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what to check for brake fluid leak?

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24 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

do you mean this spring that is in blue circle?

No.

 

The spring that is at the bottom and is horizontal just above the black plastic part you remove.

Once the black plastic part is out you can maneuver the bottom ends closer together to refit the spring.

This is after you have slotted the top two shoe ends in place against the new wheel cylinders.

 

Find some Youtube clips to look at.

Have you got some local help you can call in?

Do you have a Haynes manual to help?

A lot needs to be correct for the brakes to work at the end of this.

 

Thanks AG Falco

 

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  • If it has drum rear brakes then check to see if the inside of the rear wheels are wet with brake fluid. It will only leak when you apply the brakes.   Thanks AG Falco

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    The plastic 'glide pieces' I pointed out many posts ago, with a parts diagram/list, are the only points that the inner the edges of the shoes contact. Their whole purpose is to provide a lower-frictio

  • Springs not normally required.   If you are doing one brake wheel cylinder then do both. They are as old as each other and if one is leaking then the other will be not far behind.

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17 minutes ago, AGFalco said:

No.

 

The spring that is at the bottom and is horizontal just above the black plastic part you remove.

Once the black plastic part is out you can maneuver the bottom ends closer together to refit the spring.

This is after you have slotted the top two shoe ends in place against the new wheel cylinders.

 

Find some Youtube clips to look at.

Have you got some local help you can call in?

Do you have a Haynes manual to help?

A lot needs to be correct for the brakes to work at the end of this.

 

Thanks AG Falco

 

thank you, by  doing that then i can open it up like a garden shear.

 

i will be fine on my own, just 1 question.

did you say to put grease between the backplate and the new shoes?

1 minute ago, froggy8 said:

thank you, by  doing that then i can open it up like a garden shear.

Yes, but don't pull to far apart and have all the top fall apart that you have paid to be assembled.

 

3 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

did you say to put grease between the backplate and the new shoes?

Yes, where they touch/rub the back plate.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks AG Falco

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1 hour ago, AGFalco said:

Yes, but don't pull to far apart and have all the top fall apart that you have paid to be assembled.

 

Yes, where they touch/rub the back plate.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks AG Falco

thank you again, much appreciated!

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The plastic 'glide pieces' I pointed out many posts ago, with a parts diagram/list, are the only points that the inner the edges of the shoes contact. Their whole purpose is to provide a lower-friction interface than there would be if the shoes sat directly against the steel backplate.

Ideally, replace these parts (£7 buys you a set of 12 delivered, according to Google), grease them, and the metal backing plates of the shoes around the areas that might ever contact them.  Don't use much grease, you really don't want it ending up on the friction surfaces of the shoes.

 

From your questions, I have doubts that this job is within your capabilities, unless you can get some help from someone with more experience, to be brutally honest.

 

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On 14/05/2019 at 22:21, Wino said:

The plastic 'glide pieces' I pointed out many posts ago, with a parts diagram/list, are the only points that the inner the edges of the shoes contact. Their whole purpose is to provide a lower-friction interface than there would be if the shoes sat directly against the steel backplate.

Ideally, replace these parts (£7 buys you a set of 12 delivered, according to Google), grease them, and the metal backing plates of the shoes around the areas that might ever contact them.  Don't use much grease, you really don't want it ending up on the friction surfaces of the shoes.

 

From your questions, I have doubts that this job is within your capabilities, unless you can get some help from someone with more experience, to be brutally honest.

 

i just liking asking questions to be totally sure, i am confident i can do this job.

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heres the update guys

 

got the drum brakes, brake cleaner and the hose clamp. just need to wait for the glide piece and grease then i can start on the job, hopefully will turn up tomorrow :)

 

 

IMG-3619.jpg

IMG-3620.jpg

IMG-3621.jpg

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finally done it, only took 2 days :D 

foot brakes sensitive and handbrakes is quite tight. all in all, very good work :) 

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Well done. 😊

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14 minutes ago, Wino said:

Well done. 😊

thank you :) 

On 19/05/2019 at 18:07, froggy8 said:

finally done it, only took 2 days :D

You mean 2 hours. :D

 

Well done.

You might need to adjust the handbrake after they have settled.

 

Thanks AG Falco

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3 minutes ago, AGFalco said:

You mean 2 hours. :D

 

Well done.

You might need to adjust the handbrake after they have settled.

 

Thanks AG Falco

the handbrakes are quite tight, alot better than it was.

there is a slight squeak on the right rear one though. will have to look at that this weekend. 

1 minute ago, froggy8 said:

there is a slight squeak on the right rear one though. will have to look at that this weekend. 

 

Leave that until they settle/bed in. The noise might go by then.

 

Thanks AG Falco

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1 minute ago, AGFalco said:

 

Leave that until they settle/bed in. The noise might go by then.

 

Thanks AG Falco

ok will leave it for now.

next job is changing the clutch :D 

Just now, froggy8 said:

next job is changing the clutch :D 

 

Might need more than 2 Hours for that job.

 

Thanks AG Falco

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Nah, 20 mins to change a clutch, tops.*

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*If someone else removes and refits the gearbox for you...

Are you offering to do the clutch or the gearbox then?

 

I might have one to do sometime. 🙄

 

Thanks AG Falco

...Unbelievably, Mr Auto are selling clutch kits from as little as £35.10! This is for a 1.4 diesel so may not suit all but hey!

 

The brand is Bolk... I have little inside in to their quality but Mr Auto seem to stock many of their components so they must trust them!

 

Obviously fitment is an issue but the closest thing to that in price for a decent, known brand will be around the hundred mark.

 

I think I would be inclined to fit one if I was planning on selling the car, for sure. I would look around a bit, for other users to get feedback of the quality, if I was keeping the car and thinking of fitting one.

 

The thing is, unless you know what a clutch fitter has fitted, you could still be buying such a low cost part, despite being charged for a higher value one!

 

Looking at Froggy8's photo's, he/she is happy to fit Bolk parts and if you fit their stoppers, well then, anything goes!

Edited by mrgf

  • 5 years later...
On 12/05/2019 at 20:00, Breezy_Pete said:

I'd draw your attention to item 3 'glide piece' which is what the edges of the brake shoes 'glide' on rather than the steel of the backplate.

I think you meant item 8 @Breezy_Pete

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4 hours ago, phs12 said:

I think you meant item 8 @Breezy_Pete

Yes, thanks. Now edited to 8.

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