So recently my DPF light has come on along with a check engine. Ive plugged it in and had a look and got the error code P0112 (long story). But no DPF error codes. 
 

when the dpf light came on which was probably after the 1000m since regen mark, I did a trip up the A1 at an average 2300 rpm in 4th doing 70. 16m there 16m back. 
 

That didn’t work, I’ve then not been able to drive it properly due to the quarantine but it was bugging me today so I took it down the A1. 40m there 40m back. Same again. Average 2300rpm in 4th at 70mph. 
 

Still no regen. Am I doing something wrong??
 

I’ve now plugged it into VAG DPF and seen that the last regen was done 1432m ago. 

 

Is the DPF warning light orange or red?

Just now, chimaera said:

Is the DPF warning light orange or red?

Orange

It's salvageable if you can get it to start a regen. By the looks of it you've done everything right to trigger one which suggests there's something up with the regen process itself, possibly sensors. At this point I think you may need to take it to a mechanic who is familiar with the setup to get a more detailed diagnosis. If you have the paid version of VAG DPF it might shed a little more light on the situation in the meantime.

There's no such thing as a red DPF light, they're always orange on Skoda's.

 

You need to scan the car with a code reader, there is something preventing the DPF from initiating a regeneration, as mentioned it's likely to be a faulty sensor.

 

If you keep driving the car, especially at high revs then all you're going to do is fill the DPF to a point it blocks and drops into limp-home mode.  You'll then not be able to clear it yourself.

 

DPF sensors are well documented as failing, if they aren't able to measure the pressures at either side of the DPF they won't allow it to regenerate.

 

 

 

 

7 hours ago, chimaera said:

It's salvageable if you can get it to start a regen. By the looks of it you've done everything right to trigger one which suggests there's something up with the regen process itself, possibly sensors. At this point I think you may need to take it to a mechanic who is familiar with the setup to get a more detailed diagnosis. If you have the paid version of VAG DPF it might shed a little more light on the situation in the meantime.

I’m going to go to a VAG dealer up the road, when I can. 
 

1 minute ago, silver1011 said:

There's no such thing as a red DPF light, they're always orange on Skoda's.

 

You need to scan the car with a code reader, there is something preventing the DPF from initiating a regeneration, as mentioned it's likely to be a faulty sensor.

 

If you keep driving the car, especially at high revs then all you're going to do is fill the DPF to a point it blocks and drops into limp-home mode.  You'll then not be able to clear it yourself.

 

DPF sensors are well documented as failing, if they aren't able to measure the pressures at either side of the DPF they won't allow it to regenerate.

 

 

 

 

The only code I’m getting is P0112. The IAT is reading at 130c, and doesn’t move. Nor below or above. I’m feeling that this could be responsible, I’m struggling to get a multimeter to check the harnest going to the MAF Meter.

Would I be right I’m doing do?

Its plausible this may be why your car is not initiating a regen so it would be a good idea to sort that first but don't drive it unless you are taking it somewhere for them to fix it.

I too would think it could be part of your issue, the G42 sensor is related to the DPF...

 

 

I'd be looking to replace the sensor ASAP.

1 hour ago, silver1011 said:

I too would think it could be part of your issue, the G42 sensor is related to the DPF...

 

 

I'd be looking to replace the sensor ASAP.

I did have it replaced. The main Thing is I took it back to IN&Out (don’t use them) and they told me to take it to a auto electrician as something electrical is out of range. Which is shocking in first place as they replaced a part that didn’t need replacing for £247. Of course they aren’t going to admit they shouldn’t have replaced it.

 

What site did you use for the error code symptoms?

1 minute ago, Cozza89 said:

What site did you use for the error code symptoms?

 

Here you are...

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes

What exactly did they replace?

 

What is your engine code?

Edited 29 March, 20206 yr by SuperbTWM

6 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

What exactly did they replace?

The whole MAF meter

I'm not 100% but the MAF does not measure intake temps

 

The IAT sensor is after the turbo and before the inlet manifold. It is sometimes built into the MAP sensor as one unit.

 

Very rare to get a wiring fault really, its nearly always the sensor that fails but it helps if you get the right one

 

 

Edited 29 March, 20206 yr by SuperbTWM

3 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

I'm not 100% but the MAF does not measure intake temps

 

The IAT sensor is after the turbo and before the inlet manifold. It is sometimes built into the MAP sensor as one unit.

