2013 Yeti My heater set to cold both dials turned to left and screen shows 'low'. Fine for 5 mins then suddenly a burst of roasting air shootsout for about 30 seconds to a minute. Nothing seems to make a difference. Any ideas anyone ?

Welcome, if you have climate control it will blow both hot and cold air in order to maintain temperature. Never noticed getting hot air when set to cold on mine, I must admit.

Some skodas were notorious for the vent flap motor failing which adjusts the airflow into the car.

This car is old enough for this to be a possible fault. My wifes fabia suffered from this with random too hot or cold.

On 18/06/2019 at 20:12, towtug said:

2013 Yeti My heater set to cold both dials turned to left and screen shows 'low'. Fine for 5 mins then suddenly a burst of roasting air shootsout for about 30 seconds to a minute. Nothing seems to make a difference. Any ideas anyone ?

well I am new to yeti (buy one last saturday) but youre description confuses me..you actualy have youre AC work fine for 5 minutes then AC not work and you have only hot air ?  first check if ac work normaly..so run the car for that 5 minutes  when you feel hot air blowing OPEN engine hood search for two Aluminum AC pipes one about 12-15 mm diameter is high presure that one will be hot..another one is about 20-25 mm in diameter its low presure pipe it must be COLD..temperaure is related to presure ..so IF they are same temperature then conclusion is AC dont work at all..for dont work there is almost milion reason..but first check this what I describe..IF you have VAG diagnostic(you must have it) you can see all data what you need for trouble pinpoint..even without AC service station only with vag you will be able to diagnose/repair you AC system.

I run my own busines in carelectronic since 1994 so Iam prety familiar with all that crap.

WELL - MORE !! .... Now I find it is only the driver side that gets hot air whe,n set on cold. The passenger side stays cold. So both set To cold. Either. On air or AC  Lovely and cool suddenly warm air jets out of face vents or footwell. If I am very quick at spinning the driver dial to cold I can sometimes stop it but not very often. Sounds to me like something happening from the temperature control? Overheating? I ha ve no idea and  cant find out much about it ?   Any help anyone?

Have you pressed Dual Control by mistake? It is quite easy to so do when changing gear if manual and one is clumsy like me!

No it happens on Dual and ordinary. If I turn the driver side down as soon as I feel it warm it goes back to cold. Its weird as if some kind of setting is slipping back I know its not an old fashioned pot. I have stripped the controls right down and cleaned them slightly better. Ie stays cold longer !  Hate inexplainable faults !

well mr.towtug..its quite simply..our cars have small motors for temperature flaps..that motors are controled by climatic unit with dials.based on youre description there is only two scenario..actuator for temperature flap doors is broken OR climatic unit have some fals reading..now its time for diagnostic(vagcom is youre friend)..with diagnostic you will be able to read error codes from climatic unit..they are saved there waiting for you to read them..also you will be able to send order to motor to move in position what you like..also you will be able to see what is actual position of this motor and what is youre desired position...you remember old car where regulator for temperature was with bowden cale conected to temperature blend door..its same principle only now is more complicated..sometime overenginered..this kind of yob is my primary in workshop,and when you understand how it work will be easy to fix even looks realy overcomplicated..actualy is not..you car also have temperature sensor for cabin temp ..sometime fail..but based on youre description it can only be two reason..broken actuator(small motor with position sensor) or broken climatronic unit..youre AC system work well based on youre description..this fault is easy to diagnose so IF you dont want spend 20$ on vagcable,search for some electrician in neigbhourd with any car diagnostic and check it...IF there is no error codes in climatic unit then you need read data like : motor position,temperature on left,temperature on right outlet,...easy task..IF you think that I can help you more please..iam here

you can also buy used one climatic unit yust to eliminate one reason....something like this one?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-YETI-5L-2014-AIR-CON-HEATER-CONTROL-PANEL-3T0907044CD/293112341160?hash=item443edb62a8:g:ZV0AAOSwCUFc96VD

that will be easy to replace..siting from drivers seat....  and other suspect part will be this one litle buger;

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5719G-Skoda-Yeti-2015-RHD-Heater-Flap-Motor-5Q0907511L/273867716323?hash=item3fc3c9b6e3:g:4vcAAOSwI6lc7oGz

 

also easy to replace ..but easy depends on YOURE skills with small plastic craps..its not easy to find it,but you can remove all plastic trims from center console..start engine and rotate dial for youre side temperature watch on heater box to see what actuator try to rotate..BE SURE wich one is temperature flaps

Thank you so much.

I have had the dash to pieces so easy to replace the controls. If you think this is a possibility. Maybe I should buy this reader thing. Then at leadt I can see what is wrong.

