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passenger side door card removal ( help )


shaunriach

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skoda fabia 2006 1.2 petrol

 

my passenger window has fell off it's runner,so the window glass is stuck in the down position

 

when i press the window switch,im hearing the motor working ok,but the glass won't move,as it's no longer on it's runner

 

 

i am looking for a thread created by @tfboy that was about a speaker replacement guide,in the thread it described how to remove the door card

 

being a 53 year old technophobe,i have tried to search for tfboy original post,but i can't find it...

 

so if anyone could help me,find tfboy thread or any other thread,that will guide me through the passenger door card removal,it would be much appreciated

 

thanks in advance folks

 

 

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Once the door card is off you will need to drill out the ten pop rivets holding the metal ancillaries panel to the door. And because the window is trapped in the door you will need to drill out the four regulator rivets otherwise the panel will not come off.

 

Regulator rivets shown in red circles...

 

979766.jpg

 

 

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On 26/09/2019 at 20:42, TMB said:

No probs at all :)

 

i got all the rivets out (prize pain in the arse ),so i got the metal backing plate off far enough,to push the window glass back into place,then i used self cut wooden pegs to jam the glass up 

 

while waiting on parts ive taped the metal panel back into place,so we can still use the car

 

in taking the metal backing plate off completely,the one thing i see being a problem is the wiring loom,i followed the loom as far as the door hinge,but found no junction that unclipped the loom,i still haven't pulled back the plastic cover,that goes from the door,to the car interior,that the loom sits in at the door hinge,so i'm hoping theres a clip off junction on the car interior side ?

 

of all the windows ive ever done,the fabia set up is by far the most faffing about !

 

that said,it's your post that's got me this far,so thanks again mate  🙂

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You have to disconnect the loom from the lock unit inside the door and also disconnect it from all the items on the metal panel and remove any clips etc. Then you remove the loom from the panel by pushing the grommet inwards through the hole I have marked in the yellow circle in the photo below. Then feed the complete loom through that hole....

 

 

 

imageproxy-php.jpg

 

And no problem :)

Edited by TMB
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This was my loom lying in the bottom of the door (the blue bits were just tape I put over the connectors)...

 

Untitled.png

Edited by TMB
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Getting the connector plug of the door lock unit inside the door can be rather 'challenging'. I found that using a pair of mole grips and a nail with a protruding head worked to pull the tab down on the plug as it's very difficult to get your fingers in....

 

imageproxy-php.jpg

Edited by TMB
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Hi all,

 

So today our steel regulator cable snapped! Cue window stuck in door. I dismantled the door card and removed the window seal, and prized the inner panel off enough that I can push the window up and take it in place. 

 

Question now is what parts do I need? The motor still works when operated just the cables that are knackered. 

 

Any help appreciated!

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I've just bought a "window regulator repair kit" off eBay and watched a YouTube video! Looks dead easy. Remove the carrier, flip it over, change wires around... Let's see how it works out!

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43 minutes ago, Oli3000 said:

I've just bought a "window regulator repair kit" off eBay and watched a YouTube video! Looks dead easy. Remove the carrier, flip it over, change wires around... Let's see how it works out!

 

Haha, it's only easy if you've done one before!

 

YouTube is brilliant at making really difficult things look **** easy.

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1 hour ago, Oli3000 said:

I've just bought a "window regulator repair kit" off eBay and watched a YouTube video! Looks dead easy. Remove the carrier, flip it over, change wires around... Let's see how it works out!

 

TBH it's £30 for a decent quality complete regulator with a new panel. Not really worth messing about with repair kits.

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4 hours ago, Tech1e said:

 

TBH it's £30 for a decent quality complete regulator with a new panel. Not really worth messing about with repair kits.

 

Cheapest I could find was about £80... If it's only £30 I probably would have bitten. Any ideas where from?

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Drivers' side...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-MK1-1999-07-FRONT-RIGHT-DRIVER-ELECTRIC-WINDOW-REGULATOR-WITH-PANEL/161153875276?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&hash=item258584fd4c:g:RyoAAOSwxg9Zbzsv

 

Passenger side...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-6Y-MK1-1999-08-FRONT-LEFT-SIDE-WINDOW-REGULATOR-WITH-PANEL-6Y1837461/131708777344?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&hash=item1eaa747380:g:m2cAAOSwg2xZeGFc

 

When swapping the panel, you need to drill the rivets out of the speaker and swap the speaker to the new panel. I used small nuts and bolts but you can use pop rivets if you have them.

