Tailgate not locking

[Oilburner]

Hope somebody might be able to shed some light on this issue on my 2009 1.4tdi estate.

 

When I press the fob to lock the doors they all lock except the tailate. It's clicking closed, so it's secure but not locked. I've checked the fuse (even changed it) but no issues there. I've recently fitted a new head unit but that was a straight plug n play swap, other than that nothing has changed.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated chaps/chapesses.

 

Thanks.

[mrgf]

Do you mean a new head unit as in stereo?

I doubt that would make a difference but things are weird, sometimes on canbus stuff. The boot lock might need checking out and can go. Usually, they fail on opening, making a pop-pop-pop sound, like a machine gun. If that happens, a new lock is called for. About £30 from Skoda so not worth a second hand one, unless you are sure its fine and its cheap. 

 

Try disconnecting and re-connecting the battery with a ten or so min wait in between. might help.

[Oilburner]

I disconnected the battery and left it for 30 minutes then reconnected, but the fault still remains and will not lock the tailgate. If I close the tailgate it clicks and is secure (albeit not locked), if I raise the tailgate and press the release I can hear (what sounds like) a solenoid.  There's no 'pop pop pop' just a good solid clunk as you might expect.

 

When I said 'head unit', I was indeed referring to (what I and most people would refer to as) the stereo. But the manufacturer refers to it as a 'head unit' . Anyway.... I removed/unplugged the 'stereo' () and this made no difference, the tailgate will not lock.

 

I've tried using the key but this made no difference, also the internal lock (er indoors trying the tailgate) whilst I press the button. No luck, er indoors had great plans for the weekend..... she's not happy!

 

 

[mrgf]

>>>sorry to hear this. Sounds more a wiring fault then a boot pop fault, then. Wires often snap inside the door bellow and stop windows or mirrors, etc from operating. Also they can prevent the central locking from functioning but I would have thought the boot would use the same wire for this, as the doors do. On mine, the doors operate from a very thin, green wire and they snap too, so the remote won't lock the doors. (Not sure if the key would have operated the c/l or not, just fixed the wire). Always worth  look, though. Even the passenger door widow can fail if the DRIVERS door wire (Grey/white) Snaps.

[Oilburner]

For some strange reason the tailgate has now locked itself and now refuses to unlock. I managed to climb into the back and remove the panel to gain access to the wiring, looks like it's been played around with before. Couple of wires twisted together and covered with insulating tape. I replaced these joints with proper connectors and thought the problem was resolved, but unfortunately it wasn't. I need a wiring diagram but so far no luck, nothing in the owners manual (I didn't expect to find anything useful!) and the Haynes manual does not cover the central locking. Any source of a wiring diagram would be immensely appreciated

[Oilburner]

There's nothing more I can do, but at least I've learn't that  all the skoda jokes I've heard over the years are true.

Why the hell I ever bought a skoda I don't know

[mrgf]

Sorry you feel that way. 

The problem is, modern Skoda's are actually VW's! You will find the fault if common, lies firmly at the feet of VAG as they own and supply the parts that make up a Skoda and usually, let them have the older generation stuff. This should actually have the effect of making Skoda's MORE reliable as the parts get tried and tested and common faults should be detected and dealt with, easier. 

The wiring if interfered with, becomes the owners problem as it should have been done properly, even if the fault occurred either in or out of warranty but to cut and shut the wiring, this is a big of sorts, not a fault in its self. Whoever "Played around" With it before, was responsible for this and unfortunately, you are paying the price. 

You might need to sort the wires properly and perhaps get someone to look at things on VCDS, to see if any codes/faults are there.

 

BTW, sounds silly but have you tried using the key fob boot pop? Hold it  down for a few seconds and see if it pops the boot open. Try it with doors locked and again, with them unlocked.

Edited 30 April, 2019 by mrgf

[Oilburner]

21 hours ago, mrgf said:

BTW, sounds silly but have you tried using the key fob boot pop? Hold it  down for a few seconds and see if it pops the boot open. Try it with doors locked and again, with them unlocked.

 

I've tried this but unfortunately without success. I managed to get into the back and spring the tailgate open by inserting a screwdriver into the catch mechanism. Once I'd done that I removed the mechanism itself and tested it on a battery, it worked fine. Also there is power going into to the lock from the car. There is also a good earth from the tailgate to the car.

 

I bought an estate car to take my dogs out with me (I have no other use for a car as I live close to shops etc) so as you can imagine the car is next to useless without a working tailgate. As a pensioner my funds are limited (took out a bank loan to buy the car) so if I can't fix it myself it doesn't get fixed. I do however have an unwanted garden ornament

Edited 1 May, 2019 by Oilburner
spelling

[mrgf]

When you say there is power going to the lock, do you mean there is a live terminal or when you use the pop mechanism, you get a live feed but no action? It seems funny the lock works and there is power, without the boot opening.