Thanks again

Jay

It may not be much help, but whenever my car's temperature has changed, I believe I have accidentally 'caught' the rotary control knob, which is very easy to do. From what you have said it does not look like a flap motor problem as you are able to revert to cool air by turning the temperature control down. It looks as if the system believes it has been asked to increase the temperature. You say you can access the controls easily - is it possible to swap the driver and passenger controls over to eliminate the possibility of the driver's side one being faulty? I concur with the suggestion of checking the error codes though. Good luck. Regards, Trevor M.

towtug...buying that vag cable will be youre best investment in life IF you like to work on youre car..without it all is gueswork,that gueswork can be expensive,changing parts just because you THINK is broken on modern cars is nonsense..you dont need any fancy original blablabla cable..simple VAGCOM reader will be big helper...OBD readers can see only powertrain,on our cars vagcom is close to dealer tool..

now about heater

you set the temperature and blower and flaps do its yob to execute youre order.IF you set on 22 climatronic module measure temperature in cabin,in air outlets and adjust its work to fullfill youre order..after few minutes youre desired temperature is close to cabin temp. and climatronic slow the blower and readjust temperature flaps..so basicaly you dont need to touch temperature dial but climatronic will every few second readjust flaps acording to youre setting cabin temp...etc..it is complicated system but build well..only weak spot are flaps motor with gears/sensors on them.I dont even remember any climatronic faults on this type of cars..but motors for flaps fail...another weak spot is evaporator temperature sensor(NOT youre case) and thats it..

all in all yetis are well built someting like golf 6 (at least myne from 2012y)

This whole thing has me stumped. The passenger side is freezing at full blast and mine set on Dual is the same then maybe 1 or 2 minutes suddenly driver side is roasting hot. If you are very quick and turn down driver control it will go back for a minute or so. Until again roasting. If you do not catch it quick no amount of turning will bring it cold. The fan is all the while blowing at top speed. I cannot do reset as There is no econ switch on mine.

You are very helpful and I thank you all. So I need a VAGCOM ?  Not a OBD 2 reader?

Thank you.

Jay

You need VCDS, or at least someone with it. Check all the live data from flaps and sensors to see if anything is out of place. 

22 hours ago, towtug said:

This whole thing has me stumped. The passenger side is freezing at full blast and mine set on Dual is the same then maybe 1 or 2 minutes suddenly driver side is roasting hot. If you are very quick and turn down driver control it will go back for a minute or so. Until again roasting. If you do not catch it quick no amount of turning will bring it cold. The fan is all the while blowing at top speed. I cannot do reset as There is no econ switch on mine.

You are very helpful and I thank you all. So I need a VAGCOM ?  Not a OBD 2 reader?

Thank you.

Jay

blower is ONE for both sides..but flatps and actuators are divided..one for driver one for pasenger..they dont comunicate between..climatornic comand with them acordingly to youre wish and status of sensors..obd reader cANT help on comfort part of wehicle..only on powertrain..but look at fleebay.uk  cheap solutions

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YUST TO CLARIFIED..only ROSSTECH sells original..all others are chinese copy..

Edited 21 July, 20196 yr by john999boy
Discussion or links regarding fake VCDS cables is not allowed on the forum.

22 minutes ago, Stjepan said:

only ROSSTECH sells original..

 

There are plenty of official distributors: https://www.ross-tech.com/distributors.php

 

22 minutes ago, Stjepan said:

all others are chinese copy..

 

Depends if any support is expected to understand how to use and interpret the data from VCDS. Rosstech certainly won't help people with cloned/pirated cable...

 

While I appreciate many people won't want to spend ~£225 on a 3-VIN HEX-V2, there are plenty of forum members with genuine versions of VCDS that are normally happy to help. Seems a better option than running potentially dodgy software and questionable hardware...

Edited 21 July, 20196 yr by john999boy
Matching my edited post above.

Sory guys I didnt know that ___ Discussion or links regarding fake VCDS cables is not allowed on the forum.

 

my mistake ..didnt read forum rules

 

langers2k-I belive you actualy understand what I wana say that only rosstech sell original..I meant only rosstech is original..

you know I buy my first tool from Uwe ross somewhere 1995-7..that guy was so polite that he even help me build some interfaces in these years..what a good years only K line for comunicatio..simple cars ...

 

anyway mr Towtug search maybe somebody in neighbourd have holy grale caled original cable and can help you..Iam to far away to help

SOLVED

Well new controller secured fleabay.

At present all working correct.

Thank you for so many who spent time helping me. You all deserve a mug o tea. (The greatest accolade up here in the North !)

thats good news,

glad you sorted out finaly..did you open old controler ?

its probably bad solder or dust on optical encoder(dials) but who care when ebay can solve it for cheap