I spent the day swapping the rear pads and rotors on my 2015 1.4TSI Estate and thought I would put a little write up on here.

 

1KD Rear Brakes
Rear Rotor DBA2811 253mm
Rear Pads DB1449

Tools:
Wheel Chocks (block of wood or brick)
Jack
2x Jack Stands
Lug cap removal tool
Tire Iron
Brake Cleaner
11mm (optional), 13mm, 15mm Wrench
T30 Torx Key
Rubber Mallet or block of wood and small hammer
Wire Brush
Needle-Nose Pliers or socket adapter or piston pressing tool
Brake Bleeder hose and tray (optional)


1. Park car on a firm, level surface.
2. Chock the front wheels. Put an auto transmission in "Park", leave a manual in gear. Release the park brake.
3. Jack up rear of car slightly to take weight off rear wheel.
4. Remove lug caps (if present), then loosen the lugs.
5. Raise rear wheel completely off the ground, place jack stand under a strong, stable point, and lower car onto the stand. Ensure the car is stable.
6. Remove the lugs and the rear wheel.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 on the other side. Work on one side at a time. That way if you have any questions you can reference the other side.
8. Open the hood and loosen (but don't remove) the brake fluid reservoir cap. You want to leave the cap on top to prevent any debris or water from falling into the reservoir.
9. Check the fluid level. It should be about halfway between Min & Max. The level will rise as you install the new pads and you do not want it to overflow. If it is near Max, you may have to remove some with a clean, dry syringe or medicine dropper, or pump a small amount out of a bleed screw.
10. Spray the brake caliper down with brake cleaner to settle any dust. Do not use air. You don't want to risk breathing the dust.
11. Disconnect the park brake cable from the rear of the caliper by pressing the lever down and pulling the cable ball out of its cradle.
12. Use a 13mm wrench or socket, and a 15mm wrench to remove the bolt at the back of the two caliper sliders. The 15mm nut is quite narrow so it may be difficult to get the wrench fully on it, but as it loosens there will be more room.
13. Once the slider bolts have been removed you should be able to pull the caliper up (may have to wiggle it a little). Do not let the caliper fall or stress the rubber brake line. It could easily damage the line resulting in potential failure.
14. You can now remove the old brake pads. If you plan to reuse the old rotor, skip ahead to step 19.
15. To remove the rotor, use a T30 torx wrench to remove the small retainer screw. It should come loose easily.
16. Use a rubber mallet and/or block of wood and small hammer to gently tap the rotor off the hub. Using a hammer directly on the rotor could cause cracks resulting in failure if you plan to reuse to old rotors.
17. Once the rotor is loose, you should be able to pull it off without removing the caliper carrier.
18. Use brake cleaner and a wire brush to clean and smooth the hub face. A dirty face can result in a misaligned rotor resulting in warping, pulsing, and poor performance.
19. Now you need to retract the caliper piston back into the caliper to create enough clearance for the new, thicker pads. On front calipers you can usually just use a clamp to press it in, but on rear calipers you need to twist the piston clockwise while pressing it in. There are tools you can buy to make this faster and easier (a ratchet adaptor, or a special tool just for twisting and pressing rear pistons), but I just used a set of needle-nose pliers inserted into the two recesses of the caliper piston. It may take a while before the piston retracts (I have spent more than an hour on one piston). If it doesn't seem to be retracting, opening the bleed screw with an 11mm wrench can help relieve pressure (attach a length of hose draining into a pan to avoid a mess). I have also found that turning the piston counter-clockwise for half to a full turn can help free it up.
20. Now that the piston is retracted, you can install the new rotor and secure it with the T30 set screw.
21. Install the new pads into the caliper carrier firm against the rotor.
22. Slide the caliper over the pads (you may have to wiggle it a little or give it a thump). Line up the caliper and reinsert the caliper slide bolts. Tighten them firmly with the 13mm and 15mm wrench.
23. Reattach the hand brake cable.
24. Inspect your work against the other side to ensure everything is back in the right place. Spin the rotor to be sure it moves freely (light rubbing from the pads is fine).
25. If everything looks good, repeat steps 10-24 on the other side.
26. Now that you have new pads and rotors installed, apply the hand brake, mount the wheel back on the hub and tighten the lugs in a starfish pattern. Double check to be sure all the lugs are evenly tightened.
27. Jack the car up and remove the jack stands.
28. Take the car for a spin around the block. Accelerate to a moderate speed, check that traffic is clear, and brake firmly to a stop (not a panic stop, but firm). Do this a few times forward and a few times in reverse to bed the brakes while listening for grinding or squealing, and feeling for pulsation, shaking, or pulling.
29. Visually inspect the brakes to be sure everything is still in place and there are no signs of uneven braking.
30. Get yourself a beer or vice of your choice and bask in the glow of a job well done.