 

Very rare to get a wiring fault really, its nearly always the sensor that fails but it helps if you get the right one

 

 

That is what I originally thought however it seems that with the crtdi they both come as one..or maybe that’s just what they’ve replaced it with

 

ive checked the housing and where the iat would usually be there is no 2 nuts where you would detach the IAT from the MAF meter

 

here’s what they replaced it with except you can’t really see the top as it’s upside down on the picture

https://m.buycarparts.co.uk/vemo/12247381

I'm not really sure where you are coming from, you shouldn't be anywhere near the MAF. Just to clarify again, it is likely to be a MAP/IAT sensor.

 

It would be really handy if you told us which engine you had or the engine code and we can show you where to look.

 

 

 

Edited 29 March, 20206 yr by SuperbTWM

1 minute ago, SuperbTWM said:

I'm not really sure where you are coming from, you shouldn't be anywhere near the MAF.

 

It would be really handy if you told us which engine you had or the engine code and we can show you where to look

 

Apologies mate

 

MK2 1.6 Fabia TDI CR

1 minute ago, Cozza89 said:

Apologies mate

 

MK2 1.6 Fabia TDI CR

 

What year is it?

 

Does it look like this under the bonnet? 

 

he likes to redline his engine!!!

On 29/03/2020 at 18:14, SuperbTWM said:

 

What year is it?

 

Does it look like this under the bonnet? 

 

It’s a 2012 reg
 

No, nothing like that I will try and find a diagram for you. Albeit even when I remove the wiring harnest the IAT temperature should drop to -30c ? As default?

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk2/power_unit/1.6/55;_66;_77_kw_tdi_cr_engine/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/diesel_direct_injection_system_fitting_locations_system_overview/overview_of_fitting_locations/

 

check out point 9. 

On 30/03/2020 at 00:37, UrbanPanzer said:

he likes to redline his engine!!!

Quite the opposite and to which I think got me into this mess 😂

 

I think there's probably a little confusion with acronyms here:

 

MAF = Mass AirFlow meter - it measures the quantity of air entering the intake and is found on or near the air filter housing, before the turbo.

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure - this is the pressure in the intake manifold after the turbo; the MAP sensor is usually found on the transfer pipe between the intercooler and the intake manifold; it's pretty common to find the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor integrated with the MAP sensor as the ECU needs both parameters to calculate fuelling.

It’s number 20 you want on that diagram. 
 

I thought the description of Intake Air Temperature Sensor G42 would give it away 😉

Edited 31 March, 20206 yr by SuperbTWM

39 minutes ago, chimaera said:

I think there's probably a little confusion with acronyms here:

 

MAF = Mass AirFlow meter - it measures the quantity of air entering the intake and is found on or near the air filter housing, before the turbo.

MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure - this is the pressure in the intake manifold after the turbo; the MAP sensor is usually found on the transfer pipe between the intercooler and the intake manifold; it's pretty common to find the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor integrated with the MAP sensor as the ECU needs both parameters to calculate fuelling.

You are completely right

 

15 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

It’s number 20 you want on that diagram. 
 

I thought the description of Intake Air Temperature Sensor G42 would give it away 😉

I know haha, I did the biggest facepalm after I linked you it and had a look myself 😂 promise I did look at it the first time 🙄

 

they were checking the MAF and so I suppose I’ve got completely wrong end of the stick

 

going to have a look when I can and see what’s happening there wether the wiring harnest has come loose or it’s broken 

We all have senior moments!

 

What probably led you down the wrong path is that the place you took it to have clearly had your pants down and changed a perfectly good part and missed the one that was faulty staring them in the face. 

On 31/03/2020 at 15:14, SuperbTWM said:

We all have senior moments!

 

What probably led you down the wrong path is that the place you took it to have clearly had your pants down and changed a perfectly good part and missed the one that was faulty staring them in the face. 

So as it happens, the new map sensor came today and I can confirm that is what was causing the code. I’ve unplugged the wiring harnest and plugged it into the new one and voila, normal IAT. 
 

Now I can’t get the 2 screws that bolts into the intake as they’ve rusted up. Inside and outside. 🧐

Better view here: