SDI sudden loss of power

[SkUG]

are there any sensors or relays that affects fuel injectors? i bloody hate electraial gremlins... is it possible that one of them has crapped out/could i have knocked it when lookin at the fuse for my rear wiper? lookin for easy quick fixes as im still drivin (slowly) back n forth to work...

p.s. anyone got any part nunmbers for the fuel lines?

[peter3197]

A single injector wouldn't cause this. It is more likely to be the injector pump or something connected to it.

[xman]

1 hour ago, SkUG said:

p.s. anyone got any part nunmbers for the fuel lines?

 

 

Get part numbers using 7zap.com

 

Edited 10 April, 2019 by xman

[SkUG]

1 hour ago, peter3197 said:

A single injector wouldn't cause this. It is more likely to be the injector pump or something connected to it.

give us a clue what to check... i'm going to check electrical connections tomorrow (weather dependant) is there a fuel regulator that can stick? temperature sensors that'll affect the amount of fuel let through? its gotta be something simple cos theres not alot to go wrong in the sdi... (especally overnight!)

[SkUG]

sounds like same problems i'm having... will try and check the solenoid and blah blah etc

 

[LB123]

The pumps are complicated electrical beasts with two relatively simple mechanical problems. One is the fuel shutoff valve above the four injector outlets. They do fail but usualy give a code. There is also an inlet valve under an odd headed bolt beside the fuel intlet pipe. The bolt head has two opposing flats but rounded ends. These come apart but give no codes. The rest of the pump internals are voodoo magic and way beyond me. The injectors themselves are fairly passive beasts with no electronics in them apart from injector 3 which has a sensor related to injection timing feedback. I would look at those two valves first and if no joy risk a second hand VE pump off ebay with the correct part number. That's assuming you have checked the wiring from ECU to pump.

Sensors? Pretty simple. MAF, engine, fuel and air temp.

You can do a timing check visualy and use VCDS with the TDI timing checker add-on to see if the belt has skipped a notch and adjust injection timing very accurately.

[SkUG]

ahh crap, white smoke...

[xman]

9 minutes ago, SkUG said:

ahh crap, white smoke...

 

Check that belt and whether the timing has jumped.

[SkUG]

havent got timing locking tool to hand (all my tools are 300 miles away!), opened the cover and the belt looked in good condition, no splits or tears or anything untoward...

[SkUG]

hmm pulled the sensor cable off and the can has power again and is alot quieter... but alot more smoke and still louder than usual under acceleration... sensor seems to be

• Edit

working though, correct amount of ohms for the temperature.... 

 

just chceking the 10 pin plug next - 2 of them didn't have any voltage running through them.... going to check what those pins do... (anyone got a wiring diagram? / pretty picture)

 

best timing checking tool too?

Edited 14 April, 2019 by SkUG

[SkUG]

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/engine/1.9/47_sdi_engine_fuel_injection/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/testing_injection_control/testing__modulating_piston_movement_sender_g149__and__metering_adjuster_n146/ found it

[SkUG]

ordered a new usb cable reader thingymbob as my new laptop aint as clever as the vagcom software.... even after searchin for the old 409 version its still havin commincation issues... and  these little clips can do one!

not my actual photo... but i think if it wasn't broken before... it is now... flashing glow plug on dash after putting it back together... ugh - i don't wanna have to scrap my car because of stupid electric gremlins!

 

what are the chances of the three nuts on the fuel pump slipping causing timing to be out? my vcds cable is en route... lets hope im not doin too much damage to my car meanwhile...

Edited 16 April, 2019 by SkUG

[capriman]

I recall this happening to me in my first SDI. Turned out those 3 bolts on the pump vernier had slipped. It DID show a code on a laptop which gave me a clue as to where to look. it didn’t take much movement to restore everything back to normal. 

 

Use something sharp to scratch an arc around the head of one of the bolts so you know where they are now then have a play. You won’t kill it by changing the injection timing, it will either run better or run like a bag of spanner’s!

[SkUG]

PROBLEM SOLVED - the fuse 24 was corrodded (i only checked fuse 48!), replaced it and away she went! all the sluggish power restored! (must have knocked it slightly when replacing my rear wiper fuse which i removed because it wouldnt turn off because it got water in it, now rebuilt/resealed and working again)

 

huzzah! thanks for all your suggestions and ideas