A couple notes I want to add:

 

This process is for a 2015 Octavia 1.4 TSI with the torsion beam rear end and 1KD 253mm rear brake. The process is likely very similar for cars with other brake packages, but there may be differences.

 

The code for your brake package can be found on a sticker likely placed in the front cover of the service manual.

 

Check the brake fluid level regularly while pressing the caliper piston in to be sure it doesn't overflow or that the level doesn't fall too low if you have opened the bleed screw.

Good write up. I changed the pads on mine last year.

Get yourself one of those caliper rewind tools they make it a thousand times easier.

 

 

Edited 21 June, 20206 yr by classic

Some versions may need removal of the caliper carrier to allow the disc to be removed. The 272mm disc for example. On our Yeti that needed a 14mm XZN spline tool (AKA triple square)

Very clear instructions. Glad I found a how to for 1kd because I wasn't sure if M14 XZN was mandatory or not.

 

 

If I can add some tips. Dont forget to clean and put some Grease if needed

Nice clear instructions & pictures.

I changed mine a few months ago, although I had to take off the rear caliper carrier bolts off to replace my discs, that was the hardest part of the job for me. Limited access & you need an m14 tool to take them off. 

On 11/09/2023 at 23:28, Phoenixboy said:

Nice clear instructions & pictures.

I changed mine a few months ago, although I had to take off the rear caliper carrier bolts off to replace my discs, that was the hardest part of the job for me. Limited access & you need an m14 tool to take them off. 

 

Which PR ?

Edited 20 November, 20232 yr by Digitql

I'll reply to myself. In my case, I tried to change the rotors. I could remove the old one but the new one doesn't pass. The wear helps... So I'm gonna buy one M14 XZN 😅

 

Edit ; the rotors are Brembo Prime 08.9502.11

Edited 20 November, 20232 yr by Digitql

It's me again. 

 

Repair manual says that we need to replace M14 bolts when removed. Seems normal but I don't find the exact vag ref for this part. 

 

On this video you can see @1:26 the size is about 36mm but on the internet is only found 65mm or more. 

 

I didn’t have to remove the carrier when I replaced my rear discs recently.

But regarding the bolts I would get them from a Skoda dealer.

 Found the problem....

I'va another problem now. My PR is 1KD but the disc isn't 😳

Sorry for the treble, this is well 1KD but the VAG ref is 5Q0 615 601 C.

 

 

Unless someone has put different rear brakes on your car than those it was built with, then the new discs are wrong. 
Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had trouble with brake parts before, including GSF insisting the pads they gave me were correct when they were physically too small. For that reason I tend to pay the premium for genuine parts.

 

 

Edited 21 November, 20232 yr by classic

So I'm replying to this thread for the record, so that others may learn from my experiences (that's if people search efficiently!). I actually used this thread to help me.

For context I changed my 1KD discs and pads over the past two weekends. They were original pads and discs for 65 plate and 83,000 miles. Based on my experiences from changing the front pair (3 or 4 years ago) I was ready for a fight. Unfortunately no photos because dirty hands and no time to waste!

