Hi folks,

 

I'm faced with fitting a new inner tie-rod to the missus's mk1 Fabia imminently and was looking for guidance about one particular aspect.

The 'book' instructions insist on full removal of the rack from the car which seems extreme (won't be doing that); and then, with the thing out of the car they say that the main shaft must be counterheld against the loosening/re-tightening torques using a spanner on some (19mm AF?) flats which is present only on the left hand end:

 

 

 

It's the other end I'm replacing so I'm a little reluctant to bugger about with this as it means pulling the boot back on the side I'm not doing, and possibly needing another pair of hands to hang off a spanner somewhere in the deep dark recesses of the bay.

 

What's the level of risk of damage, does anyone reckon? Preferably people who've done the job without counterholding, and driven many happy miles thereafter. 

 

Cheers

 

 

EDIT: just thinking...the diagram shows a LHD rack, wonder if the flats are on the other side for a RHD one, i.e. a mirror image and the side I am actually doing? anyone know?

Edited 13 February, 20206 yr by Wino

I have done it without using a Stillson wrench, TBH I did not know of the requirement but having good vision back then if there were a spanner flat on the pinion end I would have used it.

 

Without there is a fair degree of deflection which works against you trying to undo a very tight joint, I dont think you risk breaking the pinion or the rack teeth but if you can find a flat at the end you are working on the job will be a lot easier, one at the other end will not help.

 

My problems were working under axle stands, the flex meant I needed a very long lever which in turn would hit the ground or floorpan before enough torque was imparted to break the joint, would not be a problem on a vehicle lift.

 

I have since learned from this forum that there are dedicated tools available to undo the joint.

 

Once I removed one from a breakers yard, removed my worn joint only to find they were incompatible, needing a CT test I did a bodge & crimped up the joint a bit on my hydraulic press, I had been hoping to dismantle & de-shim the joint but clearly that was lost by the bean counters in the last century.

 

Believe it or not the joint went on for another 5, maybe even 10 years (bad memory) without ever developing any play, they are rolled/pressed together in production & I think mine was always at the limit rather than having worn.

 

I mention it in case you find like me you need a plan B.

Happy news I think; my hunch about it being the right/'right' end for me on a RHD rack looks to be confirmed, according to the pictures here: https://www.usedecus.com/en/skoda/fabia-2010/skoda-fabia-2010-1-9-tdi-rhd-power-steering-rack-right-hand-drive-car-6q0423187-6q0423187/

 

Will photograph ours tomorrow/Sat if I remember mid-job.  

 

That makes life much easier, I think.  I've got one of these tools for the job, turned up yesterday and looks robust in the flesh, despite my doubts:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DR7YD7X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 

Well, I've not done this on a Skoda, but the diagram suggests you're breaking a lock-nutted joint? If so, then "good luck" if you can't counterhold someplace!

Nah, the bit you're seeing as a locknut is the part of the BJ that you undo or tighten the thing up with, see photo here for example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRW-Tie-Rod-Joints-Front-left-and-right-for-VOLKSWAGEN-POLO-JAR1061/293025582544?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+I&hash=item4439af8dd0:g:wpAAAOSw94tdPoP5

 

Edited 13 February, 20206 yr by Wino

Set about it this morning but things didn't turn out as expected.  That unwelcome lady turned up; Miss Diagnosis.

 

I'd convinced myself last Saturday that waggling the front right wheel at 3-9 o'clock gave me a clunk that sounded in or near the steering rack, and the other side didn't.  Sitting in the car with ignition off, jogging the wheel one way gave the same clunk, jogging it the other didn't.  I decided that this must be the inner balljoint of the right side tierod. It seemed like this was where the movement was when I was looking at it last weekend.

 

But then....

When I'd got the outer end of the right track rod off this morning, I couldn't feel the slightest play in the inner balljoint; and since I'd managed to bring the wrong side of replacement outer/end with me to work where I was working indoors, I thought I'd just put things back together and scratch my head a bit more rather than carry on with replacement of what seemed OK.

 

While both front wheels were off the ground I thought I'd try waggling both front wheels again, 3-9 o'clock, and now I was getting the noise on both sides, equally. It occurred to me that this might be wear in the rack itself, and that it might be less apparent with the steering off to one side or the other, away from the central 'normal' position.   This seemed to be the case.

 

Booked in for MOT Wednesday morning, think I'm just going to let it be and see what happens.

 

 

 

Edited 15 February, 20206 yr by Wino

Misdiagnosis confirmed this morning as MOT threw up nothing relating to any play in the steering.  I wonder if my mistake was waggling things with engine off, and that showing more movement in the PAS set-up than there would be with engine running and hydraulic fluid pressure up??

Just seen this and I suspect I have a worn inner tie rod. Had excessive wear on driver's side tyre and fitters didn't track it as they said there was excessive play. Sure enough a small but noticeable movement laterally but nothing top and bottom. Anyway couldn't see any movement wheel off so went for the cheap option of a new track rod end. Movement still there but inner rod did seem quite loose and holding the gaiter I could feel very slight movement. Before I commit to buying a 32mm crowsfoot spanner - mine are too small  - why can't it be done with an open ended spanner? On the first picture there looks to be ample room for one. Oh, and does it need to be a thin crowsfoot or will one like this do?

Edited 8 November, 20223 yr by Merlindriver

Aren't you going to have either firewall or engine in the way of a 32mm open-ended spanner?

Sure it's not excessive movement in a wishbone bush?

You can use a spanner, I've used a pair of stilsons on other cars with better access. The issue is being able to get in there with it, get enough leverage on it to crack the joint off, then get enough of a turn on to get the spanner on the next face. 

Not sure to be honest. I need to get someone to waggle the wheel while I feel around for movement but I'd have thought worn wishbone bushes would need more than a gentle rock of the wheel to show up.

 

Regarding undoing the nut I guess the advantage of a crowsfoot is being able to use a ratchet with its short throw between clicks. I have access to a 4-post lift which will make it easier I guess. 

3 minutes ago, Merlindriver said:

I'd have thought worn wishbone bushes would need more than a gentle rock of the wheel to show up

Depends on the state of the bush(es), I'd say.   

My friendly garage has agreed to lend me the tool. Is there a torque setting for the inner nut?

80Nm for track rod to rack, according to Skoda in their Fabia info. Doubt Roomster is going to differ.

Image mirrored compared to what you'll see, LHD shown/described.

 

That is great - thank you. What site is that from (if any)? I managed to find something for the cambelt change but didn't cover anything other than the engine. I could do with something that covers the rest of the mechanics. 

erWin.  You have to pay a small fee for an hour's access, but you can download stunning amounts in that time.

 

Alternatively, there's a good selection (for Mk1 Fabia) here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/files/file/76-mk1-fabia-workshop-manuals/