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2013 Octavia with 51k


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Just about to pay for a 2013 Octavia 2.0 TDI with 51k miles. Should the cambelt have been done as part of the full Skoda history? I have not seen the history yet but don't want a big bill right after purchase. 

Cheers

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I recently bought my mine with the same milage, and asked them to change cambelt & water pump as part of the deal,they are an independent dealer,to which they agreed to my surprise, I got a further £300 off as well!

Show interest, and if they won't budge, walk away. Then come back try again, with the same offer, you might get lucky, I did?

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Just budget the car with £500 Skoda cambelt change. It's not done as standard service, you'd have to pay extra for this.

 

If it's DSG, the oil also needs changing every 40k miles.

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Total price is £9495, I thought the approved Skoda thing meant it should have up to date service history.

It's all paid for now, dealer wouldn't budge on the price but says the cambelt was done in 2017 (possible waterpump failure?) Until I see the history I won't know, not yet had access to it. It's in for an MOT today I pointed out it had totally bald front tyres on the inner edges, the dealer says if it fails they will change them. Starting to wonder if the approved means anything at all...

If the spec wasn't so high I think I would have walked long ago. It's been a struggle from the start dealing with them.

Edited by Nikonite
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7 minutes ago, Nikonite said:

Total price is £9495, I thought the approved Skoda thing meant it should have up to date service history.

It's all paid for now, dealer wouldn't budge on the price but says the cambelt was done in 2017 (possible waterpump failure?) Until I see the history I won't know, not yet had access to it. It's in for an MOT today I pointed out it had totally bald front tyres on the inner edges, the dealer says if it fails they will change them. Starting to wonder if the approved means anything at all...

If the spec wasn't so high I think I would have walked long ago. It's been a struggle from the start dealing with them.

 

OK cheers, hope it all works out for you.

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3 hours ago, vRSWitter said:

How much is it, I only ask because I have a 2.0 TDI with roughly 53k on the clock and want to know how much it's worth. 😉

 

The selling ticket price is no indication of what a car is worth, especially as you haven't seen it / know what condition it's in.

 

Why not enter your details in to Webuyanycar then WeWantAnyCar and finally  https://www.arnoldclark.com/sell.  That'll give you the most accurate indication of what your car is worth.

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17 minutes ago, Scot5 said:

 

The selling ticket price is no indication of what a car is worth, especially as you haven't seen it / know what condition it's in.

 

Why not enter your details in to Webuyanycar then WeWantAnyCar and finally  https://www.arnoldclark.com/sell.  That'll give you the most accurate indication of what your car is worth.

 

Wow ... my cars only worth £6262 according to Arnold Clark. Holy Moly that's almost 1/2 of what I paid 1 year ago.

And 3K less than what Nikonite just paid for his.

Edited by vRSWitter
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1 hour ago, vRSWitter said:

 

Wow ... my cars only worth £6262 according to Arnold Clark. Holy Moly that's almost 1/2 of what I paid 1 year ago.

And 3K less than what Nikonite just paid for his.

Out of interest, when I was wondering what one of these companys would offer for my car, I put it into the Webuyanycar web site. After the offer they gave me of £3.500, I would not trust these sort of companys to give you a fair price. I traded it in in the end only around 3 months ago to a Skoda garage, got £4.500 for it. They sold it to an independant dealer, as it had too many miles on it for them to stick it on their forecourt. The independent dealer had it up on ebay for £5.995. It sold soon after. This was a 2011 Octavia VRS TSI in great condition, full service history with 103k miles. So the moral of the story is, I would get less from Webuyanycar than trading it in. If I wanted the trouble of selling it myself, which I usually do, I could have got even more. I think your car is worth a lot more than £6262 by the sound of it mate. Compare like for like via Autotrader to see what the market is selling them for.

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2 hours ago, vRSWitter said:

 

Wow ... my cars only worth £6262 according to Arnold Clark. Holy Moly that's almost 1/2 of what I paid 1 year ago.

And 3K less than what Nikonite just paid for his.

The only MK3 Octavias I saw for that money had had high miles, were private sales and either shabby or cat rated accident damaged.

I looked at loads before buying.

Them price guides are nonsense.

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What's with the inflated prices? I fully expect my 2013 '63 reg Octavia 2.0 TDI DSG Elegance ( Metallic paint; 18inch Golus alloys; Bi-Xenon headlights; Adaptive Cruise Control; Canton speakers; Heated seats; in another words, almost fully loaded ) 85k miles to cost below £7000 these days.

 

I bought my car for £8800 early 2017, had 70k on the clock. Cambelt and DSG oil were due in 2018, so I budgeted accordingly. But other than that, the car was in very good condition.

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12 hours ago, Nikonite said:

The only MK3 Octavias I saw for that money had had high miles, were private sales and either shabby or cat rated accident damaged.

I looked at loads before buying.

Them price guides are nonsense.

 

No, they are not nonsense. That's the trade price - that's what the trade is willing to pay for them.

 

When you say the cars you saw had haigh mileages...    You don't seem to understand.  The cars you saw were being sold - that's the SELLING price. The person above wanted to know how much his car is worth - i.e. that's the TRADE price.  If there were no difference in prices then the garages wouldn't make any money.

 

 

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Ok so if garages suddenly decide that  they will only  pay 42p for them then all of a sudden that's what they are worth?

Garages are not the only buyers of cars, a car is worth what someone us willing to pay like anything else.

 

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15 hours ago, vRSWitter said:

 

Wow ... my cars only worth £6262 according to Arnold Clark. Holy Moly that's almost 1/2 of what I paid 1 year ago.

And 3K less than what Nikonite just paid for his.

 

It'll be worth that only if you've described it's condition accurately, if not then it'll be worth less. Assuming your car is in much the same condition as you bought it then I'm afraid it looks like you paid too much for it.

 

A good way to judge how much you should pay for a used car -  find the car you want, do exactly what you've done and get a trade price, then add a few thousand ( because that's usually the min. a dealer would accept after adding warranties, guarantees, overhead, profit etc ).  It'll surprise you just how much some dealers make out of cars.

 

When selling privately, you want to get somewhere in between.  So if the trade price is £6000 and you see the same car as yours selling for £9000 at a dealership, then £7000-£7500 is normally the price it'll sell for privately.

 

Just one other thing - those prices you see a car advertised for - who's to say that's what it sells for?  We all try asking for a discount.

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13 minutes ago, Nikonite said:

Ok so if garages suddenly decide that  they will only  pay 42p for them then all of a sudden that's what they are worth?

Garages are not the only buyers of cars, a car is worth what someone us willing to pay like anything else.

 

 

No, it's what the trade is willing to pay for them.  The above website sites are not garages, they are autctions. ( clark is slightly different but works on same principal. If they can sell your car thru their outlet it saves them going to auction therefore theytend to give slightly better prices - not always - that WeBuyAnyCar ). If the auction price is 42p then yes that's exactly what the car is worth.  If you're smart, you'd go along to the auction and offer 50p rather than go to the dealer and pay £7000.

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14 minutes ago, Scot5 said:

 

It'll be worth that only if you've described it's condition accurately, if not then it'll be worth less. Assuming your car is in much the same condition as you bought it then I'm afraid it looks like you paid too much for it.

 

A good way to judge how much you should pay for a used car -  find the car you want, do exactly what you've done and get a trade price, then add a few thousand ( because that's usually the min. a dealer would accept after adding warranties, guarantees, overhead, profit etc ).  It'll surprise you just how much some dealers make out of cars.

 

When selling privately, you want to get somewhere in between.  So if the trade price is £6000 and you see the same car as yours selling for £9000 at a dealership, then £7000-£7500 is normally the price it'll sell for privately.

 

Just one other thing - those prices you see a car advertised for - who's to say that's what it sells for?  We all try asking for a discount.

 

Just looked it up and I paid £10,950 in May 2018 for 2013 2.0TDI elegance with alcantara, cruise, auto lights and wipers, xenons, sat Nav, 18" Golus - 28,000 on the clock. So only a grand more than Nikonite for fewer miles, so maybe not too bad, given it was also a year ago.

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Mine has a great spec or would not have paid near 10k for a 2013 tbh.

It has Columbus, kessy, dual xenon, adaptive cruise,  lane assist, park assist, half leather, folding mirrors with puddle lights, auto lights / wipers, dual zone climate. Heated seats and 50k miles.

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Trade prices are always going to be rock bottom when you are selling to them or part exchanging.  I asked a couple of dealers what they do with all their px cars that were not quite what they wanted on the forecourt.  He explained that they go to auction.  

 

When selling, I always do so privately including e-bay.  It takes time but you can at least try and get a decent price.  Yes - I realise a lot of people will want to stick to one car, so selling privately can mean they are car less for a while.  As mentioned above, take your time and hang in for the best deal you can get,  Haggling takes a while.

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As a guide for price......  I paid £9K for my Dec 2014 registered 2.0TD Elegance estate with 76K miles on it in Feb 2018.  Extras include park pilot and park assist.  There were a few minor bodywork defects, most of which I removed.

 

Incidentally the water pump failed at around 83500 miles.  Ironically it was just before Christmas and I had already planned to get it done along with the timing belt at service time (around now) as I never leave these things to the maximum 

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18 hours ago, Nikonite said:

Total price is £9495, I thought the approved Skoda thing meant it should have up to date service history.

It's all paid for now, dealer wouldn't budge on the price but says the cambelt was done in 2017 (possible waterpump failure?) Until I see the history I won't know, not yet had access to it. It's in for an MOT today I pointed out it had totally bald front tyres on the inner edges, the dealer says if it fails they will change them. Starting to wonder if the approved means anything at all...

If the spec wasn't so high I think I would have walked long ago. It's been a struggle from the start dealing with them.

 

There was a bad batch of water pumps a few years ago, to access the water pump the cambelt needs to be removed, you should never refit a removed cambelt, so chances are it was replaced when the water pump was replaced under warranty.

 

Saying that you should ask for the printed invoice to document the date and mileage it was replaced. If the dealer was half decent they'd have made this available when you viewed the car, knowing full well that had it not been replaced at the same time as the water pump, then it would be overdue.

 

As for the tyres, Skoda UK (as do most other manufacturers) set the minimum tread depth for the car to qualify as 'approved used' to be at 3mm or more. I checked with Skoda UK for you...

 

539506732_SkodaApprovedUsedTyreTreadDepth.thumb.png.59e980747bd12fb09f21ca1f503b4263.png

 

The dealer is wrong. The minimum tread depth for an MOT fail is 1.6mm, but they will get an advisory if they're close, but legal. Has the dealer said it has to pass the MOT before they'll change them, or will they change them if they're listed as an advisory?

 

When you say they're bald, have you been able to measure the tread depth yourself? Tyre tread depths will be part of the approved used checks and should be provided to you in a document, as part of the approved used scheme...

 

image.png.86bc8e7e8ceb0aa819707f38ac792fa0.png 

 

Make sure they put branded tyres on, preferably that match the rears, not cheap Chinese ditch finders.

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The tyres on the inside are completely smooth, there is no tread in that section at all. I have asked that they sort out the geometry too as their is obviously a problem. Looking at the old MOT history online it has failed quite a few times on tyres and front dampers.

The salesman is a typical slippery geezer and dismisses everything with "yeah, don't worry if it fails the MOT we will sort it out!"

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