Hi, I need to replace the rear bushes an the subframe.Has anyone done this, can it be done on the car .? your thoughts please

 

I’ve not done this yet as I’m going to install a vrs rear beam on mine but. You’ll have to drop the rear beam down to change them.

 

shouldn't be too difficult as the rear beam is only attached by the rear dampers and then  where the bushes are. Someone who has done it before or who knows these cars better than me will correct me if I’m wrong I’m sure.

 

I would think it would be

- back end jacked up and supported

- wheels off

- unbolt the bottom of the dampers on each side 

- lower the arm and support

- unbolt the beam where the bushes are and lower the arm ensuring you don’t put strain on the brake pipes or handbrake cable

- remove old bushes

- install new bushes

- re-assemble

 

I reckon it’s a good 4 hours work

 

like i said though someone with more experience will be able to confirm or correct this. So please don’t take it as gospel.

I've changed to beam over to a second hand one I bought that had poly bushes in. Wasn't a bad job. Just get the car as high as possible and don't unbolt the brackets from the shell.

 

I didn't realise that the vrs beam was different, I thought it was just the hub carriers?

Edited 20 February, 20206 yr by StevesTruck

1 hour ago, StevesTruck said:

I didn't realise that the vrs beam was different, I thought it was just the hub carriers?

 

@StevesTruck I don’t think there is an actual difference in the beam it’s just easier to pick up a second hand beam from someone breaking a vrs with everything still attached refurb it and swap it. You know rather than pulling the beam to replace the 14/15 year old bushes then doing the hubs etc on the existing  one lol

Edited 20 February, 20206 yr by mikey362

Yep, definitely.

 

 

thanks for your comments, could I fit discs to the rear? at the same time

1 hour ago, challenger said:

Thanks for your comments, could I fit discs to the rear? at the same time

 

Yes that’s what we’re talking about, you’ll need all the parts. Hubs, discs, pads, callipers, carriers, new handbrake cable maybe more.

 

if you can get them all together, assembled as much as possible and ready to go on when you do it I’d say you’ll need either an entire day or stretch it over two. You’ll need to bleed the brakes after as well and adjust the new handbrake cable.

 

Unless you want the look of discs on the back as well unless you’ve got a vrs which should already have discs? Then it’s probably over kill for a standard Fabia. Not saying don’t do it if you want to just food for thought.

Just thinking that it would replace the non self adjusting rear brakes ,but maybe you are right, a lot of work for nothing. Removng the existing sub frame re bushing new shoks new rear shoes ad clean up the self adjusters .about 2 days I reckon . Thanks all

Challenger- rear brakes ( well drum brakes) are self adjusting, but my little local garage tells me that he's not always found that the self adjusters do what is said on tin. Add to that from my experience OEM brake shoes do not create a lot of brake dust, whilst those fitted by the fast fit lot seem to do. Perhaps it might be easier /cost effective to look at replacing the front discs /calipers with the VRS set up.

Drum brakes have been self-adjusting since the 1970's and provide a stronger handbrake than discs, it's a ridiculous amount of work for no real benefit because RICE.

14 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

1) Drum brakes have been self-adjusting since the 1970's

2) and provide a stronger handbrake than discs,

3)it's a ridiculous amount of work for no real benefit because RICE.

1. True
2. Tell, that to someone who's done an emergency stop in a hydropneumatic Citroen using just the handbrake, Oh wait, you did. And I got 0.66G retardation.

RICE? 🥴

38 minutes ago, J.R. said:

RICE? 🥴

Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancement 

 

race car looks without race car power.

 

nothing wrong with rice, can appreciate the time and effort it takes to do some of it so long as it’s done tastefully lol. 

Thanks for the input,I appreciate it all. The self adjusting system is simple enough ,but as always doe not work well. when I whip the sub frame out ,I will case harden the wedges and mirror polish them. that should hep. I have no problem with the brakes apart from the self adjusters 

 

1 hour ago, challenger said:

I will case harden the wedges and mirror polish them.

 

That will stop them working altogether - the wedges have teeth on them, which they need to work properly. My experience is that they work perfectly well when everything is in good condition.

 

Edited 25 February, 20206 yr by TMB

Fair comment I will see if I can replace the wedges then

 

1 hour ago, challenger said:

Fair comment I will see if I can replace the wedges then

 

 

I suggest you simply strip and clean the brakes and reassemble everything correctly, make sure the nylon glide pads are all present and correct, it is unusual for drum brakes to give trouble unless they've been bodged and aren't working properly.

Possibly changing the shoes and a good clean of the inside  might just get rid of problems. On mine, after a few years I found I'd got rivet problems on the lower of the shoes. But I'd had a quick fit place do a shoe change a few years ago, and last year I had a MOT fail on one side. Local garage reports lots of dust in side drum. Possibly preventing the self adjust from operating as my little local place suggested.

I found that a bit of tape/string kept the springs on the top level in place till all was assembled and ready for the drum to be offered up, but remember to remove any spring holders before drum before  replacement.

Drum adjustment should be self explanatory to any person with a modicum of engineering understanding. IF you do not comprehend, then find a garage ( not a fast fit place) that s competent to  do the work.

Edited 26 February, 20206 yr by VWD

Thanks for that, I think I can manage the rebuild. I will renew all at the same time .thanks again