My latest RR result. And she didn't smoke too bad either, considering what she's usually like.

Latest figures are:

Engine Power (measured) 223.4bhp @ 76mph - 3604rpm

Wheel Power (measured) 203.1bhp @ 76mph - 3604rpm

Power losses (measured) 20.3bhp

Engine Power (corrected) - not sure exactly what this means? :confused: 219.1bhp

Torque (corrected) 355 lb/ft @ 3158rpm

Pressure was 999mBar and it was 11 deg C.

Graph looks sexy - Will try to get it up here. With peak power & torque coming in quote close together, it makes for a very nice power band.

That is amazing ! Good effort.

Nice figures:thumbup: ,guess its pretty rapid then

DevonUtopia - does your entire life revolve around your Skoda????:confused:

Do you have a job, family, life outside your vRS?:confused:

I've never known a man with so much time on his hands - you're always up to something with your motor!!

17000 plus posts....

vRS T minus 40 hours ten minutes and counting....

Dyno or Dynamometer results sheet' date=' and Correction Factors

Here is a subject that sounds complicated. Don't worry Its not! You look at your dynamometer print out and see that CF 0.9081 or CF 1.0973 number on your ! And its very important!

Basically what we want a dynamometer to do is give us the same result (say 100bhp) on the same engine every time we dynamometer test it! Because if you go away, fit some different parts, change jets, or whatever you want to compare the new result at a later time right? Otherwise the figures are useless!

Well here is the problem... You shove your you car / bike on the dynamometer Monday night... Its cool, say 10 degrees Centigrade. You do a run and it measures 100 BHP! Great!

Now you go away and do NOTHING to your car and return on Tuesday in the middle of the day. Its 25 degrees C and a lovely warm day! You now re dyno test your car, and guess what, It makes only 94 BHP. Is it broke? No! Its just breathing in warmer air which is less dense! So we need a formula that looks at the air temperature that your engine is breathing in and "CORRECTS" the power figures to a known standard temperature. Easy. Now, using this correction factor, whatever the air temperature your engine will always read the same 100 BHP.

But there is another small problem... On some days there is a also a "higher" or "lower" atmospheric pressure too! (Look at your barometer) So when the pressure is "high" your engine will make more power so the dyno shows your 100 BHP engine is now 104 BHP... So we now need another formula that corrects the measured power for atmospheric pressure variations too! So we use another "correction" so that your engine will now read 100 BHP regardless of both air temperature, or atmospheric pressures.

In addition Humidity makes a "very small" difference too! But this is usually ignored by most manufacturers. So we will too. It is worth mentioning though that humid air actually costs power, rather than the common belief that it helps! It doesn't. It replaces part of the air/oxygen in the atmosphere.

So provided that our new formulas (now lumped together and called correction factors) works as it should we should be able to read the same 100 BHP from our Corrected Dynamometer figures under all conditions. This means you can directly compare figures on different days and conditions & locations. (the pressure at the sea is much higher than if you live in the mountains!)

So your car will read 100BHP at the top of a high mountain, on a hot day when the pressure is low, as it would at sea level in winter on a high pressure day! At least that's the plan!

This pressure and temperature data has to be measured, and entered as figures, or sensed automatically depending on which dynamometer system we are using directly just before each "run" is made. If this is not done the data or graph will not be accurate!

Now this is the bit that's confusing people. It had to come!

There is more than one correction factor! None are perfect. All are a simplistic compromise. But its the best we have! In my own software, I have a choice of four different ones that are commonly used, and uncorrected for raw data or electric vehicles:

SAE-J1349 the one that seems to work best! And is used by lots of dyno companies as default.

DIN 70020 Also popular, and used by people who like bigger numbers! In a lot of conditions it gives figures a few percent higher than the rest.

EEC 80/1269

ISO 1585

Uncorrected

If you choose a run and display a power curve in my own dyno software you can choose from these 5 options to see how it effects the measured power. They are all different, but all are correct! This is where a lot of the "disagreements" about power figures arise!

See its not "that" painful!

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A word of warning! If you have a print out, that just says "corrected" throw it away. Its meaningless and most likely came from a cheap dodgy dyno, that was built by someone with no idea! I have seen lots of these, be warned! That was only the FIRST problem with the data!

If you call your dyno company up, and ask them "to what standard" their data is corrected to, and they do not know, HANG UP! Go somewhere else. If you are thinking of BUYING a dyno, or dynamometer the same thing applies, but this time run!

If they don't use any correction factor at all be really afraid! You are surrounded by a) IDIOTS or people who only test electric vehicles!

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YOU DON'T NEED TO READ THIS BIT!!!

Here is the ACTUAL formula, not that you really need to understand it for SAE J1349:

SAE J1349 JUN90, converted to pressure in mb, is:

[img']http://www.dynamometer.fsnet.co.uk/images/j1349.gif[/img]

where: cf = the dyno correction factor

Pd = the pressure of the dry air, mb

Tc = ambient temperature, deg C

I would check the barometer figures from that dyno too, 999mb is quite low, the south of the uk is currently experiencing 1010mb-1014mb, that would throw your reading out by a bit.

I know of a local dyno to me that manually inserts the atmos pressure and on purpose rejigs the figures to either read optomistically on his own tuned cars or pessamistically on a superior tuners cars.

Other than that sounds like she's quite healthy

Aye - she's healthy. Not sure if a couple of uses of diesel power plus in the fuel has helped a little?

Oh, and there were some "hunnies" there too - Video to follow.

Steve - you'll understand in 40 hours. I am starting a new full time job, but my car and briskoda are big passions of mine.

WOW!

Proper road warrior:thumbup:

Have you considered fitting launch control?

Or are diesels better at putting their power down than petrol's?

An excellent result on the dyno! Cool! I would love to have a ride in your Fabia!

A small video compilation of my run - about 6.5MB in size.

http://altarmoore.com/jason/DYNO%20APMOTORS.wmv

but my car and briskoda are big passions of mine.

hance the 18000 posts, eh jason

Jason,

It's looking better all the time, but the RR results are out by around 12bhp WHP and 20ft/lbs due to the crap Atmospheric pressure input.

Lot less smoke this time, fuel would be better with PP in it.

strip it out..... roll cage... then its a road warrior...

DevonUtopia - does your entire life revolve around your Skoda????:confused:

Do you have a job' date=' family, life outside your vRS?:confused:

I've never known a man with so much time on his hands - you're always up to something with your motor!!

17000 plus posts....[/quote']

Yeah most of those asking Ross questions about the conversion :P

Do you have a job' date=' family, life outside your vRS?:confused: [/quote']

it isn't a vRS.

just watched the video, i didn't see any honey's :confused: