I need to fit a resister to each of my rear clusters but the only way to do this will be on the wire loom directly there is no plug and play option.

 

Any idea on the best way to do this and has anyone else done it?

Most people use horrible quick splice scotchlock things 😕

 

Personally, I'd look to ID the black connector on the loom then buy both male/female ends with extra pins. That way you can create a small plug and play adaptor with sufficient wire to attach the load resistors to a solid metal surface to aid cooling them. The connector probably has a part number on it somewhere...

That's exactly what I want to do I hope that I can fit a single load resister for the complete cluster (1 each side). I will use bullet connection to create a plug and play  in line resister.

 

Its just what size resister should I use for all 4 bulbs per cluster and what wire from the loom should i cut into?

 

1 minute ago, langers2k said:

Most people use horrible quick splice scotchlock things 😕

 

Personally, I'd look to ID the black connector on the loom then buy both male/female ends with extra pins. That way you can create a small plug and play adaptor with sufficient wire to attach the load resistors to a solid metal surface to aid cooling them. The connector probably has a part number on it somewhere...

 

The resistor needs to be in parallel to the load so you can't use a single resistor for the entire cluster. You'll need one for each function that's been replaced by LED's...

 

You have just confused me I can use a single resister then you will need one for each function.

 

So does this mean I cant use just one resister for the complete cluster as they have 4 bulbs and all are LED so would that mean 4 resisters?

 

What cable should I cut into?

 

 

3 minutes ago, langers2k said:

The resistor needs to be in parallel to the load so you can't use a single resistor for the entire cluster. You'll need one for each function that's been replaced by LED's...

 

It would need five resistors per side, one for:

- reverse light

- indicator light

- tail/brake light

- tail/fog light

- capless W3W tail lights (assuming they've also been replaced by LEDs)

 

If I remember correctly, the brown wire is ground, check with a multimeter before starting! If so, you'd need resistors between:

- brown and blue (reverse?)

- brown and black with a white stripe (indicator?)

- brown and white with a black stripe (tail/brake?)

- brown and blue with a white strip (tail/fog?)

- brown and capless W3W tail lights (light purple with a dark purple stripe?)

 

You may also notice a quirk of the Octavia lighting. The tail/brake and tail/fog lights are dual filament bulbs but only the 21W filament in each are connected. The tail light brightness is achieved by PWM which may cause issues with your LED bulbs. PWM is pulse width modulation, basically turning the light on and off very quickly to lower it's brightness...

 

The 'correct' way to solve this is to add a 6th wire into the connector fed from the capless tail lights and use VCP/ODIS-e to fix the configuration.

5 per side 😲😲

 

I have to think about the best way to do this!!!!! Does anyone know of a plug and play option if that's avalible?

 

 

Yes 😂

 

 

@silver1011 sssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh smart ass. But you know what the more I think about it the more it make sense. But I will not give in yet!!!!!! 🤔  😂

 

1 minute ago, silver1011 said:

Yes 😂

 

 

 

What BCM do you have? Can you post a VCDS autoscan?

 

If it's new enough, it can probably be programmed as not to need any load resistors assuming the LED's are of decent quality. I think you have a 2010 car so it could be hit and miss...

I think its for cars 2012 onwards you can do this so I think its a no go for me. I don't have VCDS but I do have carista on my phone can that pick up the BCM info you need?

 

1 minute ago, langers2k said:

What BCM do you have? Can you post a VCDS autoscan?

 

If it's new enough, it can probably be programmed as not to need any load resistors assuming the LED's are of decent quality. I think you have a 2010 car so it could be hit and miss...

 

Yup, carista should be fine. just post all the information if gives you :)

 

Part numbers and software versions are most important.

Should the information be under Diagnose - Customize or Service?

 

6 minutes ago, langers2k said:

Yup, carista should be fine. just post all the information if gives you

 

Part numbers and software versions are most important.

 

@silver1011 If I go for the following LED units will I need to change anything via VCDS or is it just plug and play?

langers2k has fitted a set oof these too I believe, he has all the answers 👍

@langers2k Is that what you need?

