Hello.. can anyone help please..

just noticed my heated wing mirrors 

both sides are not working!! 
the motor moves the mirrors!

but they won’t heat up!! 😢😢

Obvious question... you know they heat up in conjunction with switching on the heated rear window?

 

Edit - my error! The OP is correct - have been driving an Audi S1 since saying goodbye to the vRS. Doh!

Edited 16 October, 20196 yr by Lee

On my Fabia.. the switch also just heats up  just the mirrors.. well it use to!! 😢

I’ll check tomorrow if they heat up while the heated rear will is on!! 👍🏼
thx ... 

14 hours ago, Chris67 said:

Hello.. can anyone help please..

just noticed my heated wing mirrors 

both sides are not working!! 
the motor moves the mirrors!

but they won’t heat up!! 😢😢

 

It’s not uncommon for them to fail. Family’s T6 Caravelle has them, and they were left on for a while (30minutes) after they had heated up the mirrors. This caused the element to fail, and it needs new ones, so that may be the case on yours. 

I also know that the electricals in the door do sometimes go on 5j’s; went to look at a 10 plate Fabia 2 Combi pre-facelift to weigh it up against the 60 plate facelift Greenline II Combi that I was looking at. The prefacelift had the heated mirrors, but they didn’t work, the mirrors wouldn’t move electrically, and the power windows didn’t work.

13 hours ago, Lee said:

Obvious question... you know they heat up in conjunction with switching on the heated rear window?

 

Edit - my error! The OP is correct - have been driving an Audi S1 since saying goodbye to the vRS. Doh!

 

My Fabia’s mirrors do now work in conjunction with the heated rear window having enabled it via Carista.

Im assuming your turning the mirror switch all the way round to the heating position ?

 

 

If as mentioned, you are turning them on... Wires in the door loom bellow are the most likely cause of failure of all door mounted hardware, such as mirror motors, heaters, windows, central locking.  Also, check fuses are all intact.

 

Said wires are very thin and very often snap due to door open/closure. A new loom is around £80 so a little time soldering/twisting/connecting the old wires is worth the effort, depending on your ability!

 

A quick check suggests fuse 18 (5amp) Is the fuse for mirror heaters, separate from mirror motors, just to mis-lead!

Edited 18 October, 20196 yr by mrgf

Hmm I'm brand new here and my first post is sadly a tech one. I've got exactly the same problem on my 2012 Roomster. Fuse is ok and have checked the mirror resistance so bought a new switch. Nada, and the continuity across the old switch is fine when selected to mirror heat. Having worked out which pins run the heater there is no 12v supply to the switch. There is 12v from one terminal in the fuse box to earth and also across the terminals in the fuse box which seems a bit odd as that would suggest it's got a route to earth which wouldn't expect. Is it a simple electrical supply that I could bypass if needed, or even run a link from the 12v mirror motor supply and then make sure I don't motor the mirrors if the heater is on ?

15 hours ago, Merlindriver said:

Hmm I'm brand new here and my first post is sadly a tech one. I've got exactly the same problem on my 2012 Roomster. Fuse is ok and have checked the mirror resistance so bought a new switch. Nada, and the continuity across the old switch is fine when selected to mirror heat. Having worked out which pins run the heater there is no 12v supply to the switch. There is 12v from one terminal in the fuse box to earth and also across the terminals in the fuse box which seems a bit odd as that would suggest it's got a route to earth which wouldn't expect. Is it a simple electrical supply that I could bypass if needed, or even run a link from the 12v mirror motor supply and then make sure I don't motor the mirrors if the heater is on ?

 

I think what I meant to ask is if the wiring to the mirrors are stand-alone or somehow part of the can bus system?

Not part of the CAN bus as such, but the control and supply for the mirrors is from the onboard control unit which performs many tasks.

 

What year / engine is your Fabia ?

9 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

Not part of the CAN bus as such, but the control and supply for the mirrors is from the onboard control unit which performs many tasks.

 

What year / engine is your Fabia ?

It's actually a Roomster but same switch and fusebox layout as far as I can see so maybe the same electrical circuit?

 

 

It's a 1.6 diesel (CAYC) and car is 2012. Mirrors motor fine but the heaters don't work which today at 0600 was a pain.

After a little studying of wiring diagrams.......

