HI i am new here,

 

I have Octavia 2008 BLS with  G28 crankshaft sensor fault, i give new sensor but still have error....Where is problem? Some one have diagram for 3pins from sensor to ECU??? Thanks for help

Genuine sensor? 

 

Did it come out easily?

Not easily...but i put new and still erroror... have you diagram??? or solution for this?

A wiring diagram can be downloaded here

erWin

 

And yes I could work out a solution with more information. The exact fault code would be useful.

https://imgur.com/a/5a61e1p

 

EDC16u34

 

zadny signal in photo mean nothing or no signal

 

can you make me screen shot of diagram..from G28 to ECU or say me what pins from G28 1,2,3 to ECU?

 

or any help? or solution?

Edited 26 July, 20196 yr by sjt73560

G28 Pin-1 -> ECU Pin ???????

G28 Pin-2 -> ECU Pin ???????

G28 Pin-3 -> ECU  Pin ???????

Pretty sure that’s not an electrical fault for no signal. 

 

Have you had had any other work done recently?

Do you think "" wheel"" is bad or what? And why is not electrical problem?

Only for test can you send me pinout from G28 to ECU?

A no signal fault generally means the circuit is ok but the sensor isn’t reading anything. 

 

So either the old sensor was faulty but the new one is a faulty part or isn’t installed correctly. Or the pick up wheel in the rear main oil seal has failed. 

Ok i go look... Please wiring to sensor from ecu

Just now, sjt73560 said:

Please wiring to sensor from ecu

 

I posted the link above 

G28 pin 1 (Black/Red wire) ECU pin 42

G28 pin 2 (Lilac wire) ECU pin 58

G28 pin 3 (Brown/Blue wire) ECU pin 57

1 hour ago, nige8021 said:

G28 pin 1 (Black/Red wire) ECU pin 42

G28 pin 2 (Lilac wire) ECU pin 58

G28 pin 3 (Brown/Blue wire) ECU pin 57

 

 

Right or Left?

5 hours ago, nige8021 said:

G28 pin 1 (Black/Red wire) ECU pin 42

G28 pin 2 (Lilac wire) ECU pin 58

G28 pin 3 (Brown/Blue wire) ECU pin 57

Solution.Bad cables to sensor.

1 hour ago, sjt73560 said:

Solution.Bad cables to sensor.

 

Could you be a little more specific? It may help owners in the future with the same issue. 

Connector "C" for referance

Having a similar nightmare. P0322 input circuit fault. New sensor and overlay wiring done but still sometimes jerking, hesitating when cold. Can't get fault code to return though since overlay wiring fitted. Anyone had excessive crank end float or heard of issue in these?

Crank, no start, P0322 No Signal - Cause: Broken wire from sensor to ECU

 

The following may be useful to other Octavia owners. Here are the details of my problem and what I found:

 

Car: Octavia 2.0 TDi 2005 DSG (BKD engine).

Symptom: Cranks but doesn't start.

DTC: Code reader shows P0322 crankshaft speed sensor: no signal.

 

Changing the speed sensor on the DSG is not as easy as the manual gearbox version so I did some research first. I discovered that it was not uncommon for there to be wire breaks between the ECU and the sensor, so I decided to investigate this first.

Just accessing the plug on the sensor is not easy and the ECU isn't much better. The ECU is held in place with an anti-tamper cover and there are a number of videos online showing how best to remove the dome headed screws using a Dremel. You may not even need to remove the ECU itself, you only need to remove the smaller of the 2 connectors at the front. This can be done by sliding the locking lever out so that the plug can be removed. The diagram that I have attached shows the connections and the wire colours. The diagram provided by nige8021 above shows the pin connections on the ECU plug. Look at the connector labelled 'C'. The back cover on the ECU plug can be slid off revealing the wire colours. Use a multimeter to check for continuity to the sensor plug. On mine, I had a 2 Mohm resistance on the lilac signal wire. Pulling on the loom just in front of the battery cause the resistance to change and one occasion I actually managed to get it to read 0 ohms.

 

Rather than untape the loom and search for the break I just ran a replacement wire from the close to the sensor to close to the ECU. I just stripped back a small amount of the insulation and soldered the end of the replacement wire in place and taped it up. This fixed the fault and the engine started as normal.

 

I see that this fault affects many of the VW/Audi/Skoda TDi engines of this era. I guess that age, temperature cycling and tension in the loom causes the break.

Crank, no start, P0322 No Signal - Cause: Broken wire from sensor to ECU

 

The following may be useful to other Octavia owners. Here are the details of my problem and what I found:

 

Car: Octavia 2.0 TDi 2005 DSG (BKD engine).

Symptom: Cranks but doesn't start.

DTC: Code reader shows P0322 crankshaft speed sensor: no signal.

 

Changing the speed sensor on the DSG is not as easy as the manual gearbox version so I did some research first. I discovered that it was not uncommon for there to be wire breaks between the ECU and the sensor, so I decided to investigate this first.

Just accessing the plug on the sensor is not easy and the ECU isn't much better. The ECU is held in place with an anti-tamper cover and there are a number of videos online showing how best to remove the dome headed screws using a Dremel. You may not even need to remove the ECU itself, you only need to remove the smaller of the 2 connectors at the front. This can be done by sliding the locking lever out so that the plug can be removed. The diagram that I have attached shows the connections and the wire colours. I've highlighted the pins of interest on the ECU plug, look at the connector labelled 'B'. The back cover on the ECU plug can be slid off revealing the wire colours. Use a multimeter to check for continuity to the sensor plug. On mine, I had a 2 Mohm resistance on the lilac signal wire. Pulling on the loom just in front of the battery cause the resistance to change and one occasion I actually managed to get it to read 0 ohms.

 

Rather than untape the loom and search for the break I just ran a replacement wire from the close to the sensor to close to the ECU. I just stripped back a small amount of the insulation and soldered the end of the replacement wire in place and taped it up. This fixed the fault and the engine started as normal.

 

I see that this fault affects many of the VW/Audi/Skoda TDi engines of this era. I guess that age, temperature cycling and tension in the loom causes the break.