 

Engine
Part #: 03L906023AG
Component: 1,6l R4 CR td
Coding: 00114016032500080000 (hex)
[No fault codes]

ABS
Part #: 1K0907379AK
Component: MK70 M MASR
Coding: 17665 (decimal)
[No fault codes]

Steering angle
[ECU not present]

Power steering
Part #: 1K0909144J
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 69
Coding: [none]
Fault codes:
03803 Steering Angle Sensor for Steering Aid: No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

Airbags
Part #: 1K0909605T
Component: Q4 AIRBAG VW8
Coding: 20788 (decimal)
[No fault codes]

Parking/steering assist
Part #: 1Z0919475B
Component: PARKHILFE 4K
Coding: 100001 (hex)
[No fault codes]

Instrument cluster
Part #: 1Z0920903G
Component: KOMBI
Coding: 410F00 (hex)
[No fault codes]

Immobilizer
Part #: 5K0953234
Component: IMMO
Coding: 000000 (hex)
[No fault codes]

Central electronics
Part #: 1K0937087H
Component: BCM PQ35 H+
Coding: 48180AB8B05BB1C04008008001008164432000AE626D8160640440000000 (hex)
Fault codes:
01520 Rain and Light Recognition Sensor (G397)

Body/convenience system
[ECU not present]

Driver's door
Part #: 1T0959701AF
Component: Tuer-SG
Coding: 758 (decimal)
[No fault codes]

Front passenger's door
Part #: 1T0959702S
Component: Tuer-SG
Coding: 758 (decimal)
[No fault codes]

Rear left door
Part #: 5K0959703A
Component: Tuer-SG
Coding: 144 (decimal)
[No fault codes]

Rear right door
Part #: 5K0959704A
Component: Tuer-SG
Coding: 144 (decimal)
[No fault codes]

Steering wheel
Part #: 1K0953549CQ
Component: J0527
Coding: 34 (decimal)
[No fault codes]

Heater & air conditioning
Part #: 3T0907044AR
Component: Climatronic
Coding: 0000000002 (hex)
[No fault codes]

Radio
Part #: 1Z0035156F
Component: BOLERO
Coding: 0D0004000001 (hex)
[No fault codes]

CAN network gateway
Part #: 1K0907530AD
Component: J533 Gateway
Coding: E9A07F06000202001303 (hex)
[No fault codes]

Yup, the BCM is 1K0937087H. I don't think I've tried to code one but at least this site suggests they support LEDs: https://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/bcm-ecu-relay-6/oem-1k0937087h-bcm-control-module-vw/

 

The OEM rear lights will also need the lighting configuration updating using VCP/ODIS-e. They also need one wiring change, taking the tail light power from the T10 capless bulbs to the 6th pin on the black connector. I made little adaptors so it involved no cutting or modification to the original loom.

 

If you're ever up this way, I'm happy to take a look. I've probably got a spare BCM if there are any issues with the H rev.

Thats interesting I guess I cant do this with VCDS?

 

Do you have any pictures of the connectors you made up?

 

 

9 minutes ago, langers2k said:

Yup, the BCM is 1K0937087H. I don't think I've tried to code one but at least this site suggests they support LEDs: https://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/bcm-ecu-relay-6/oem-1k0937087h-bcm-control-module-vw/

 

The OEM rear lights will also need the lighting configuration updating using VCP/ODIS-e. They also need one wiring change, taking the tail light power from the T10 capless bulbs to the 6th pin on the black connector. I made little adaptors so it involved no cutting or modification to the original loom.

 

If you're ever up this way, I'm happy to take a look. I've probably got a spare BCM if there are any issues with the H rev.

 

Correct, VCDS can not make changes directly to the lighting configuration. VCP or ODIS-e are the most common things used

 

As for the cables, they are super simple and look like these. It's basically the plastic T10 connectors from a dirt cheap LED and an appropriate crimp to fill in the empty hole on the 6 pin connector.

 

23 minutes ago, langers2k said:

 

As for the cables, they are super simple and look like these. It's basically the plastic T10 connectors from a dirt cheap LED and an appropriate crimp to fill in the empty hole on the 6 pin connector.

 

Interesting  I have 2 capsule bulbs on each cluster do you only have to take power from 1 on each side?

 

Yup, just one on each side.

@langers2k How long have you had your Chinese rear clusters? Had any problems?

I fitted them in November 2015 and I've done ~115k since, they are always turned on as I have set the tails lights to work as rear DRL.

 

One of the diodes (not an LED) failed causing some LED's not to work. After replacing the diode with a new one they've continued to work flawlessly.

@langers2k Out of interest if I can arrange for access to VCP/ODIS-e how easy is it to change the settings?

 

If the person using it knows what they are doing, it's a 5-10 minute job...

 

 

Assuming they have VCP, you can extract the lighting config as a bcm1 file which I can modify and send back. It would then need uploading to the car.

 

With ODIS-e, it's a more delicate process as it involves changing the lighting config by hand - it just means more care is needed.

 

Happy to help with either, just drop me a PM and I'll see what we can sort out.