[Oilburner]

I eventually called in an auto electrician, cost me a small fortune and the tailgate is still stuck. I did consider ripping out the back seats and using it as a van, but after reconsidering decided I would be no better off. Best thing I can do is put the damn thing up for sale. I certainly wouldn't consider a skoda again, absolutely no way nor any of the vw group of vehicles.

[UrbanPanzer]

if you sell every car that has a fault, you will go through a few over time !!!

 

It is more likely to be the micro switch on  the lock thats "not" telling the car the tailgate is shut, so it wont lock.

 

Do you have a MFD on the dash ? does it show the boot open ?

 

It's a long shot, but give the lock assy a good spray with contact cleaner.

 

 

Edited 12 May, 2019 by UrbanPanzer

[mrgf]

...I would actually avoid cleaning/lubing the lock assembly, or at least the popping mechanical part of it. Keep it clean with a cloth but not anything wet!

I did this some years ago, purely for servicing reasons, whilst cleaning and oiling hinges, etc  and then the pop mechanism promptly failed! When I explained the fault to my local dealer, he said the mechanisms are quite sensitive and temperamental. The issue I had, was that once you pop the boot, it kept on pop-pop-popping, for many seconds, before opening, like a machine gun firing off. I had to replace the unit at around £28. Never lubed it again, never had an issue again. 

[Oilburner]

5 hours ago, mrgf said:

...I would actually avoid cleaning/lubing the lock assembly, or at least the popping mechanical part of it. Keep it clean with a cloth but not anything wet!

I did this some years ago, purely for servicing reasons, whilst cleaning and oiling hinges, etc  and then the pop mechanism promptly failed! When I explained the fault to my local dealer, he said the mechanisms are quite sensitive and temperamental. The issue I had, was that once you pop the boot, it kept on pop-pop-popping, for many seconds, before opening, like a machine gun firing off. I had to replace the unit at around £28. Never lubed it again, never had an issue again. 

 

Fortunately I've not done what you describe, I've removed the locking mechanism and the electronc switch (the bit you physically press to raise the tailgate), tested the wiring for continuity (there was a lot to test). The auto electrician more or less repeated everything I had done . I had thought of making up some sort of mechanical arrangement, but realisticaly not practical.

[Oilburner]

20 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

if you sell every car that has a fault, you will go through a few over time !!!

 

It is more likely to be the micro switch on  the lock thats "not" telling the car the tailgate is shut, so it wont lock.

 

Do you have a MFD on the dash ? does it show the boot open ?

 

It's a long shot, but give the lock assy a good spray with contact cleaner.

 

 

 

I've owned Land Rovers for 40 odd years, so belive me I'm quite adept at fixing things. No Land Rover has ever beaten me........... yet 😁

 

By microswitch, I assume the switch you physically press on the tailgate that sends power to the release mechanism?

 

Nothing showing on the dash to indicate tailgate is open, even when I physically pop it open.

 

The locking assembly worked absolutely fine when I removed it and tested it.

Edited 13 May, 2019 by Oilburner

[UrbanPanzer]

5 hours ago, mrgf said:

...I would actually avoid cleaning/lubing the lock assembly, or at least the popping mechanical part of it. Keep it clean with a cloth but not anything wet!

I did this some years ago, purely for servicing reasons, whilst cleaning and oiling hinges, etc  and then the pop mechanism promptly failed! When I explained the fault to my local dealer, he said the mechanisms are quite sensitive and temperamental. The issue I had, was that once you pop the boot, it kept on pop-pop-popping, for many seconds, before opening, like a machine gun firing off. I had to replace the unit at around £28. Never lubed it again, never had an issue again. 

 

 

I never said anything about lubing the lock, contact cleaner evaporates and leaves no residue, hence its used on electrical circuits.

[UrbanPanzer]

42 minutes ago, Oilburner said:

 

I've owned Land Rovers for 40 odd years, so belive me I'm quite adept at fixing things. No Land Rover has ever beaten me........... yet 😁

 

By microswitch, I assume the switch you physically press on the tailgate that sends power to the release mechanism?

 

Nothing showing on the dash to indicate tailgate is open, even when I physically pop it open.

 

The locking assembly worked absolutely fine when I removed it and tested it.

 

Land Rovers, yes been there got one, know all about it as well

 

There is "switches" inside the lock assy, Im not sure if you can access them or not.......however, if you say the lock works "out the car" then it has to be a wiring fault within the car.

 

You may get continuity, but it won't take much of a wire to give that reading, where as if a wire is broken down to only a few strands somewhere, it won't operate the lock.