My research already highlighted that the facelift version (after 2017 ish) of 1KD had different "depth" of disc hub (see photos someone above posted). The 1KD pre-facelift you can remove without removing the caliper carrier. I used ATE catelogue online to narrow down discs and pads - yes I splurged out on ATE, overkill on rears but there was an offer on.

I also purchased a "brake caliper repair kit TRW SP8980" (from autodoc) which came with slider pin grease sachet, piston seals, dust seal, caliper pin rubber boots. This was just in case that I found broken rubber bits. Turns out even after 11 years and 83K miles, they were all fine to reuse. But I replaced caliper pin boots because I couldn't be bothered to clean them out and it meant I could be rough with them. So this thread has already explained how to do it. My tips are:

Go to town with wire brush as you are dissassembling. Rust will be everywhere and it is an excellent opportunity to inspect suspension and behind the hub. Using drill attachments makes the job much quicker but use eye protection as the wire bristles will fly off. I mostly brushed around bolts and nuts. Not aiming for a shine, just removing loose flakes and leaving the rust patina. Put more effort into the brake pad carrier guides and the wheel hub before mounting new disc on.

One man brake bleed kit is about £8 from Halfords (the tube is most useful - you can use an empy milk bottle), especially when winding back the piston, no need to worry about resevoir overflowing. Also good opportunity to flush brake fluid.

The caliper rewind tool made the job fairly straightforward (I used Hilka 12700140) I really can't imagine doing this with needle nose pliers. I needed spanner to start it, but afterwards you can use the tool like a fat screwdriver. The hardest bit was holding the caliper steady and making sure not to twist the rubber dust bellow and having it concertina folded correctly. I used copious amounts of brake cleaner to make it "slip" easier and to clean gunk away. Also, pay attention when it is pressed all the way in because there is no "stop" to the rewind. I was rewinding for at least 5 minutes before I realised I was at the end.

The reason this took two weekends was because the old brake disc had seized strongly to the hub. I was mentally prepared for this after my experience with front pair but after 25 minutes of hammering / tapping I was scared of damaging the hub or fracturing the disc (undrivable!) so I gave in, put the new pads on so I could drive and ordered a brake disc puller for £55 from Amazon (I imagine cheaper ones are available) - I figured I would have to pay way more than that if I had to take it to a garage. Using this it takes about 5 minutes to remove disc with a satisfying "thunk". I used a bit of plywood to protect the hubcap and had to bend the metal dust shield to get the "claws" around the disc.

I also recommend using some rust converter and/or protector spray after you have finished brushing and before assembly. Jenolite is popular and is available on amazon.

This is an excellent time to adjust the handbrake slack, because you can see and remove the attachment to the caliper so you won't be fighting the tension (as much) as you adjust the nut.

The bottom caliper slide pin screw is easy to torque (35 Nm) but the top one is harder to access unless you have a shorter torque tool or use extension to get through the suspension coil. Or you can gauge by feel after doing the first one.

I used ceramic grease as anti-seize (I don't care if it's not the correct type of anti-seize, it'll be better than nothing) between the hub and the brake disc AND between the brake disc hub and the wheel.

I think that's it for now, the brakes haven't bedded in but if I have a serious failure I'll be sure to report back!

I'd think that the Ceramic grease will be okay, I only use that on the callipers, for the hub<>disc I use a spot of aluminium grease and add extra on the outer side - round about the disc<>hub joining point at-and the projecting part of the hub to made removing the alloy wheels easier next time.

It's normally safe enough to give the "barrel" of the old discs a few heavy whacks to release them from their "rust bond" to the hubs. I'd say that I normally intend to remove the discs from new cars and apply a very slight coat of probably aluminium grease to the hub face then refit the discs, if you plan in keeping a car for a few years and also doing your own service/repairs, you'll appreciate having made the effort to do this further down the line as the discs will be free to remove after taking the retaining screws out.

Edited 1 hour ago1 hr by rum4mo