 

Check / replace Fuse 18 (5A)  in Passenger compartment fusebox (one under steering wheel) as the heated side has a seperate supply for the heaters through the onboard control unit.

 

 

10 hours ago, UrbanPanzer said:

After a little studying of wiring diagrams.......

 

Check / replace Fuse 18 (5A)  in Passenger compartment fusebox (one under steering wheel) as the heated side has a seperate supply for the heaters through the onboard control unit.

 

 

Thanks but sadly the fuse was the first think I checked, even tried a different fuse but to no avail. If the supply runs through the onboard control unit what exactly does that do for the heaters - put them on a timer or something? I do need to get a manual - are the electronic ones from emanualonline any good?

On 27/10/2019 at 22:05, Merlindriver said:

There is 12v from one terminal in the fuse box to earth and also across the terminals in the fuse box which seems a bit odd as that would suggest it's got a route to earth which wouldn't expect. Is it a simple electrical supply that I could bypass if needed, or even run a link from the 12v mirror motor supply and then make sure I don't motor the mirrors if the heater is on ?

 

Something to be aware of when testing supply to heated mirrors is that they might not be enabled unless the engine is running (this caught me out a while back when testing them on my Polo). Testing with just ignition switched on (or without) is likely to be misleading.

 

erWin Skoda is the best source of wiring info. You have to register and pay a small fee for an hour's access, then you can download wiring info for any Skoda (or all of them if you have a fast connection!). Go in via the Individual vehicle information tab then drill down through 'repair info', model selection, into circuit diagrams until you get to what you want.

Edited 30 October, 20196 yr by Wino

26 minutes ago, Wino said:

 

Something to be aware of when testing supply to heated mirrors is that they might not be enabled unless the engine is running (this caught me out a while back when testing them on my Polo). Testing with just ignition switched on (or without) is likely to be misleading.

 

erWin Skoda is the best source of wiring info. You have to register and pay a small fee for an hour's access, then you can download wiring info for any Skoda (or all of them if you have a fast connection!). Go in via the Individual vehicle information tab then drill down through 'repair info', model selection, into circuit diagrams until you get to what you want.

Thanks Wino. I did the testing with the engine running and off and no difference but I'm hoping to attack the problem again this weekend. Thanks for the tip on erWin, I'll have a look

@Merlindriver I think on studying the switch bit of the diagrams, what you have is consistent with a breakage of the black/yellow wire between the switch and pin 9/28 of the connector at the A-pillar.

It's not a 12V supply as such, but is pulled to ground when the switch is in the heating position, causing the J519 control unit to switch the relevant relay inside to ON (if the engine is running). At first glance it looks like that wire has something to do with the mirror movement too, but on closer inspection, it appears not.

The diagram of the switch is a little confusing so I may have got this wrong, but well worth checking I think, knowing how fragile these wires seem to be.

 

Edited 30 October, 20196 yr by Wino

7 minutes ago, Wino said:

@Merlindriver I think on studying the switch bit of the diagrams, what you have is consistent with a breakage of the black/yellow wire between the switch and pin 9/28 of the connector at the A-pillar.

It's not a 12V supply as such, but is pulled to ground when the switch is in the heating position, causing the J519 control unit to switch the relevant relay inside to ON (if the engine is running). At first glance it looks like that wire has something to do with the mirror movement too, but on closer inspection, it appears not.

The diagram of the switch is a little confusing so I may have got this wrong, but well worth checking I think, knowing how fragile these wires seem to be.

 

Wino that is a really good steer. Not sure how to access the wiring at the door pillar but will find a way and check the continuity, and if needs be put a slave wire in. Of course from what you are saying it could be the J519 relay!

 

Things are so much easier on my old TVR. Terrible electrics but at least the switches either supply volts to the item or simple relay or just run it to earth,

Check whether when the switch is in the heating position, the switch pin that the black/yellow wire goes to does indeed get shorted to the pin that the brown wire goes to first.

If that is the case, and there is no voltage on the black/yellow wire pin of the loom connector when the connector is unplugged from the switch (do it with engine running just to be sure that it should be there), I think it's almost conclusive that the wire is broken, without having to even get into the bellows to eyeball it. You'll still need to get in there to repair it though!

Edited 30 October, 20196 yr by Wino

21 minutes ago, Wino said:

Check whether when the switch is in the heating position, the switch pin that the black/yellow wire goes to does indeed get shorted to the pin that the brown wire goes to first.

If that is the case, and there is no voltage on the black/yellow wire pin of the loom connector when the connector is unplugged from the switch (do it with engine running just to be sure that it should be there), I think it's almost conclusive that the wire is broken, without having to even get into the bellows to eyeball it. You'll still need to get in there to repair it though!

Great info, thanks. Its a job for the weekend when I have a bit more time and I can do it in daylight.

I agree in part with whats already been posted, but it "assumes" the heating elements are ok....... "if" the element in the mirror glass is open circuit, it will still give you nothing.

 

The elements on all heated mirrors can burn out, especially if like the fabia where its possible to leave them switched on as opposed to timed with the rear window.

 

If you remove the door trim, then find the 8 pin connector near the mirror switch and run a continuity test from pin 4 to pin 5, this will tell if the element in the glass is intact irrespective whether or not it is being supplied 12v when selected by the switch.

 

Diagram below for drivers side.

 

Also, "if" the yellow black wire is "intact" which as posted simply tells the onboard unit to switch them on, then with the switch in the heated position, Pin 4 of that connector "should" show + 12 volts also. Thinking about it, you could simply test for 12v at that pin with the heating switched on, "if" there is 12v, then the "system" is ok and the element is duff as the prior check will also tell you.

 

 

Edited 30 October, 20196 yr by UrbanPanzer

Urban Panzer that is a great wiring diagram. Shows how the heater switch is just a "trigger" and doesn't in itself supply any power to the mirror heaters (I think). The mirror elements are fine, resistance the same on each and one attached to a 12v battery heats up nicely. What is the pin numbering convention, or are they marked on the plug block?

14 hours ago, Merlindriver said:

Urban Panzer that is a great wiring diagram. Shows how the heater switch is just a "trigger" and doesn't in itself supply any power to the mirror heaters (I think). The mirror elements are fine, resistance the same on each and one attached to a 12v battery heats up nicely. What is the pin numbering convention, or are they marked on the plug block?

 

Yes thats right, the power is supplied to the onboard control unit via Fuse 18 (5A) to pin 64 (blue / black wire on connector 73 A (black)

It comes out of the onboard unit on connector 73 A (black) on the Red / black wire on Pin 38 which then goes to ---

Connector 28A Pin 13  which is the A pillar connector at the door bellows --

from there up to the 8 pin connector on mirror switch on Pin 4 as mentioned earlier.

 

The connectors are labelled with the Pin Numbers.

 

If you have tested the mirror elements and happy they are good, then really there can only be 4 options where the fault is --- this deals with Drivers door ONLY..

 

1.  The black / yellow wire at Pin 9 on door connector 28A is broken as Wino mentioned (this is signal wire from switch only to J519) connector 73 B (white) would explain BOTH sides not working

2. The black / red wire at Pin 13 on door connector 28A is broken, this is +12v supply to the elements "from" J519 (ONLY drivers side would not work)

3.  J519 onboard control unit itself is faulty (would expect potential other problems if this was the case, but always possible internal fault on that circuit alone as BOTH sides do not work)

4. There is NO output at Pin 38 on connector 73 A (black) from the Onboard control unit (fault no 3) as above, does seem possible as both do not work as they are spliced @ that connector (see last image)

 

Some more images to help maybe....

 

 

Edited 1 November, 20196 yr by UrbanPanzer

Blimey Urban, there is some great info there. Having looked closely and seen that the mirrors are fed independently from the control unit I am pretty certain now its the signal wire from the switch that's the problem. After the rugby and weather permitting it's tomorrow job.

Well at last, and now the frosty mornings are behind us (ha ha), I eventually had a lok at the wiring. True enough the black and yelow wire had broken and the thicker brown (which loks like the main supply) was down to its last few filaments - I'm surprised it was able to carry any current. It was a bit of a struggle getting enough loom out of the door to effect a repair but all done now and they warm up nicely.

Many thanks to Wino and Urban Panzer for your help 

Next job is to swap it for a nice shiney version

 

Edited 13 April, 20206 yr by Mickmartin

Does that still illuminate green ? or is it Red ? (VW) ?