 

Maybe check the wiring where the loom goes from the tailgate to the body throught the rubber boot  / grommet.

 

Also, you need to see if +12v is present at the motor plug when the switch is pressed, infact, there should be the same at the switch, as well......if not, then that points you to where the issue is.

 

 

[UrbanPanzer]

heres the wiring diagram..

[mrgf]

15 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

 

 

I never said anything about lubing the lock, contact cleaner evaporates and leaves no residue, hence its used on electrical circuits.

Yeah, I realised that but sometimes, people go over and above what was recommended etc. I just wanted to highlight the potential risk of either cleaning or lubing the pop mech as I myself had issues and was advised to keep well clear, apart from a wipe. Additionally, when you say contact cleaner, another person might just think, WD40 or similar, which will leave residue. Great for some jobs, complete pants for others. Proper contact cleaner, as you rightly state, leaves nothing behind, once it has cleaned the muck away. 

[Oilburner]

In view of the grief and considerable stress this issue has put my wife and myself through, I'm pleased to say the car has now been disposed of in a manner in which it rightly deserved. It's a financial loss we can ill afford but at least a great cloud has been lifted. It went through the crusher at 11:25 on Wednesday 15th May. If it were human I would wish it to rot in hell, instead it could be worse and be reincarnated as yet another ***** skoda!!!

Edited 16 May, 2019 by Oilburner

[Breezy_Pete]

That's an expensive, but very emphatic fix. 

[Mickmartin]

I'm baffled, You scrapped a car (you don't really need and could ill afford) because the boot lock is faulty?

 

I've has several VAG cars over the years with boot lock problems, Usually its just a case of stripping the boot panel off and looking to see what's not working ie the actuator, then the lock mech, Then move onto electrics.

 

All failing and albeit a small job why didn't you just rig up a manual release lever or also know as a good old bit of rope, disconnect the touch/boot open mech and the boot will lock every time only allowing you to manually open it.

 

Michael

[mrgf]

You could have quite easily have replaced the whole tailgate for a few hundred quid! This would have had most of the wiring intact, too. Or sold it on with the problem highlighted. You would still have got more then the scrapping fee. I think perhaps, you are pulling our ploSKODAer with that comment!

Unless the car was a real junker, it must have been worth a few thousand quid. Crushed, you'd be lucky to get a hundred or a couple of hundred, salvage!

[Oilburner]

Just to reiterate, I had gone as far as I could regarding the electrics. I had the services of an auto electrician that put in many hours, I was just pouring money into a hole. As a pensioner on a state pension the funds eventually dried up. As 'mrgf says "You could have quite easily have replaced the whole tailgate for a few hundred quid!",  get real, how much do you think a state pension is! (In my case it's £125/week). I put the car up for sale, nobody would buy it with a stuck tailgate as indeed an Estate car is something you buy if you have animals or move stuff about. I then put it up for spares. The seats went and some of the interior bits and pieces, I had hoped the engine would sell but there was no interest. Bit of a sad tale as the car was low mileage, went well and tidy bodywise, but ultimately it's only worth what anyone will pay for it. I appreciate all the help that's been freely offered here, wish I had looked here before buying the car. Thanks guys, Oliver.
 

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Edited 17 May, 2019 by Oilburner

[jamie6210]

5 minutes ago, Oilburner said:

As a pensioner on a state pension the funds eventually dried up. As 'mrgf says "You could have quite easily have replaced the whole tailgate for a few hundred quid!",  get real, how much do you think a state pension is! (In my case it's £125/week). 
 

 

Not to mock you or anything, but couldn't you have got a loan from a friend / family member to cover the cost of a working tailgate and then sell the car in a working condition? Then repay the person you got the loan from (with interest or a few beers) and lose less money on the car? Can't change whats happened, just sad to hear a good car gone has gone to waste.

[mrgf]

Oliver, I did not mean to suggest you had a few hundred quid, moreover, that a tailgate could easily have been found for that sort of money. The cost of the auto electrician could easily have outweighed that, depending on their hourly rates and time spent. Sorry if you think I meant you could easily have afforded that sum. 

Nice to see you did get a few quid on spares and yes, I agree you would have though there to be an interest in the engine, either at a car recycle centre or whatever as crushing brings things down to base metal weight and most things are worth more then that. (I have a motorcycle standing on my doorstep. I could sell it every day of the week for what people would think it is worth but the logbook and frame alone are worth around £500, the engine similar and no-one wants to pay a thousand for the whole thing)!

 

It's a shame you perhaps may not have thought of offering it for sale here. There are usually a few enthusiasts who most likely would have taken it off your hands, even if for only what you received, and have the issue sorted. (You can have a short membership and sell things here).

 

Thats life, I guess. Best wishes for the future and sorry the Skud didn't work out for you!