 

Skoda part number for the speaker rivets is N90765701 (4.8x15mm).

 

Panel to door rivets N91078801 (6.4x10mm).

 

Edited by TMB
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15 minutes ago, TMB said:

Drivers' side...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-MK1-1999-07-FRONT-RIGHT-DRIVER-ELECTRIC-WINDOW-REGULATOR-WITH-PANEL/161153875276?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&hash=item258584fd4c:g:RyoAAOSwxg9Zbzsv

 

Passenger side...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-6Y-MK1-1999-08-FRONT-LEFT-SIDE-WINDOW-REGULATOR-WITH-PANEL-6Y1837461/131708777344?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&hash=item1eaa747380:g:m2cAAOSwg2xZeGFc

 

When swapping the panel, you need to drill the rivets out of the speaker and swap the speaker to the new panel. I used small nuts and bolts but you can use pop rivets if you have them.

 

Skoda part number for the speaker rivets is N90765701 (4.8x15mm).

 

 

Thanks!

 

I have previously replaced my front door speakers and made custom mounts out of MDF (which are now mouldy obviously, like everything in these bloody Fabias), so that's not a problem at least as they were bolted on already!

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6 hours ago, Oli3000 said:

I've just bought a "window regulator repair kit" off eBay and watched a YouTube video! Looks dead easy. Remove the carrier, flip it over, change wires around... Let's see how it works out!

 

 

Let's see...... The plastic sliders broke twice on mine. So easy enough to fix, or is it <dark undertone to narration>?

 

The two springs need compressing to their fullest extent where the cables meet the winder mech. Some kits include the winder and have a metal brace to hold it all tight until you release it. I've bent coat hanger wire to compress the springs whilst bracing against the "ribs" on the winder mech. Even then, I needed mole grips to pull the cable to assemble into a new slider. I also couldn't do this with the metal window clamp on it.

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When replaced my fabia's broken plastic slider of the driver's side glass, I found that the only way to get the wires into place was to first attached their terminals to the fixing points of the new sliders/motor drum and then passed them to the pulleys. At the last pulley I used a flat screwdriver as a lever to make the wire slide into the pulley. If you separate the winding drum from the motor practically you don't need a spring tensioner cause both springs will be compressed when you pass the last pulley while the drum will turn freely, making it easier. 

Edited by makymak
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3 hours ago, vindaloo said:

 

 

Let's see...... The plastic sliders broke twice on mine. So easy enough to fix, or is it <dark undertone to narration>?

 

The two springs need compressing to their fullest extent where the cables meet the winder mech. Some kits include the winder and have a metal brace to hold it all tight until you release it. I've bent coat hanger wire to compress the springs whilst bracing against the "ribs" on the winder mech. Even then, I needed mole grips to pull the cable to assemble into a new slider. I also couldn't do this with the metal window clamp on it.

 

Okay, haha. Maybe it'll be a nightmare then! I'll give it a go tomorrow if it doesn't work straight up I'll be ordering that £30 job as above!

 

3 hours ago, makymak said:

When replaced my fabia's broken plastic slider of the driver's side glass, I found that the only way to get the wires into place was to first attached their terminals to the fixing points of the new sliders/motor drum and then passed them to the pulleys. At the last pulley I used a flat screwdriver as a lever to make the wire slide into the pulley. If you separate the winding drum from the motor practically you don't need a spring tensioner cause both springs will be compressed when you pass the last pulley while the drum will turn freely, making it easier. 

 

Thanks! Will give it a go!

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Right. DONE. 

 

Attaching the wires was a PITA; however this was made harder by the fact I think I damaged the lock cable attachment, despite using your nail technique. So instead of ruining the lock too I left the ancillaries carrier attached to the door (as I couldn't remove the wiring loom) and did all the wire retrofit there. It was fiddly as hell, but eventually with some problem solving we got it to work. Needed 2 pairs of hands, and a third would have been useful. 

 

We broke the door lock indicator in the process of putting the carrier back on - the door lock was so brittle it just snapped the piece that it inserts into. Doesn't matter though, reassembled without a working indicator and window now working.

 

Source of the problem - a shattered plastic window carrier!

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