Are you sure you're getting it lined up properly?

You've sheared it.

There was some aluminum around the thread of the nipple... so guess im off to buy a new brake cilinder or whatever the part is called. Well atleast I tried for god sake haha 

If only the drum came off as easely damn thing is rusted against the hub i think since it turns easely

Silly question time - have you removed the screw from the brake drum?

There is a method of releasing the auto shoe adjuster by putting a screwdriver through one of the wheel bolt holes. Lever the adjuster wedge upwards. This will release the shoes from the drum. Give the drum a few taps with a hammer around its circumference if it's stuck to the hub.

 

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/chassis/brake_brake_mechanics/repairing_rear_brake/resetting_brake/

 

 

Edited 30 March, 20197 yr by TMB

Make sure you've removed the drum securing screw. Squirt a small amount of penetrating oil into the 5 holes and drum securing hole just in front of where the threads start, that is the join between the drum (plain part of hole) and the hub (threaded part) the oil will seep between the drum and the hub and should help. The other place to squirt is around the centre hole of the drum. Needs to be left to penetrate for a good half an hour, and maybe repeated a couple of times.

 

If you use a torch (phone is ideal) shine through a bolt hole positioned just past 12oclock position rotated a little toward the front of the car. Look through next hole down in direction of front of car and you should see the bottom of the adjuster wedge pulled down by a light spring. Put a  flat blade screwdriver under the wedge and hold the drum and lever the wedge up.

 

Sharp blows on the face of the drum at the edge with a heavy hammer should help release the drum from the hub.

Edited 30 March, 20197 yr by xman

For models with rear drums, be aware that once shoes are removed, the cylinders are prone to expanding, and drum will not fit back on . Another drum brake problem is the rivet between the shoes seizing.

For bleeding- consider my method of fitting a tyre valve to the tube as a one way valve. Tube to nipple, to valve.

Edited 30 March, 20197 yr by VWD

If you are not 100% sure what you are doing with brakes - DON'T - get it wrong it's life critical stuff (yours or someone else)

 

Find a local independent

 

 

Thanks evryone for the reply’s the screw holding it is indeed out, and there is no force by the shoes it’s just so rusted that ill need to use the penetrating fluid method. And bigjohn I already replaced my front rotors, pads and brake fluid in the past, if I don’t think it’s safe I wouldn’t drive with anyone else in the car.

1 hour ago, KillerTom500 said:

...if I don’t think it’s safe I wouldn’t drive with anyone else in the car.

 

Wow, I hope for your sake and the rest of us using the roads that your personal decision making process improves beyond that of a five year old child.

No need for insults sep.

Jesus I’ve made the mistake to shear the tread I came here for help and not commentary on my mechanic skills, how do you expect someone to learn something? I work in IT and learn everyday why can’t I work on my own car as long as I use my common sense? Well thanks to everyone else who atleast tried to help....

15 minutes ago, xman said:

No need for insults sep.

 

It was tongue in cheek, I couldn't find the emoji necessary to prevent third parties clutching at their pearls, I figured common sense would prevail.

By taking offence on behalf of someone else without consultation you actually make things worse.

To the OP, it was not meant as an insult, I don't know you, I was merely making a wry observation about the logical implications of your statement. I didn't for one second imagine you would be driving the car with no brakes and it wasn't me who suggested it.

 

For fecks sake.

22 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

By taking offence on behalf of someone else without consultation you actually make things worse.

To the OP, it was not meant as an insult, I don't know you, I was merely making a wry observation about the logical implications of your statement. I didn't for one second imagine you would be driving the car with no brakes and it wasn't me who suggested it.

 

For fecks sake.

 

Well it looked like a simple insult to me, and now you appear to want to drag me into it, and added a bit of profane language to boot.

 

Just wanted to say, this forum is not a place for provocative language. It loses members, and gives visitors wrong impression.

2 minutes ago, xman said:

 

Well it looked like a simple insult to me, and now you appear to want to drag me into it, and added a bit of profane language to boot.

 

Just wanted to say, this forum is not a place for provocative language. It loses members, and gives visitors wrong impression.

 

I've just offered you a perfectly reasonable explanation, and you want to escalate?

 

Please stop, I really can't imagine how you think you're helping.

Last word.....

9 hours ago, KillerTom500 said:

Thanks evryone for the reply’s the screw holding it is indeed out, and there is no force by the shoes it’s just so rusted that ill need to use the penetrating fluid method.

 

 

It will come off with a few good whacks. 

6 minutes ago, TMB said:

 

It will come off with a few good whacks. 

 

Oh it ain’t budging hahah

13 minutes ago, KillerTom500 said:

 

Oh it ain’t budging hahah

 

You could always remove the hub nut and pull the lot off. Having the hub out of the way makes fitting a new cylinder/shoes much easier too. You could separate the hub and drum once it's off the car.

Edited 31 March, 20197 yr by TMB

As suggested further up you may be able to undo the hub bearing nut and drive off the whole assembly, just make sure the auto shoe adjuster has been released as if it is all that rusty I'd bet the drums will have a rust rim that will catch on the shoes as it is withdrawn.

 

Also if it is all that rusted then the backplate could be also cream crackered. This nearly wrote off my mkI Octavia. I found cheap complete back plate assemblies from skoda-parts.com, about 67 Euros (Think they came from Czechoslovakia - good service though once you get past the ordering - I phoned in the end). Good source of cheaper parts whatever you need.

 

 

Edited 31 March, 20197 yr by bigjohn